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Suggest disconecting the battery. Then you can work on the problem. it is not clear if the issue is the key stuck in the start position in the iginition switch or if the starter motor is stuck (running) after the car starts. If it the starter motor is running... Time for a new starter. If it is the ignition switch, try
pushing the key in and turning back off. Still stuck? Try pulling pn the key and turning off. Either way, if it is the key, yime for a new ignition switch.
Leighjean,If it is stuck in 4-wheel drive, you have to do this.#1 With engine running,shift to neutral.#2 Switch the dash conrtol to A4D (or 2WD).#3 Push on the brake pedal.(This is important) You shuold be ready to go in A4D or 2 WD.
In this model year, the TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) gets stupid and does not wake up. Get one from a later model year from a salvage yard. The other possibility is a bad 4WD selector switch, try running the switch thru all the positions numerous times with the truck off. You may have to have a technician with a high end scan tool diagnose the problem.
try leaving the main gearshift in neutral and shut the car off , then try and move the lever to four wheel drive. or maybe try to switch it while slowly backing up. most likely since its hardly ever used it just might be stuck from non use. if neither of those ideas fix it. call the dodge dealership and ask to talk to a mechanic in the service department, they might be able to help, call them first before you take it in$$$..
I know this is a common enough problem since one in my family had the same. They had to replace the entire ignition switch.
Try a backup key, if you have one. If not, You can have a copy of yours made which MAY just have sharp enough edges to work again -however unlikely. Sometimes a few drops of oil can loosen a stuck lock too ;/ You can have a locksmith make a custom key for you, or get a new assembly with keys from a salvage yard etc.
Just to clarify, the "transmission" is not stuck in 4-Lo. It is the "transfer case" that is attached to the transmission that actually engages the 4-Hi and 4-Lo modes. To properly shift your vehicle into 4-Lo, you know that you have to shift the transmission into neutral and slow down to less than 5 mph. Once your vehicle slows down to this range, your can switch your transfer case into 4-Lo mode. Due to the inner workings of the transfer case, the actual shift into 4-Lo may take a few seconds to complete. This is normal and does not signify that there is an issue. All transfer cases that have 4-Lo mode will act this way regardless of the make or model. To make a long story short, to shift out of 4-Lo you must follow the same steps that you took to shift into 4-Lo, just in reverse order. Switch the transfer case to 4-Lo mode if it isn't already there. Slow down to less than 5 mph (your vehicle must be moving, though). Then, shift your car into 4-Hi or 2WD. Give your vehicle several seconds to complete the shift. The transfer case indicator light will flash until it is complete. When it does complete the shift into the new gear mode, you will most likely hear a "clunk" (the range sleeve inside the transfer case disengages from its mating spline) from under your car. Again, any transfer case with 4-Lo (regardless of make or model) will exhibit this same noise. This should help you get out of 4-Lo. It is good practice to shift your car into and out of 4-Lo at least a few times each year to keep all of the splines free of corrosion and build-up. Based on the age of your vehicle, your transfer case may also need a complete flush and some new transmission fluid. Hope this helps.
The noise from the front could be one of the drop links or one of the bottom ball joints amongst other things, and the noise from the back could indeed be a rear wheel bearing, and it could also be an underinflated tyre.