No brakes after changing brake caliper & bleeding system
Started having problems with brakes not working right ; & making noise on r. front wheel. After removing wheel , the rotor had been hot; & the caliper was stuck. So we put new brakes on & replaced the caliper. To bleed brakes , we put hose on bleeder & put it in a jar with brake fluid. Then pressed pedal ,released air . Done process until no air with each. Turned key to acc. & pressed pedal. Brake light was on , then we done the back ones. The light went off. Started truck , shifted out of park "NO BRAKES" , hit pole.Still sitting there. What do we do ? Thank You
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Re: no brakes after changing brake caliper & bleeding...
Sounds like you still have air in your brake lines. Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Then bleed again. Bleed the trouble side first, meaning right side, then go to front left, back left then back right, make sure that your brake fluid is also full
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You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.
The first thing is to make sure the caliper piston is all the way in, the caliper then slides over the brake pads and bolts on, make sure you have the correct caliper on the right side, the way to know this is when caliper is on the little bleeder screw should be on the top, if it is on the bottom then wrong caliper, try the other one,
After caliper is on you will then need to bleed the brake system, This all depends on what happened, if the brake fluid did not all leak out and caliper was just bad then before removing brake hose off old caliper pinch rubber brake line with a pair of needle nose grips or there is a line crip tool that crips hose to avoid fluid from leaking out. this makes bleeding easier , other wise you will need to make sure fluid is full and start at the right rear wheel bleeding and move to left rear then right frt and last left front, you will need to keep an eye on the level of brake fluid and add as need to keep it from going empty, you will need some one to pump and hold brake while you bleed them, pump pedal three times and hold down while you open bleeder screw, this is to be done to every wheel about four to five time to make sure all air is out . good day. note if pedal feels low bleed again wont hurt anything just a little more fluid lost.
Hello, There are scanners made for the ABS system. There is valving inside the ABS unit which routes the brake fluid to the Calipers. It may be not so much that the right wheel is grabbing, but the left wheel is not braking.
There are also different methods to bleed the brakes. Some people like to pump them, some have pressure bleeders, some gravity bleed. I use a Vacuum bleed which seems to work good for me.
With a Vacuum bleed I can tell if one wheel is not drawing fluid or seems clogged. I just use the handheld Vacuum pump with the bleed cup attachment.
You should be able to jack the front up and have a helper pump the brake and spin the front wheels by hand. The action on the left and right side should be similar.
Before you go to use an ABS scanner, disconnect the ABS plug-ins and check for corrosion on the pins. Use a little WD40 or Electrical cleaner on the connections and then reconnect them and try it.
Remember to follow the pattern of bleeding the longest brakeline first. Usually the drivers front is the shortest line. All scanners are not equal, only the more expensive units have the ABS test function.
Good Luck with this, would like to know what finally cured it.
If you replaced the calipers and the brake pedal is still soft the most common issue is air in the system. Check master cylinder and fill if needed, make sure all lines to calipers are tight and no apparent leaks, have a helper pump the brake a few times and press down holding in the down position (to the floor). At that time loosen the bleeder screw on the caliper releasing the fluid and air in the lines. A rag is recommended to cover floor. Do this on all calipers that were replaced a few times one at a time untill all air bubbles are not present, a clean flow of fluid . Make sure to have x-tra brake fluid on hand and check the master cylinder periodically (fill if low) and proceed with the bleeding process. If you allow the master cylinder to go dry and **** air the process of bleeding the brakes will have to be started all over again, so keep master cylinder level full after a few cracks of the bleeder. best of sucess to you !
Proper way is to bleed the entire system. IF your master cylinder DID NOT run lut of fluid then you can get by with just bleedign the one caliper you replaced. Otherwise you need to make sure the master cylinder stays full and start at the furthest away wheel, generally the rear right. then do the rear left. then if you have ABS, the abs module. then the front right and finally the front left. DO NOT re-use any brake fluid.
Bleeding procedure: use enough tubing to route the fluid into a suitable container. OPEN the bleed valve and have someone press the brake pedal. While they hold the pedal down, close the valve. Let off the brake pedal and do it as many times as needed to remove all the air. Check the master cylinder often to make sure it has fluid.
DId you bleed the system after you changed the caliper? If the Master cylinder lost it's fluid while you were changing the caliper, then there is air in the system and you need to bleed the entire system. start with the REAR RIGHT, then the REAR LEFT and then the FRONT RIGHT and last the FRONT LEFT. make sure the master cylinder NEVER runs low on fluid and DO NOT re-use any fluid that you get out of the calipers.
make sure brake hose not twisted. also possible shield from behind rotor rubbing its bolted behind hub & knuckle also check & make sure the metal shim for brake lining ears is not rubbing on rotor on the center edge. also sometime s there is a difference on inboard & outboard pads there is a dimple you may have switched. also with the wheel off & caliper mounted to knuckle you should be able to move in & out by hand if pins are good.
you might have a froze caliper piston, he is asking for all of that because whenever you change a caliper out you dont just want to change the caliper but do the brake job while you are there because more than likely the rest of your brakes are worn as well and if you just do the caliper you will damage you brakes more because of uneven wear sometimes a caliper gets locked up from extreme wear on pads past limit, he is actually saving you money in the long run. now as far as price it doesnt take much to change a caliper out, if you pinch off the line hooking directly to that caliper and unhook it along with the two bolts, all you have to do is put the new one in and pump the brakes back up and then bleed them to ensure all air is out of brake system, and depending on make and model, bleed them starting from furthest wheel from master cylinder....in other words you should be able to find a better price cheaper considering they want to replace the rotors instead of resurfacing them so that is alot less time to just replace them it is merily just parts changing, I hope i could help
Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.
ok if it's both now then it may be another issue. does that vehicle have abs brakes ?
and yes they are sort of connected in a way... by hydaulic fluid (brake fluid) the thing is when one wheel develops a fluid loss instead of complete brake loss you would still have brakes in two wheels... diagonally across from each other.
i'm not questioning your husbands work... but did he bleed the air from the the system when he changed brake lines ?