I have replaced my fuel pump in my 99 suburban 2 times in the last month. After a 100 or so miles on my second pump, it decided not to work. Is it the fuel pump or possibly something else. I cant hear it turn on when you turn the key like I normally can. I have also replaced the relay switch.
I had the same problem with my 99 suburban. There was a memo sent out by GM to all of the service shops that tell them when you replace the fuel pump or just desconnect it you need to replace the pigtail wiring harness that connects to the pump or it will burn up the new pump. I went through 3 pumps before I found this out after I replace the pigtail it fixed the problem.
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Re: 1999 gmc suburban fuel pump
I have to ask this, did you chg. the fuel filter when you chg. the pump? its a important part of the fuel dilivery system, when they plug the pump works harder and shortens pump life, even with in a 100 mi. Also is the pump from g.m. or aftermarket? There are different manufactures that make the pumps some good some bad. Also the pump has to be submerged in gas in order to keep cool, if you run around with less than a quarter tank alot, that will burn up the pump too.
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I have a 99 GmC Suburban, an it had the same problem, I replaced the fuel filter, still had same problem, then I replaced the fuel pump, that fixed the problem for one year, I had to replace it again, this makes my third replacement, the first two pumps mad a whistling sound all the time, the last pump did not sound at all it seems the pump was improved, also came with a new and better connector.hope this helps...
I the fuses and relays are good for the pump it could be a bad pump especialy if you was having starting problems make sure you have power to the pump. Also do this before changing pump.
Put your key in turn it on dont start wait 10 mins remove key wait 10 seconds repeat this a total of 3 times. If that dont work try a different key do the same thing. This relearns your key to the ignition it started with Gm cars and trucks from 1999 to to 2006. It is a big problem but there is no recall that I know of. If that dont work a dealer needs to probably replace and reprogram your ignition switch and keys
It sounds like the fuel filter may have reached it life time and needs to be replaced. The fuel filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles if not once every year to ensure that the fuel system is running 100%. A dirty fuel filter is the #1 cause of fuel pump failure due to extra heat created to push the gas to the fuel injectors, the other cause is running the gas tank less then 1/4. It's the gas that keep the fuel pump cool and not running hot.
Start with the simple and replace the fuel filter which should be located On all C/K's of this body-type 88-98, the fuel filter is located under the driver's side door inside the frame rail near the crossmember that supports the tail of the transmission. Replace it with AC Delco part GF-626, FRAM part G3727, or other comparable brand corresponding metal bodied filter. You should use a flare-nut wrench for the line fitting and one for the filter fitting. I'm not sure of the size needed for the filter, but the line should be 5/8" For SFI engines ('96 and later) you need to bleed off the pressure in the line. Locate the pressure test port on the fuel rail under the hood, remove the cap, press valve to relieve line pressure and recap valve. If ground clearance is not high enough to get under vehicle and work, raise it with jack and rest frame on jack stands. Caution: Fuel in lines and filter will run out once fittings are undone. Use fuel safe container to catch fuel spill. Take wrenches and hold filter from rotating, while loosening line fittings. Remove Filter from bracket by sliding and manipulating fuel lines for clearance, and slide filter out of bracket. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Tighten fittings snugly. Reconnect battery, turn ignition on (do not start). Pump will make brief whirring sound - less than 5 seconds. Check for leaks. No leaks - good. Now you can drive again. Hope that helps, keep me posted. Glad to know you got your truck running 100% again soon.
I believe you have a fuel regulator weak or dirty injectors.
Try turning the key to the "on" position ( do not try and start) wait until fuel pump stops running (3-5 seconds or so ), turn the key off and immediatly repeat for 3 cycles. On the 4th key rotation, start the vehicle. Does it seem to start up faster?
If so, the regulator is weak, however, the fuel pump does have a check valve in it to prevent fuel from leaking back into the pump and maintain line pressure.
Try the diagnostic proceedure above first and we can go from there.
Good luck, let me know.
When you turn the key on listen for the fuel pump to run for 3 seconds, its the "prime" function..
You will have to listen for this at the fuel fill inlet tube..it will hummm..
I am 99% sure your fuel pump has burnt up though.. its common with those... remember when you buy replacement parts at Oreilly or Autozone ect, you pay for what ya get.. buy the more expensive one, and also in the future never let your gas get below 1/4 tank.. that is what keeps the fuel pump cooled...
sounds like fuel pump pressure. I had the same thing happen to me in a Lincoln mark VII and the electrical connection was shorting out in the fuel pump. I changed the fuel pump..Returned under warranty) put the new one on with filter and had no problem with it.
On the 1999 - 2000 5.7 vortec engines the distributor gears wear causing the timing to change 2 or more degrees. The ecm is designed to shut down at 2 or more degreedifference. This is in a GM bulletin that recommends replacement at 160k miles. Mine went out at 150k miles. Very similar driving symtoms until it quit running. Both cam sensor codes were set on mine though, not the crank sensor.