Question about 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cabs

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Loose steering ford f350 super duty; besides drag link and center link, what other tie rods on driver and passenger side do i need to replace for loose steering

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  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    I replaced the tie rods and still have a problem with slack in the steering

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Idler arm, pitmen arm, and tie rod ends, ball joints.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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I have loose tie rod ends on both the right and left side of a ford 1999 expedition. On the passenger side the bottom bolt is missing completely. Do I need to replae both with a whole new assembly?


If the tie rods are just loose,you replace the bolts

Obviously if the end joint or brg is worn & loose you replace
them. (not the entire arm,just the joint)

You can replace the bolt or the tie rods yourself,
then have the front aligned within a few days as the
toe will be off.

I assume your talking outer ties rod ends,
not inner --- inside the steering rack boots!!

The inner joint does require the complete, what
looks like a rod or arm to be replaced

Apr 26, 2011 | 1999 Ford Expedition

4 Answers

HOW TO REDUCE EXCESSIVE PLAY IN STEERING WHEEL


There is an adjustment its on top of the steering box there is a nut you need to lossen with a stud with a sloted head coming throught it lossen the nut then screw the slotted stun in a turn or so tighten the nut and this will cut down steering wheel playto like new but don;t over do it you should have an inch of free play side to side

Nov 19, 2010 | 1995 Ford F350

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

Steering is loose, lots of play in steering wheel


you need to do what i call a dry check i do before performing an alignment have someone sit in truck and shift steering wheel from side to side lightly while you look at steering components check for loose pitman arm,drag link if used inner tie rods outer tie rods or excessive play in steering box then jack up each front wheel and check upper and lower ball joints

Mar 18, 2010 | 1992 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

2000 F350 4x4. Has a 6 or 8 in lift not sure, just bought it used with stock tires. The steering is loose, i can turn the steering wheel about 4 or 5 inches and tires wont turn. Tie rods and steering...


Look at steering shaft movement and compare to pittman arm movement. (input vs output on steering gear) If you have excess input with little output replace the steering gear box

Nov 19, 2009 | 2000 Ford F350 Super Duty Super Cab

2 Answers

FRONT END HOBBLE OUT OF CONTROL WHEN HITTING ROUGH ROAD


You probably have a loose front end. Check your tie rods and ball joints, also your wheel bearings and shocks. Shocks play a major part in how the front end handles on a rough road, as do worn out springs. If you determine something is loose in the front end, fix it immediately! I always consider front end problems to be safety issues.

Nov 13, 2009 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

1 Answer

Front end sounds like snapping rubberbands when turning wheel


sounds like tie rod ends with the shaking.check struts and sway bar links on the snapping. hope this helps you.

Jun 29, 2009 | 2002 Ford F350 Super Duty DRW Reg. Cab

3 Answers

1997 ford f250 steering problem


Check the tie rod, tie rod ends, and ball joints for excessive play. Jack up the front on either side and have a helper push and pull on the top or bottom of the tire. Watch the area where the hub pivots on the axle. if both sides check out. with the truck on the ground, have the helper turn the steeribg wheel back and forth about a half turn with the key off. Look for loose outer tie rod ends, and inner tie rod ends.
F-250 4x4 steering componants are pretty basic, If your unsure what to look for then take it to someone that knows how to fix it. Correctly. If you replaced any of the joints. It would be in your best interest to get it alighned.

Oct 24, 2008 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

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