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Re: How to remove OEM accessories
Well go to wal-mart get some goo gone very carefully with a razor get under the adhesive apply goo gone as it lets go work slowly with razor being careful of the paint continue until removed the use goo gone to remove remaining adhesive use a little polishing compound then apply wax
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I suggest you keep touching in the spots and building up the level over time until it is slightly proud of the surrounding paintwork. When fully hardened the surface of the spot should be flatted with a small block. I use the end of a short piece of 3/8 or 1/2 inch wooden dowel with a circle of fine abrasive paper glued to it. I sand wet and begin with 600 grit and finish with 1000 or 1200 grit. Once the area is flush it can then be polished with a polishing compound such as farecla and finished with T-cut.
A coat or two of lacquer can be applied or a few coats of hard wax polish.
Possibly gasoline. It will not hurt an OEM finish or a good repaint. It may soften the tar so it can be wiped off. Then a good wax job helps to keep stuff from sticking again and protects the paint/clear coat.
I have scraped/chipped off stuck on stuff with a razor blade without doing damage before, but I have had years of experience at it.
I would not recomend rubbing compound, at least to start with. While the Volkswagens have a good amount of paint on them (at least past VW's did). When you're starting with a lump of tar, you could go through the paint that is not covered by it before the tar is removed.
Knowing how to paint a Jeep in camo patterns means you can hide your Jeep in the woods, marshy
areas or in open fields without it being easily seen. Using Mossy Oak's
Shadow Grass pattern, paint your Jeep with natural-looking shadows and
grass blades. The 3-D look of this pattern allows you to easily hide
your Jeep from water fowl, doves, deer and big game.
Things You'll Need:
Sandpaper (120 and 800 grit)
Wax and grease remover
Automotive paint (black, gray, light tan and brown)
Automotive clear coat
Sand the surface of the Jeep with 120-grit sandpaper until the
surface is dull. You can use a dual-action sander for this step to
speed the process. This removes the top clear coat and prepares the
surface for primer. Primer won't stick to a shiny surface.
off areas of the Jeep that won't be painted, such as the windows, tires
and passenger area of the Jeep. Wipe the surface with wax and grease
remover and a lint-free towel.
primer on the Jeep in three thin coats. Allow each coat to dry
completely. Once the primer is dry, use 800-grit sandpaper to sand the
top layer of primer until smooth. This leaves a smooth surface for the
paint. Wipe again with wax and grease remover and a lint-free towel.
a thin base coat of gray on the Jeep. Cover all of the primered areas
on the Jeep so that no primer can be seen. Allow the paint to dry.
over the Jeep with brown paint, spraying small areas of brown paint in
no particular pattern. The finished effect should look like the Jeep is
equally painted gray and tan. Hold the first stencil against the Jeep
and use black paint to fill it in. Move the stencil over and paint
again. Start at the front of the Jeep and work towards the rear.
on to the next stencil and use light tan paint to spray the grass
pattern. The grass should start at the bottom of the Jeep and reach up
towards the top. For longer grass, don't spray the tops of the grass
but instead move the pattern up, spray the stems longer and then spray
the tops, making the grass stems long. Repeat this around the Jeep and
across the hood. Go back over the grass stems with black paint, lightly
spraying a few of the stems to give them a shadow look.
by spraying three coats of clear coat paint onto the painted areas of
the Jeep. This protects the paint from UV rays and keep the camo
pattern looking good.
Tips & Warnings
Paint is best applied using a paint spray gun and air compressor, but canned spray paint will work.
Never sand or spray primer or paint without using a painter's respirator mask.
Take your car to an accessory shop and they would neatly remove the radio without damaging the orignal cables. You would also get the new pins installed to the original car wires which can fit your after market system
First Wash the area, than take a dremel and with the wire wheel @ high speed, grind off the bistering and feather as best into good paint. Next rough up the area with some 100 grit sand paper. Use body filler (bondo 2 part filler) and smooth over with plastic blade. When dried work with 220 grit sand paper till you achieve the lines you want. spray cover with primer and apply touch up paint(Dealer has the best matchs) in coats. When happy with color use a 400 grit wet sandpaper to get a highly smooth finish and when dried cover with a clear coat finish.(Auto part stores). Buff when that dries and I guarantee thats the cheapest easiest d-i-y- fix you can get.
The best way to fix the hole is to weld them closed, and then do the body and paint work.
Since it is over the engine, there is a lot of heat. If you just use body filler, it would pop out in a fairly short period of time.
The same thing could happen fron opening and closing the hood.
The other options are, replace the hood with a new or used one.
Or find a different hood scoop that would hide the marks from the one you have on there.