Car developed a knocking noise under the dash.. on further investigation it goes away when you turn on the recycled air button but returns as soon as you go back to fresh... took the glove box out and the noise is coming from the big cylinder thing whish i beleive is the air dryer?? any advice apreciated as to how to get this unit out..
2 fixes - read on - one quick and one long and hard
(little tip - take pics (camera phone) rather than try and remember how it should all go back together)
the knocking is a motor and gears that move the fresh air/recycle flap - it is up behind the dashboard behind the glovebox
the problem is that the gears wear and become misaligned
the flap then can not open fully, its doesnt reach its end stop which switches the motor off
so the motor keeps going the and the gears keep clicking over
the big cylindrical thing you are seeing is the blower motor - it should have a red and a black wire going to it
1. quick fix first
remove the wires to the blower motor
undo the 3 brass coloured cross head screw from around the blower motor
remove the blow motor and fan
turn on the ignition and put the air flow to fresh air (i.e not recycle)
the knocking should start
lay on your back with your head i the footwell
with torch and hands locate the motor/gears that are knocking
find the wires to the motor and remove or cut them (if cutting turn the ignition off first !!!)
make sure the flap is in the open position, tape,jam or wire it open (who uses the recycle position anyway ??)
2. long hard fix
remove the blower motor as described above
this leaves the fan casing
from the engine bay remove the plastic cover from the top where the windsceen wiper motor is (just below the windscreen)
depending on model you may have the engine management CPU on the right handside - this may need removing
on the right hand side there will be 3 (maybe 4) bolts just above where the fan housing is
undo these - note i have seen these with the bolt head in side the car and some with the bolt head on the engine side - dont know why ???
if they are inside the car - you need to remove air trunking, repostion wires and get a long thin socket extension and some flexible bit to be able to get a socket on the head.
once all this is out - locate the motor/gear making the noise (as above)
remove the motor wire and after removing any more obstructing object remove the motor and gears- you will need to be very flexible and have a good range of flexi and rightangle drive socket bits
now all you need to do is purchase the new gears (if peugeot have any) rebuild it all and refit, then put everything back as you found it
shouldnt take more than a day or two, or a finger or two
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Hi Heather , so who did the tune up ? By all these codes it mustn't run very well. What engine does yours have 2.0 l- 2.2 l - 2.4 l ?
P0128 coolant sensor
An engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor monitors the temperature of the coolant. This input is used by the powertrain control module (PCM) for engine control and as an enabling criteria for some diagnostics.
P0326 knock sensor
The knock sensor (KS) system enables the powertrain control module (PCM) to control the ignition timing for the best possible performance while protecting the engine from potentially damaging levels of detonation. The KS is located on the intake side of the engine block. The KS produces an AC voltage signal that varies depending on the vibration level during engine operation. The PCM adjusts the spark timing based on the amplitude and the frequency of the KS signal. The PCM receives the KS signal through a signal circuit. The KS ground is supplied by the PCM through a low reference circuit. The PCM learns a minimum KS noise level at idle and uses calibrated values for the rest of the RPM range. The PCM should monitor a normal KS signal within the noise channel. When the PCM detects a KS signal that varies outside of the noise channel, the PCM will retard the spark timing until the knock goes away. If the PCM is operating on large amounts of spark retard and is unable to eliminate the knock, DTC P0326 will set.
DTC P0411 : Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Incorrect Air Flow Detected
This DTC tests for undesired intake manifold vacuum flow to the evaporative emission (EVAP) system. The control module seals the EVAP system by commanding the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve OFF and the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve ON. The control module monitors the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor to determine if a vacuum is being drawn on the EVAP system. If vacuum in the EVAP system is more than a predetermined value within a predetermined time, this DTC sets.
The commanded throttle position is compared to the actual throttle position based on accelerator pedal position (APP) and possibly other limiting factors. Both values should be within a calibrated range of each other. The engine control module (ECM) continuously monitors the commanded and actual throttle positions. This DTC sets if the values are greater than the calibrated range.
The engine control module (ECM) uses information from the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor and the ignition control (IC) module to determine when an engine misfire is occurring. By monitoring variations in the crankshaft rotation speed for each cylinder, the ECM is able to detect individual misfire events. A misfire rate that is high enough can cause the 3-way catalytic converter (TWC) to overheat under certain driving conditions. The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) will flash ON and OFF when the conditions for TWC overheating are present. If the ECM detects a misfire rate sufficient to cause emission levels to exceed mandated standards, DTC P0300 will set.
Did you all have a lot of stuff disconnected ? What all got replaced ? What would like to know ?
recirculate air flap by the sound of it ,,,,can be expensive repair ,if you can get to it wedge it open with a ciggy packet ,sorry i have no idea where it is as never seen one but i do this often with renaults which seem to develop this fault at regualr intervals
Try starting the truck so it makes the noise. Then switch the air control to "fresh". If noise stops, it is probably the motor that closes flap to recycle the cab air. It would be found under the dash, under the glove box, & would need to be replaced.
I have the same problem i think. The noise is something to do with the air con inlet gate??? Q. is there a fuse to isolate this as the position of the problemis above the glove box and can only be accessed with the dash board out and that would be very expensive.
sounds like the blend door is hanging up or is broken look under the dash toward the center of the car while someone is moving the switch you should see it move or get caught on something bent or broken make sure you check both sides if you have dual climate control
The DRL stands for daytime running lights. There is an electronic module that controls the operation of this that is located under the dash, which is probably where your noise is coming from. The noise goes away when you turn your headlights on because the DRL will disengage. I have replaced these before on civics and it should cure your problem. When ordering your part ask for a "daytime running light module". Hope this helps.
if it goes away when you turn the a/c on its the a/c clutch plate that is dragging and when you turn it on its pulled into the the a/c compressor and is turning all the time that's why noise goes away,you have to replace the a/c clutch.sometimes you can try prying with a screwdriver the edge that is dragging and noise will go away.
this is a white box on the other side of the passangers dash board. lift up the bonnet and disconnect it. that will stop the noise but now your heaters will only get warm instead of hot. its some sort of flap to do with the heater matrix. realy anoying
Sounds like a lifter noise. worn lifters can't keep oil in them anymore so over night the oil leaks out. when you start the vehicle, you will hear a ticking noise or knocking noise till the lifters fill with oil again. only remedy is to replace the lifters.
you could try an additive but it's temporary.