Does anybody know how to remove the needles from the gauges in the isntrument cluster. I want to replace the gauges faceplates but I can't seem to get the needles out. Is there a special tool for that? I tried wiht my fingers but thet seemed very much in place.
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Re: 96 Maxima gauge needles
Here I hope this works for you step by step for removing needle from gauage. Click the word needle. This will take you to a step by step guide. All needles are the same to remove no matter the make of the car
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Anti slosh module? I've never heard of that. If there is such a thing, it must be on the fuel level sending unit in the tank. It is usually the sending unit at fault when the gas gauge stops working.
Here's how to check if the problem is the sending unit or the gauge in the cluster: you will need a helper to watch the gas gauge needle. Pull the electrical connector apart at the tank, find the gas gauge wire. The power wire for the fuel pump is pink and black, and the ground for it is a black wire, so the fuel sender wire should be a different color. When you figure out which wire is for the gas gauge, turn the key to on, and take a jumper wire and ground the gas gauge wire to the frame. Have a helper watch the gas gauge needle when you ground the wire: the needle should move perceptibly. If it does, the gauge in the cluster is good, and the problem is with the sending unit in the tank. If grounding the wire does not make the needle jump, the problem may be the gauge in the cluster. Be sure that you have made a good contact with ground with the jumper wire.
There is a small match box size voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. This sends low voltage (about 5 volts) through the gas gauge and on to the wire going to the tank. When you ground this wire, it should cause the gauge needle to go either to full or to empty, but you should see the needle move. Remember, key on, then ground the wire. Any movement of the needle means the gas gauge is probably good, and the problem is the sending unit in the tank.
Hi Penny, I'm glad to help! We see this all the time at the dealership. Sometimes a voltage spike will cause the gauge neetles to go in the wrong direction and they will stick behind the little pins that stick outward from the gauge. If you will look very close to see if the needles or on the wrong side of the pins. If they are there is a cheap way and an expensive way to fix the problem. NOTE: The expensive way is to take it to the dealer and have them re-calibrate the cluster. NOTE: The cheap way is. If you know someone mechanically inclined, you can have them remove the cluster and turn it upside done until the needles fall back to the correct side of the pins. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Penny.
This is a common problem with this vintage Chrysler gauge cluster. To DIY repair yourself... it's easy, don;t worry: You need a low watt soldering iron... 25-35 watt. Do NOT use a high powered soldering gun or you will ruin the electronics!!! Remove the gauge cluster from the instrument panel. There will be several philips head screws you will need to take out. Be gentle on the plastic as it become brittle with age! After you get the entire cluster out... you will note it has one or perhaps 2 electrical connectors on the back side. Carefully disconnect those. Take the gauge cluster to the place where you'll be soldering and have some small screwdrivers to remove the circuit board from the gauge housing. Hold the circuit board by the edges. On the front side on the board, locate the corresponding soldering pins to the main connector in the center of the gauge assembly. Heat up your soldering iron and touch to the iron to each pin connection on the front side of the circuit board to reflow the solder. (DO NOT TRY TO DO this from the plastic connector side on the gauge assembly, as you will melt the plastic connector ruining it. and it may not melt the solder all the way through to the connection on the front side (inside the gauge). Reinstall the gauge and it will work fine for you.
hi i am serbscot,to repair ur temp gauge i would check ur temp sender,if u look on the opposite side of the battery close to firewall about roughly 200-300mm away, maybe give it a really good clean.then test car if it still does not work u have to buy an instrument cluster from a *** wrecker and do a swap,its pretty easy,just when u take the stuffed one out make sure u put it in same way.i did mine in one hour or so,i would reccomend filling car with fuel,then adjust needle to full mark. its accurate enough so that u wont run out of fuel.! cheers and good luck!
It will take about 30 min to fix. Well that's how long it took me to reapair my 2006 SL. First remove the 3 screws from the shroud around your column they are under your column. Make sure your column is extended and in its lowest position. Second remove the 3 trim pieces on top of the cluster by using a flat blade screwdriver be careful not to damage your dash. Third remove the single screw on top of the cluster and the two that are underneath. Fourth release the tabs that hold the bezel around your cluster. Fifth each lens can then be removed exposing the gauge face and needles. Sixth gently move the needle counter clockwise until it rest on top of the needle stop. Seventh try to remember how it all goes back together haha. No really it is a piece of cake 30 to 40 min versus the 2 hour quote from my local Nissan dealer.
The easiest way is to drill a small hole in the cluster use a small metal wire to pull it up and over the pin. Or remove the two screws on the trim around the cluster the part that hangs over the cluster pull it of carefully. There are a few 8 or so screws that hold in the cluster and some real small screw that hold the glass on the cluster. Take those screw out and remove glass. flip needle. Use this time to clean the area reinstall all. Note the trim around the cluster is held in by push in clips and screws.
first and foremost check the fuse box. there is a fuse for guages. The temp sensor is somewhere on the manifold and it will have a hard wire with probably a spring around it for protections that runs from the engine to the instrument cluster. You can remove the temp sensor and use a heat gun or propain heat and see if you get any kind of response. I suspect if all your other gauges are working the fuse is good. Most temp sensors do not use power only for lighting of the gauge, It just sends a resistance change to the water temp bulb and it moves the gauge. Is it a seperate gauge or in your insturment cluster? could be simple as a crushed line or the sensor went bad. It is normally self contained. I suspect it is a gauge and not a dummy light? if you can not get the one working in the instrument cluster I suggest going to and autoparts store and replace it which is very easy to do. You can remove the old sensor from the block and reinstall the new on in its place and run the cable back through where the first one was and mount the gauge in another area, It is very important to know the water temp since most computers use this info for setting the correct fuel to air mixture in a closed loop system. That is a diffrent sensor but you need to know the temp yourself to keep from blowing a head gasket or worse which can cause you lots of money to repair, I prefer to mount my own gauge seperate from the cluster, best of luck