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When you say it "jerks," this description could fit several actual symptoms. If by "jerks" you mean the engine misfires, it could be caused by the need for a major tune-up (including plug wires and distributor cap), or it could be a problem with fuel delivery, contaminated fuel, or defective components in the fuel system.
I assume the CHECK ENGINE light is on (and has probably been illuminated for some time now). Begin by doing a readout of the stored codes, and use the results to begin your diagnosis.
If by "jerks" you mean the transmission is slipping (engine revs but car slows down or doesn't accelerate), you have a transmission issue. If the transmission fluid and strainer/filter have not been replaced within the past 5 years or 50,000 miles, have a complete transmission service performed.
If by "jerks" you mean that the steering wheel wobbles or pulls, you have a problem with the front suspension.
If by "jerks" you mean that the car shudders or pulls when you apply the brakes, you need brake work.
I think I covered all of the "jerks." ;)
we cant drive car, so jerking is not clear to a non driver.
first off , ill guess there is no odd noises.
and that means jerking can be 2 things (sure more but)
engine jerks, does it only?
or transmission slips then stops slipping resulting in a jerk.
get it serviced, with persons that can drive and experience this live.
the engine doesn't like the extra stress of the air con unit being run _ there is no way of fixing this _ unless you get a full engine overhaul or a secondhand engine and installed _ the engine is old and the extra pressure on it with the aircon it just cant handle it
Since you\'re old school I would think you\'ve already checked the normal stuff like the fluid level in the transmission. If this is good, has the transmission ever been serviced? I\'m not familiar with your vehicle so if it has a filter it could be that is partially clogged, Does the fluid have a strong smell to it? Does is feel absolutely smooth or can you feel or see little flecks of something in it. You may solve this by dropping the pan and replacing the filter. But if that is the problem it will only be temporary as if there is debris in the pan you are ready for a rebuild.The sooner you do it, the better before you have hard part damage. Another possibility is a bad solenoid in the tramsission that isn\'t sensing the pressure until it is high enough to jerk when it kicks into gear. Again to even check this though you need a transmission guy to pull it and look it over. Sorry guy.
If the problem is due to warped brake discs, you will typically feel a mild pulsing in the peddle when braking firmly. Also, when you are experiencing this shudder, taking your foot off the brake (when safe to do so) should cause it to stop. If that is not the case, I would consider again the transmission. I am on my second Caravan, so I speak from experience. The Caravan transmission should have the fluid changed every 30,000 miles to keep it in top performance, especially if you are carrying any heavy loads or pulling a trailer. When you are slowing to a stop, the transmission must downshift through each of the gears. If it stays in the higher gears at too slow a speed, you will feel a shudder. Sometimes this can be corrected by changing the transmission fluid. Be sure to use the proper Chrysler fluid for your transmission. Typically it is the highest (overdrive) gear that causes the shudder. You can determine this by moving the gear selector from "D" to "3" when you are experiencing the shudder. Other possibilities are alignment, worn stabilizer bar bushings, worn ball joints, and out-of-round tires. Most of these also involve some accompanying noises though. Good Luck.
is it the ecotec engine fitted 1.8 or 2.0./2.2l or the diesel 1.7 engine.. how long have you not used the air con for. not using it for a long time you can damage the pump the flown sensor. even the temperature sensor. but if the engine is trying to stall with the ac on then the pump may have a fault. ac should be run for 10min once a week no matter the weather. stops you having problems later.
It depends on what engine it has. On the 1.4/1.6 petrol engines a universal stretch belt tool will do it, the problem comes if it's got a separate belt for aircon as the crankshaft pulley has two sets of v grooves and it's difficult to force the larger inner belt over the crankshaft pulley as it keeps slipping off the water pump drive.
There is a special tool that fits to the water pump pulley that makes fitting easy but it is possible to do it without it by using a lever between the chassis rail and the water pump to stop the belt coming off the side radius of the pulley. The aircon belt is easy using the universal fitting tool. It is possible to use brute force with screwdrivers but will normally damage the belts and a cheap fitting tool can be brought to actually save money and aggro !