Ciarocci, to be honest idont know. cleared all codes before i started it this last time and those are what popped up after truck was running. had to hold foot on pedal to keep it running. i am using a actron obd 2 scanner model cp9135 those are the only codes that came up. didnt see any separator code 10.
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Cold weather has an adverse affect on batteries. The clicking sound could be from the starter solenoid not receiving enough voltage to energize the starter motor. The engine being hesitant to start and run could indicate the need of new spark plugs, wires, etc.
Hi: This is a Wild Shot, But i had a Customer come in with similar Problem: Come to Find out His Catalytic converter and his Exhaust Pipe had Colasped internal ,Kida Like Putting a Potato in your Tail Pipe.Do you smell Gas ? Have someone Start it and You Put your Have Close to your Rear Exhaust Pipe See if you can Fill a Good Flow of Air Coming Out. If you Can the Chances are it may not be Exhast or Converter. I would Run Another Scan, Or Most Auto Part Stores Scan you For Free I know Autozone Does. Let them Scan and See if it Picks up and Faulty Sensors.Whens the last time you Change Your Fuel Filter? And Check Engine Compression.And Make Sure You Engine Has;nt Jumped Time.I would Start with the Scan, Have them clear any Code and see if it Comes Back on Another Scan. Check Firing Order .Distributor Cap & Rotor.And Make Sure that your Enging is At the Compression Stroke on you Number ! Cylinder And tYour Rotor is Pointing to Or Close to Your #1 Spark Plug Wire on your Distributor Cap. Hope I've Given You Some Help, Please Let Me Know By Voting on my Quality of Solutions. Thanks from the WYOCWBOY P/S Could you also give a Testamonie if my Solutions Have Help. Thanks
I'd check the manual transfer valve on the dash. They have a tendency to go bad after awhile. Cause 1000 different symptoms, and be the last thing checked/replaced. It's probably the cheapest place to start. The pump under the driver's feet is usually the last one to go in my experience, but the secondary culprit is normally the main pump in the rear tank.
Next time it tries to stall, toggle the fuel switch and see what happens. Same with a hard start. Back and forth a few times quickly.
There is one thing you can do yourself and that is to drain the fuel tank (save the fuel for later!) and put some 93 octane in, to see if that cures the problem.
The other suggestion is to get that list of fault codes from your mechanic and post them here. Make sure it's a current list - read the codes, print out the list, clear the codes and then run the car for a while before getting the fault codes read again. Then send us that new list.
I haven't looked up the spec on your engine because I don't know what engine type it is, but if it has anti-knock sensors they could be trying to ****** the electronic timing so much that the car stalls, maybe combined with some other problem.
If these suggestions do help you solve the problem, please give my reply a rating to help others judge my knowledge / guessing skills. If they do not, please hold off on the rating and add a comment with more details so I can try to help you further. Cheers, D