Question about 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab

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After Making a left turn, no brake pedal

While driving, when I turn to the left and then straighten the wheel, I lose brake pressure and have to pump the brake to return pressure. After that, brake pressure is fine until I turn left again. It seems like the brake calipers are being compressed, like when you change pads. Any ideas would be great. The wheel bearings were changed about 10,000 miles ago. It is a 4X4.

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  • wrongway66 Feb 09, 2009

    no, it is fine, unless you make a left turn.

  • farmboy63 May 11, 2010

    with car running, apply pressor on brakes for 90 seconds, do you loose pressure? Dont turn the tires while doing this.

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If you are not loosing brake fluid, I would guess that the master cyl. is going. If you are lossing liquid, check the wheel brake cyl.

after you fix the problem, please post, I'd like to know what you came up with

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

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Hydraulic brakes stoped working after blown steering seel? Need help


If there's no pressure on your brake pedal it's due to a failure somewhere in the braking system. I can't see any connection between a steering problem and a braking problem.

Most cars have a split-circuit braking system. That is, the front left wheel is on the same line as the rear right wheel. The front right wheel is on the same line as the rear left wheel.

This is just a safety feature: If one brake line loses pressure, the other line still works and you retain 50% of your braking power.

check the level of your brake fluid. If the level has dropped it indicates a leak somewhere. Though be aware that it is possible NOT to lose brake fluid whilst having soft brakes..

Brake pressure is lost due to either a faulty brake master cylinder or a leak at one of the wheels.

Remove each tyre in turn and inspect the piston on the brake calliper. If there's slight wetness caused by brake fluid that indicates a seal (around the brake piston) has failed and is drawing in air.

There's no need to replace a calliper - overhaul kits are available.

The link below shows generic images of brake calliper pistons/seals:
brake calliper piston Google Search

Feb 08, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Brake lines probably broke. brakes stopped working suddenly.


There are many things other than brake lines that can cause braking loss. Investigation will reveal the issue. First, check fluid level in the Master Cylinder. If the level is normal, you don't have any broken lines/leaks. If the fluid is full and you have no brake pedal/braking power, chances are the Master Cylinder itself has failed. There are o-rings internal to the M/C that can fail, and when this happens, you will lose pressure to wheel cylinders/calipers and, as a result, lose your brakes.

If the fluid has leaked out, then you need to find out fro where. This is not too difficult normally. Fill the M/C with fluid and have someone press the brake pedal while observing the underside of the vehicle. You should see fluid dripping from somewhere, often near one of the wheels. You can have a leaking caliper/wheel cylinder, brake hose, or metal brake line. Once you determine what part has failed, you can purchase and replace the defective part. Brake calipers, wheel cylinders, and hoses are fairly simple to replace. Brake lines are more difficult, as they require shaping, cutting, and the creation of couplings. After repairs are done, the brake system must be refilled and all air bled from the system or braking will not be satisfactory.

Feb 16, 2016 | 1999 Buick Regal

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In a car what is the meaning of abs and what is purpose?


automatic braking system. stops skidding.

Mar 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Replaced some brake line, rear pads and one rear wheel cylinder. Now no pressure and nothing happening when trying to bleed.


Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?

Jul 07, 2013 | 1997 Mercury Tracer

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    2 Answers

    I changed the front brake pads and now have no pressure when i press the brake peddal. the master cylinder is full but still no pressure. what did i do wrong?


    You may not have done anything wrong. You won't have any pressure the first couple of times that you press the brake pedal. Try pumping the brakes a few times. When you change the pads you have to open the caliper all the way up to get the caliper back on. When you press the brake the pads won't go all the way to the caliper on the first couple of times you press the brake. But once you pump the pedal, it should build up pressure. If not you will have to bleed the brakes.

    Nov 29, 2010 | 1995 Toyota 4Runner

    2 Answers

    The tube for my brakes going from the caliper to the inside of the car burst. i went to replace them and it did not help my breaks are still not working. how do you properly bleed the brakes on a 2003 gmc...


    Bleeding brakes can be very frustrating.There are two ways you can do them 1 gravity feed;this means that you undo the bleeder screw on the caliper or the wheel cylinder and let the brake fluid flow until all air is removed from the system or 2 suction bleed; this involves going to your auto supply store and buying a small hand held pump that creates a suction which in turn,once connected over the bleeder screw,allows you to pull brake fluid and the air out of the system.If you have a friend to help you have them depress the brake pedal until it reaches the floor while you loosen the bleeder screw and discharge the air/fluid.Tighten the screw before the brake pedal is released,release the pedal and repeat.Keep checking the master cylinder and do not let the fluid run low.Don't pump the pedal repeatedly,brake fluid is hydroscopic,which means it can absorb air directly into itself.Slowly and firmly does it until you have purged all the air.You will know when it is all gone because hard pedal will come back.Good Luck

    Nov 02, 2010 | 2003 GMC Sonoma Extended Cab

    1 Answer

    I'm a mid-age woman w/a 94 DeVille that I want to change the brake fluid myself. How do I do that? Thank you!


    BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING Diagonal Split System MASTER CYLINDER
    1. Refill the master cylinder reservoir.
    2. Push the plunger several times to force fluid into the piston.
    3. Continue pumping the plunger until the fluid is free of the air bubbles.
    4. Plug the outlet ports and install the master cylinder.
    COMPLETE SYSTEM
    1. Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Check the level often during the procedure.
    2. Starting with the right rear wheel, remove the protective cap from the bleeder, if equipped, and place where it will not be lost. Clean the bleed screw. When bleeding the brakes, keep face away from the brake area. Spewing fluid may cause facial and/or visual damage. Do not allow brake fluid to spill on the vehicle's finish; it will remove the paint.
    3. If the system is empty, the most efficient way to get fluid down to the wheel is to loosen the bleeder about 1?2 - 3?4 turn, place a finger firmly over the bleeder and have a helper pump the brakes slowly until fluid comes out the bleeder. Once fluid is at the bleeder, close it before the pedal is released inside the vehicle. NOTE: If the pedal is pumped rapidly, the fluid will churn and create small air bubbles, which are difficult to remove from the system. These air bubbles will eventually congregate resulting in a spongy pedal.
    4. Once fluid has been pumped to the caliper or wheel cylinder, open the bleed screw again, have the helper press the brake pedal to the floor, lock the bleeder and have the helper slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds and repeat the procedure (including the 15 second wait) until no more air comes out of the bleeder upon application of the brake pedal. Remember to close the bleeder before the pedal is released inside the vehicle each time the bleeder is opened. If not, air will be induced into the system.
    5. If a helper is not available, connect a small hose to the bleeder, place the end in a container of brake fluid and proceed to pump the pedal from inside the vehicle until no more air comes out the bleeder. The hose will prevent air from entering the system.
    6. Repeat the procedure on remaining wheel cylinders in order:
      1. Step 1: Left front
      2. Step 2: Left rear
      3. Step 3: Right front
    7. Hydraulic brake systems must be totally flushed if the fluid becomes contaminated with water, dirt or other corrosive chemicals. To flush, bleed the entire system until all fluid has been replaced with the correct type of new fluid.
    8. Install the bleeder cap(s) on the bleeder to keep dirt out. Always road test the vehicle after brake work of any kind is done.
    Teves® Anti-lock Brake System FRONT BRAKES
    1. Turn the ignition switch OFF throughout this procedure.
    2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
    3. Remove the reservoir cap. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
    4. Using the bleeder adapter tool, install it onto the fluid reservoir.
    5. Attach a diaphragm type pressure bleeder to the adapter and charge the bleeder to 20 psi.
    6. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to either front wheel caliper and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
    7. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and purge the caliper until bubble free fluid flows from the hose.
    8. Tighten the bleeder screw and remove the bleeder equipment.
    9. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the pump to charge the accumulator.
    10. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
    REAR BRAKES
    1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
    2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
    3. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
    4. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the system to charge. NOTE: The pump will turn OFF when the system is charged.
    5. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to a rear wheel bleeder valve and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
    6. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and slightly depress the brake pedal for at least 10 seconds or until air is removed from the brake system. Close the bleeder valve. NOTE: It is a good idea to check the fluid level several times during the bleeding operation. Remember, depressurize the system before checking the reservoir fluid.
    7. Repeat the bleeding procedure for the other rear wheel.
    8. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
    Bosch® III Anti-lock Brake System
    1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
    2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
    3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
    4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
    5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
    6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
    7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
    8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
    Bosch® 2U Anti-lock Brake System
    1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
    2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
    3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
    4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
    5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
    6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
    7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
    8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
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    Sep 02, 2010 | 1994 Cadillac DeVille

    1 Answer

    I have a 97 jetta and when i try and bleed my brakes i start on the passenger side bleeder valve. and when i start bleeding the brakes i have pressure and the pedal goes to the floor but when i bleed the...


    When bleeding you start at the rt rear to left rear to rt front to left front always checking to make sure master stays with fluid, also start by removing one bleeder at a time and make sure the hole is clean and free of dirt brake clean should flow through, do this to all 4, then have someone pump pedal 3 times and hold then open bleeder when you close bleeder tell them pump again three times, do this all around until you have a good pedal, also check for leaks after bleeding, may have bad rusted line or bad master but bleed each wheel good first.dont worry about pedal going to floor everytime, just make sure fluid flows out of all bleeders when bleeding. hope this helps.

    Jul 26, 2010 | 1997 Volkswagen Jetta

    1 Answer

    Changed rear caliper on 98 blazer and now have no brake pressue at either rear wheel? Did before I changed calipers. Tried to bleed the brakes but get very little fluid out and it is slow, no pressure?


    Hi,
    Have someone pump the brake pedal and hold foot pressure it. Loosen the bleeder screw and air or fluid should shoot out... it's under pressure. Tell the person to not lift up on the pedal until you tighten the bleeder, or they'll draw air back into the line. They'll feel the pedal go down to the floor. Keep applying pedal pressure till the bleeder is tightened. Repeat the process till all air is out. They will have a "good pedal" shortly.
    Do each wheel, and remember to refill the master cylinder as you lose fluid.
    Hope this helps... Good luck!

    Oct 16, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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