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That would be your engine "choke" functioning. It's not a problem. The choke engages when engine is cold and shoots extra fuel to the cylinders to idle the engine up especially in cold with. Once the engine has sufficiently warmed up, the engine will idle back down.
p0339 is crank shaft position sensor related error. you need to be sure that its wiring is not damaged and it is not shorted somehow. if it is broken or getting broken, car may stall, or wont start att all.
p0113 is for intake air tempoerature sensor errors. that sensor measures air ehich enters the engine. it is least important. its effect may not be noticable when weather is not extremely cold.
p0334 is for knock sensor on engine. it prevent predetonation due to ignition conditions appear. it is felt when engine is under load like climbing, and engine speed is low. check for wires if it is ok replace sensor.
we can tell that temperature sensor is not directly effects other sensors. but knock sensor and crank position sensor is to important for engine. if you have no starting issues, even cold or warm engine, invest on knock sensor first.
try un-plugging the IAC motor,then start it,if it idles low and stays there then replace the IAC motor----if no change then you may have a knock in the engine and the knock sensor is telling the computer to change the timing to compensate for spark knock due to low grade fuel,so it advances the timing back and forth due to too high of rpm then too low and the computer doesnt know how to smoothen it out that fast,but eventually does.The check engine light would usually come on in this case
if its at the top end its pistion slap
if its at the bottem end(of your engine) its a crank shaft bearing.
with out going into extream detail,
a ting sound at the top is a pistion slap.... replace all your pistions posibly over hual the engine.
a dubble knock that gose with rpm but sounds 2 knocks very every fireing of the pistion is a crank bearing..... replace your crank shaft bearings.... all of them b/c metal gose threw an engine extreamly fast and will destroy other beraings. this knock on start up will turn into a knock all the time, then a very louad knock that will end your engines life.
unfortunetly the answer is engine rebuild and fast.
low voltage at electronic spark timing circuit, or functional test failure
First thing to do is to test the knock system. If the ECM isn't seeing knock from the system then it will error on code 43. If you have a scan tool it makes it much easier to do this. You can then just look for knock counts.
On a warm engine, bring the idle up to about 1000 RPM, and rap on the passenger side of the block. The engine RPM should drop a little then come back up, and the scan tool reported knock counts should increase.
If not, then the knock system is faulty.
If the above test is OK, listen for knock the next time you take it WOT. If you can't hear any then the knock system isn't going to report it either. It may be from too high an octane fuel, too low of timing, or just a detonation resistent engine.
The APC valve regulates boost pressure (via the wastegate) to avoid over-pressurising the engine. It ensures that a safe boost pressure isn't exceeded. Don't run with it disconnected or you risk blowing the engine!
Problem areas can include: knock sensor on the engine block (also poor quality fuel, dirty engine causing knock); engine ECU.
You need to provide more information about when this happens:
hard accelerating? (likely poor quality fuel, dirty plugs/engine causing knock) and general driving similar.
idling? possibly a knock sensor or ECU related problem
hello it sounds like you oil pump is not supply enough oil from what your explaining it sounds like a connecting rod knock wich you will usually here under stress load with engine increase check your oil level on the car try to increase idle while holding your brake in gear then do the same in nuetral does the noise sound the same if it does you should have a compression test on each cylinder to rule out each cylinder goodluck