Question about 1996 Honda Accord

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97 Honda Accord, 2.7L Engine Knock

I have an engine knock. The knock is very fast at idle and increases with RPM's. The sound appears to come from the front of the engine just below the alternator, stuck valve??? Any ideas?

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You need to get your valve adjust by the dealer

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

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Knock sensor for Honda 1998 Accord LX


Duplicate question.
I doubt the sensor would make the engine stop running. The computer would slow down the spark timing to prevent engine knock, but not shut it off.

Jul 08, 2013 | 1998 Ford Taurus

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Idles fast problem


That would be your engine "choke" functioning. It's not a problem. The choke engages when engine is cold and shoots extra fuel to the cylinders to idle the engine up especially in cold with. Once the engine has sufficiently warmed up, the engine will idle back down.

Jun 20, 2012 | 1987 Honda Accord

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99 Suburban 4x4 knocking sound when shifting to highet gear when hot


If it sounds like a rapid tapping (like someone is using a small hammer to hit the engine block really fast) then you probably have spark knock. It happens to older engines. As the engine gets older, carbon builds up inside the combustion chamber and effectively increases the compression ratio. Since you are using low octane fuel, it doesn't resist spark knock as well as high octane (this is a reason performance cars use high octane) and thus you get spark knock. An easy way to tell for sure it to run a tank or two of 91 or better octane through. Since you'll be mixing it with 87 octane, it could take two fill-ups to see a result. If the knock goes away, then you know it is spark knock. If not, or the knock I described is not what you hear, then I would need a better description (perhaps a video) of the sound you hear. If it is spark knock, you can run a cleaner through (Sea Foam works great) the engine and that usually fixes spark knock. Sea Foam works best when given to the engine through a vacuum line. Don't add too much at once, it will hydro lock the engine. Just let it **** in a bit and when the idle comes back up, put a bit more in. I would pour half the can in the tank and feed the other half to the engine through the vacuum line. Be prepared, when you feed it to the engine through the vacuum line, it is going to smoke a lot until it burns off the Sea Foam. That is normal and will go away after a short drive.

Apr 08, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

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I have a Honda Accord 2004 with a code PO339, PO113 &PO344. can you assist in advice to solve these problems


p0339 is crank shaft position sensor related error. you need to be sure that its wiring is not damaged and it is not shorted somehow. if it is broken or getting broken, car may stall, or wont start att all.

p0113 is for intake air tempoerature sensor errors. that sensor measures air ehich enters the engine. it is least important. its effect may not be noticable when weather is not extremely cold.

p0334 is for knock sensor on engine. it prevent predetonation due to ignition conditions appear. it is felt when engine is under load like climbing, and engine speed is low. check for wires if it is ok replace sensor.

we can tell that temperature sensor is not directly effects other sensors.
but knock sensor and crank position sensor is to important for engine. if you have no starting issues, even cold or warm engine, invest on knock sensor first.

Nov 28, 2011 | 2004 Honda Accord

1 Answer

1992 ford f150 xlt- when first started idle jumps from very low to very high repeatedly until warm. then idle is high


try un-plugging the IAC motor,then start it,if it idles low and stays there then replace the IAC motor----if no change then you may have a knock in the engine and the knock sensor is telling the computer to change the timing to compensate for spark knock due to low grade fuel,so it advances the timing back and forth due to too high of rpm then too low and the computer doesnt know how to smoothen it out that fast,but eventually does.The check engine light would usually come on in this case

Jan 23, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 Explorer - 4.0 SOHC v6 engine knocking noise


yes I would due engine. heck for $2,200 dollars I could do the job parts labor and all

Dec 27, 2009 | 1997 Ford Explorer AWD

1 Answer

Engine knocks cold ok hot


if its at the top end its pistion slap
if its at the bottem end(of your engine) its a crank shaft bearing.

with out going into extream detail,

a ting sound at the top is a pistion slap.... replace all your pistions posibly over hual the engine.

a dubble knock that gose with rpm but sounds 2 knocks very every fireing of the pistion is a crank bearing..... replace your crank shaft bearings.... all of them b/c metal gose threw an engine extreamly fast and will destroy other beraings. this knock on start up will turn into a knock all the time, then a very louad knock that will end your engines life.

unfortunetly the answer is engine rebuild and fast.

May 30, 2009 | 2003 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

ODB code for Chevy Beretta


low voltage at electronic spark timing circuit, or functional test failure

First thing to do is to test the knock system. If the ECM isn't seeing knock from the system then it will error on code 43. If you have a scan tool it makes it much easier to do this. You can then just look for knock counts.

On a warm engine, bring the idle up to about 1000 RPM, and rap on the passenger side of the block. The engine RPM should drop a little then come back up, and the scan tool reported knock counts should increase.

If not, then the knock system is faulty.

If the above test is OK, listen for knock the next time you take it WOT. If you can't hear any then the knock system isn't going to report it either. It may be from too high an octane fuel, too low of timing, or just a detonation resistent engine.

Dec 31, 2008 | 1989 Chevrolet Beretta

1 Answer

APC Solenoid Valve Knocking


The APC valve regulates boost pressure (via the wastegate) to avoid over-pressurising the engine. It ensures that a safe boost pressure isn't exceeded. Don't run with it disconnected or you risk blowing the engine!

Problem areas can include: knock sensor on the engine block (also poor quality fuel, dirty engine causing knock); engine ECU.

You need to provide more information about when this happens:

hard accelerating? (likely poor quality fuel, dirty plugs/engine causing knock) and general driving similar.

idling? possibly a knock sensor or ECU related problem

What rpm? what boost gauge pressure?

as an outside chance, maybe a sticky wastegate

Saabreur

Nov 12, 2008 | 1992 Saab 900

1 Answer

Engine Knock


hello it sounds like you oil pump is not supply enough oil from what your explaining it sounds like a connecting rod knock wich you will usually here under stress load with engine increase check your oil level on the car try to increase idle while holding your brake in gear then do the same in nuetral does the noise sound the same if it does you should have a compression test on each cylinder to rule out each cylinder goodluck

Sep 17, 2008 | 1997 Eagle Talon

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