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2.0 or 2.5?
here is 2.0
if you need more just let me know
Disconnect battery ground cable, then isolate cable end with electrical tape or equivalent.
Remove air intake system and fuel line mounting bracket.
Disconnect throttle cable.
Disconnect coolant line from idle air bypass air valve.
Disconnect coolant and vacuum lines from throttle body. Mark vacuum lines for installation reference.
Disconnect throttle position sensor connector.
On models with automatic transaxle, disconnect idle switch connector.
Disconnect brake booster vacuum line from back lefthand side of intake manifold.
Disconnect EGR temperature sensor connector, if equipped.
Disconnect speed control vacuum line from back righthand side of intake manifold.
Disconnect EGR solenoid connectors.
Remove PCV valve from cylinder head cover.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove intake manifold support bracket, then the EGR pipe from intake manifold.
Lower vehicle and remove intake manifold attaching bolts and nuts.
Remove intake manifold and discard gasket.
Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
Reverse procedure to install. Torque bolts and nuts in sequence to 14-19 ft lb.
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Standing in front of the car, the lower left vacuum port on the carb goes to the distributor. The upper left port goes to the vacuum switch for the secondaries. The brake booster screws into the rear base of the carburator. The transmission kickdown plugs into a nipple on the rear of the intake manifold.
See you have a different vehicle than 1999 Escort. If you have a 1967 model, there are many things to look for. You did not say the engine and carburetor type and size which would help us solve this.
The power valve in front of some carbs is connected to the accelerator rod by the throttle lever. The rubber part inside can come apart. With older vehicle parts, you do not have the original Vacuum fittings or intake manifolds present all of the time. Some used a complicated "Vacuum tree" in the intake manifold. This can cause RPM problems when the wrong hose is routed to the wrong port. These "Vacuum Trees" work off of Water heat to route Vacuum.
The Automatic versions of some of these vehicles often had a Vacuum shift and if the diaphragm was leaking, RPM could be affected. There were also parts called "Dashpots" which could have Vacuum lines routed to the "Vacuum tree" which triggers throttle position.
Any Intake air leaks will speed up RPM. If my comments do not fix this, supply the engine size and carburetion and another Expert may be able to do more.
drain coolant , remove and mark all vacuum lines , make a schematic to diagram your hose routing, disconnect and plug all fuel lines, remove distributor and mark location of rotor, disconnect battery, remove any necessary cables, brackets and or accesseries, remove intake mounting bolts, note length of bolts and reference location, pry up on intake , remove intake, scrape old gasket off , must be very clean to reinstall new gasket or you will cause a leak..
On the 2818 holley there is a calibrated elbow on drivers side of carb about centre of the main body.This connects to oil filler stand pipe in front of intake.Fresh air hose goes from air cleaner to back of block where road draft tube used to be before PCV came along.
The calibrated elbow serves as PCV metered orifice.Be sure flame arrester screen is inside of air cleaner on fresh air connection.
Thoroughly clean all gasket mating surfaces. Be careful not to damage or score the aluminum surface. If replaced, use Loctite® 290, to seal the new PCV valve inlet tube into the manifold.
NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the intake manifold torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
Install or connect the following:
New gasket and manifold. Torque the nuts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Power steering pump. Torque the fasteners to 27 ft. lbs. (38 Nm).
Heater hose and install the manifold support bracket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Lubricate the male ends of the fuel lines with a few drops of clean engine oil, then connect the fuel supply and return lines.
Fuel line(s) in the retaining bracket. Torque the mounting screw to 36 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Throttle cable to the throttle body and attach the accelerator cable bracket. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Reposition the wiring harness and connect the wiring and vacuum hoses to their original locations. The harness leads to the TP sensor and EGR solenoid must be routed between the intake manifold runners.
Negative battery cable
Fill the coolant system.
Prime the fuel system by cycling the ignition ON for 5 seconds and OFF for 10 seconds a few times without cranking the engine.
Start the engine, check for leaks, and repair if necessary.
Just a suggestion, but get a fuel pressure gauge and check your pressure regulator. They use intake vacuum to control a diaphram that regulates the fuel based on RPM/vacuum relationship. I had a Supra with a similar problem - had all the mechanics stumped. It was flooding in #1 and # 2 cyl. badly. Turns out rubber diaphram in pressure reg. cracked and the engine vacuum was pulling gas directly into the intake manifold on top of what the injectors were supplying! Also, lifting the regulator's vacuum line off the manifold and holding it close to the vacuum, you'll actually see gas getting sucked in if that's the problem. I took the same route you did, replaced inj. etc, before I stumbled on this. Good luck!
nice choice of rod, but the v 6, junk , need to run untill 454,350, 396 arrive? cool, ok. only need dist vac to accelerater vac port pass side of carb,manifold vac port to brake boost lose rest.cap off.<check timing> racing trick, vac guage max vac back off 2 lbs of vac perfect timing for race. set wreckers up that way for clean burn and better milage. firstname.lastname@example.org or classic roadside services .com e-mail rick v-6 231 229 vega/monza