Question about 2004 Ford Explorer

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2004 Ford Explorer 4.0 v6 will not crank

I ran out of gas the other day. After putting some gas in the tank, I tried to start the engine but I had lost power from trying to crank it. I hooked up a battery charger to the battery, waited a few minutes and tried to start it. It cranked a few times but didn't have enough juice. So, I tried to jump start it with a friends vehicle. After hooking up the cables properly and waiting a few minutes, I tried to start it and nothing happened. It wouldn't even crank and there was no clicking noises when I turned the key, but all the dash lights came on and the radio worked. So, I let it sit over night hoping that the computer just needed to reset something. Came back next day and still nothing. I replaced the battery and still nothing. I replaced the starter and solenoid and still nothing. I replaced the ignition relay and still nothing. Keep in mind that the whole time I still have power because all of my lights and electronic equipment still work. I hooked up a code reader and it said no codes found. Let me know if you can help. My email is emibeat@msn.com. Thank you so much

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  • 3 more comments 
  • emibeat Feb 08, 2009

    There was a button type switch on the passenger side right next to the door that I pushed. It was sitting just behind the right side trim panel under the glove box. Is this the button you are refering to or is there another button. I'm pretty sure it was called a fuel pump switch in the owner's manual.

  • emibeat Feb 09, 2009

    I hit the fuel pump switch again and nothing happened.

    I've read that it could be something to do with the key and it's security function with relation to the on board computer. Any thoughts on that. Thanks

  • emibeat Feb 09, 2009

    Is there a way to test the crank sensor without replacing it (also, my crank sensor was replaced about 10,000 miles ago along with the drivebelt). The alternator tested fine. the 175amp fuse read fine.

  • emibeat Feb 11, 2009

    the key was the trick. It had to be re-sync'd with the computer. Quite expensive for such a simple problem. $35 for the key and $40 to program, as well as the tow, about $100. So all together about $200 w/ taxes. Ford definetly has a racket on this key thing. oh yeah, you can only get this done at a dealership unless you already have 2 programmed keys that work.

  • emibeat Feb 11, 2009

    oh yeah, just so other people know, this key thing is quickly fixed. I had my truck towed at about 10 am, and was driving it home at about 12 noon. It took loneger for them to get it in the service bay than it did to actually program it and another spare key for me.

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You have a fuel reset switch that needs to be pushed back in. This is why you are not getting any thing to happen

The fuel pump inertia switch is located in your right front passenger
area. It is located on the right side of the transmission hump on the
toe board, just under the edge of the carpet. If you don't see any gas
leaking, or smell any gas, push the button down that has popped up
on the top of the switch. This will allow power to go to your fuel pump.

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Jeremy Reddick
    Jeremy Reddick Feb 08, 2009


    Yes that is the button I am talking about, Hit that and the car should fire. It is a saefty kill switch for your car so it does not ruin anything

  • Jeremy Reddick
    Jeremy Reddick Feb 09, 2009

    Yes, that would be the next step I was going to tell you to try if the fuel switch did not work. When the Fords, when you run out of gas this trips to keep you from hurting anything in your engine. So the next step would be to get the key re synced with the computer and see if that will work. The only problem is that you will need to take it to a mechanic to get this done. Best to be done by ford but can be expensive

  • Jeremy Reddick
    Jeremy Reddick Feb 11, 2009

    Glad it worked if I did any good could you please rate me?

  • Jeremy Reddick
    Jeremy Reddick Feb 11, 2009

    Thanks man leave it to Ford huh?



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First do this if you tried cranking the car several times it is very possible you took out the crank sensor or threw the timing off also have the alternator tested and if it has been over 40,000miles replace the drivebelt also there is a 175amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood get a volt meter and switch the car on without starting it and you should have a 175amp volts do everything else first and if all fails test this please let me if I was able to help you with your problem

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

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SOURCE: the car didn't start without

SOUND LIKE ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING BATTERY.CHECK ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE OUT PUT AT THE BATTERY WITH ENGINE IDLING VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS. IF NOT ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR FAULTY. CHECK ALTERNATOR 80 AMP FUSE FIRST.ALSO MAKE SURE ALTERNATOR BATTERY FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES IN PLACE TIGHT AND WIRES NOT DAMAGED.MAKE SURE ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT HAS CORRECT TENSION NOT SLIPPING.TO KEEP FROM LOCKING OUT RADIO TURN OFF RADIO FIRST BEFORE REMOVING NEGATIVE BATTERY WHEN YOU GET READY TO REPAIR ALTERNATOR.

Posted on Aug 16, 2011

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