Question about 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab

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1997 Ram 5.9L Stalling Problem

I just picked up a used Ram a month or two and it had cracked heads so we dropped a new engine in it. It has the 5.9L V8 and runs fine when your giving it gas, but when you let off fast it wants to stall out and die. This is a big problem when at stop signs or lights. It doesn't do it all of the time, but it is pretty frequent. Some days it will start without a problem, other days you will have to give it gas and slowly let off until its at the right RPMS and it will stay there. However, hit the gas and let off and it will quickly die again. There is one temperature sensor running to the ECM that is not plugged in due to the fact that the new intake did not have the extra slot, but im not sure if this could be the problem as it shows the same symptoms running both cold and when warmed up. It is NOT the TPS, i have already been down that road and am 100% sure of that. Sometimes if i clean out the throttle body with some carb cleaner it will run better, but after 100 miles or so will start stalling again. Ive been told its the fuel pump or filter, pressure regulator, possibly a relay... im running out of money and i have to get the truck running, somebody please give some definite answers.

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  • Benji_shs Feb 08, 2009

    Yes, as soon as you let off it drops rapidly, as if you had just taken the key out. Lots of the time it doesnt try to catch itself as it should about 1500 RPMS and then idle down, it just bottoms out either to 200 RPMS and then goes back up or it completely dies

  • Benji_shs Feb 08, 2009

    ive tried cleaning the IAC before but i didnt get it too well. Originally we kept the old throttle body on the used engine we picked up, but after it continued to stall we changed it out for the one that came with the other engine we bought. It ran fine for about 2 weeks, or a hundred miles, and then started stalling again. Cleaned the throttle body some and it ran better but you could tell there was still a hint of the problem. Now its progressivly getting worse, which is where i am now.

  • Benji_shs Feb 08, 2009

    Oh and when i took the last IAC out to clean it, it broke on me(i think it was broke, i wasnt taking any chances since i had the other used one laying around and was easier to replace it and be safe). I was using carb cleaner and a rag and the bore kept turning and i thought it was normal, until the end popped up and exposed the spring and everything inside it. should i not turn it at all when i clean it?

  • Benji_shs Feb 08, 2009

    My neighbor told me about replacing the fuel filter and all too, im not too great with autos so im not completely sure where the fuel rail is located or what exactly it is. I dont really think it is a fuel problem in that sense because it has plenty of power when you get on the gas and never tries cutting back as long as your foots on the accelerator. Seems like if it was clogged somewhere it would want to cut back when accelerating but it never does(except it died randomly one time, i think that was related to other problems)

  • Benji_shs Feb 08, 2009

    Ok, its starting to make more sense now. The fact that the temp sensor was out made the truck run too lean or rich and started carboning up the TB, which in turn could have started gumming up the IAC. So last time when I cleaned the TB it ran a little better because the throttle body itself was clean but the IAC was still slightly gummed up. Which explains why it gets worse the more i drive it too. Still kind of odd that it will run perfectly fine some days and just want to die like hell on others. This morning i drove to baseball practice and it stalled twice on the neighborhood road, after practice it hardly gave me any trouble at all. First car ive ever owned.... really hasnt worked out too great so far

  • Jerry Koski
    Jerry Koski May 11, 2010

    i am not real good on dodges but does it have the EGR Valve ? if so these are bad at doing the thing you said .. just a thought .. they are also vacuum operated .. Jerry

  • George Rosenblad
    George Rosenblad May 11, 2010

    does it stall as soon as you let go of the throole?

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CHECK YOR OYXGEN SENSOR

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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The problem sound lik a dirt aic motor Air Idle Control. This should be on the throttle body in the back if memery servesme right it has two t25 torex screws in it .take it out and the end willbe bullet shaped. clean this up with a wire brush on a bench grinder , then use carb cleaner on a rag and clean out the bore .the aic is what controls minimum air if this is dirty the engine chochs when the throttle blades close.
remenber to if this coolant sensor that you state is missing the vehicle could be running to rich because the pcm thinks its coldthis could also lead to the aic getting carboned up

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

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  • George Rosenblad
    George Rosenblad Feb 08, 2009

    to rule out your fuel pump and filter Ibelieve they are one and the same as the drop in through the top of the fuel tank' put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if the fuel pressure drops off when the stalling accures.

  • George Rosenblad
    George Rosenblad Feb 08, 2009

    You are right you dont want to turn the bullet shaped end of the aic thats how it adjusts .the hole that you have in the throttle bodyis where you want to use the rag anthe end of your little finger. On the motor side a wire brush is sufficientwhen you shut your engine off the motor backs the bulletOut tho give you a high idle when you next start the engine as the engine warm up it pushs it in and dependind on load and temp the pcm makes it go back and forth.If it fell apart then it has to be replaced. after the new on is in and you drive around 35mph for a few minutes it will adjust itself. hope this helps I'm really sure your on the right track

  • George Rosenblad
    George Rosenblad Feb 08, 2009

    Are there any check engine lights on ?

  • George Rosenblad
    George Rosenblad Feb 08, 2009

    the fuel rail runs around the top of the intake where the injectors come out of . the will usally be a cap with a test port right on the rail

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It may be the IAC valve. The Idle control valve. You can clean this valve by spraying cleaner into the fuel system side. Remove the duct work from the air cleaning system. Look inside the hole of the fuel clylinder walls. you will see a couple of holes. That is the IAC. With the engine running at about 1200 RPMs spray cleaner aiming at the valve holes. Get a good 10 seconds of spray in there. Turn off the engine and let it soak into the valve. Then repeat the procedure. If it still does not clear up, remove the valve from the outside. Clean it. If it still does not work. Replace the IAC. it could also be the egr valve, fuel pressure regulator , etc. just as you mentioned. But try the above procedure out. Since you mentioned that if you cleaned the carb body. I thought about the IAC valve.

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

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