I have hard time to remove front wheel hub to access to bearing in order to replace it myself, if some one send me the passenger side front axial assembly diagram would be great or can help me with some tricks on this problem will be appreciated ..., thanks guys..
If it is a hub assembly you dont remove the bearing, its replaced as one piece. If the parts store sold you just the bearing you WILL NEED a press. There is no trick, you will only ruine the hub and bearing.
MAY BE THE SAME QUESTION BUT I NEED TO REMOVE THE ACTUAL WHEEL FROM THE AXLE BUT IT WILL NOT MOVE IS THERE SCREWS I AM MISSING HELP. I HAVE EVERYTHING READY INCLUDING REMOVING THE NUT OFF THE AXLE. HOW DO I ACCESS THE BEARING TO REPLACE IT
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front wheel bearing is pressed into hub and has retaining clip on rear and then cv axle shaft comes through center and has a nut and keeper pin. Rule of thumb is to replace both front wheel bearings at same time. raise front of vehicle place on jackstands for safety remove front wheels remove brake calipers remove front rotors and cv axles remove steering hub assy from lower ball joint,tie rod end and struts take hub to shop and have bearing pressed out have new bearings pressed in reassemble front wheels in reverse order of disassembly.
pull wheel remove grease cap undo carter key remove nut pull off rest of hub take bearings frt and rear out of hub clean old grease from bearings check bearing for defect install in revers order remender to install new grease in new bearings lots of grease and u will need new seals for same front and rear
The front wheel bearings on your Dodge Dakota allow the wheels to spin freely on the axle spindle. These sealed bearings may cause noise once they wear out, develop a pit on the races, bends and other damage that interfere with wheel performance. However, the front bearings form a single assembly with the wheel hubs and they should be replaced as a single unit. Fortunately, installing a new assembly is not a difficult process.
Removing the Hub/Bearing Assembly
Before raising the front wheel(s), loosen the half shaft nut using an axle nut socket. Then remove the wheel/tire assembly and the half shaft nut. If your particular Dakota model comes equipped with an Anti-lock Bake System (ABS) sensor, remove the sensor form its bracket and move it aside.
Now you are ready to remove the brake caliper and rotor. Make sure to secure the caliper to the coil spring using a piece of heavy wire. Do not let it hanging by the brake line to avoid damage to the brake hose attached to the caliper. With the caliper and rotor out of the way, you have access to the hub/bearing assembly mounting bolts.
On some models, you can only access the hub/bearing mounting bolts through the holes in front of the hub/bearing assembly. Rotate the assembly by hand as you loosen and remove the mounting bolts. Once you remove the bolts, you can detach the hub/bearing from the steering knuckle and halfshaft. If the bearing assembly seems stuck to the halfshaft, use a 3 jaw gear puller to remove it.
Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with wire, out of the way. Remove the caliper torque plate if equipped.
Remove the dust cap and then remove the cotter pin, lock washer (if equipped) nut lock and nut.
Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle with the outer bearing. Don't let the bearing fall out.
Pry the inner oil seal out and remove the inner bearing.
Clean and inspect the bearings and outer races.
Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive out the bearing outer race. Press a new one into position.
Pack the bearings with grease until it oozes out the other side. Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease.
Position the inner bearing into the hub, coat the oil seal with grease and press it into the hub.
Press the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing and thrust washer.
Install the hub nut. Turn the hub a few times to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut until there is 0mm axial play. Using a spring tension gauge, check that the preload (with new grease seal installed) is 2.2–6.4 lbs. (9.8–28.4N)
Install the lock-nut, new cotter pin and hub grease cap.
Install the brake torque plate. Install the brake caliper.
Install the wheels and lower the truck.
The hub and bearing service procedures for a 4wd models are basically the same as those for a 2wd version, with the exception of removing the free running hub assembly and the bearing preload adjustment. Refer to Sections 1 and 7 for additional information. Adjust the preload after the wheel bearing is replaced or the front axle assembly is reassembled.
BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
Thoroughly clean all parts and pack the wheel bearings.
Apply grease to threaded portions of the spindle, grease seal lip and wheel hub.
Tighten the wheel bearing lock-nut with a socket and torque wrench to 58–72 ft. lbs. (78–98 Nm).
Rotate the hub in both directions a few times to seat the bearings. Loosen wheel bearing lock-nut.
Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 2wd models
Fig. 2: Removing the bearing outer races
Fig. 3: Packing the wheel bearing with grease
Fig. 4: Pack the lip cavity of grease seal with grease
Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 4wd models
Measure wheel bearing axial end-play. The wheel bearing end-play specification is 0.
Install lock washer by tightening the lock-nut within 15–30 degrees.
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions. Wheel bearing should be seated correctly.
If necessary, measure wheel bearing preload.
NOTE: Measure wheel bearing preload with a spring-type gauge; measure at wheel hub bolt, with tire removed. The hub assembly should rotate with 1.6–4.7 lbs. (0.73–2.13 kg) of pressure.
Hub and Bearing Assembly
CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:
A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.
Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal. Removal
Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
Raise vehicle on hoist.
NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.
Metric Hub Remover Adapter
Front Hub Replacer
Turn Wrench Counterclockwise
Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench
Front Hub Remover/Replacer
Two Stud Adapter
Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)
Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.
NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.
Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .
NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.
Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
You can do it yourself just take your time:
To change front wheel bearing.
1. Jack car up support with jack stands
2. take tire off
3. take caliper and brakes off
4. take rotor off
5. unbolt axle shaft nut at bearing hub
6. use a 3 lb slug with a block of wood
7. place wood on axle shaft and knock it in
8. back side 3 10mm bolts unbolt
9. front side have to pry off bearing hub Assembly only beacuse has dirt in knuckle hole.
10. clean hub knuckle and reinstall.
Its really not that hard or you could have them done for $900 and up. (I have changed alot of wheel bearing assemblies )Whats your e-mail I can send you a diagram if you want.
Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel. .
Remove the brake rotor.
Disengage the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel drive shaft in order to protect the wheel drive shaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with the hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing at this time.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing from the steering knuckle by removing the three bolts coming in from the back side of the knuckle.
Of course you may have to use a hammer to loosen the bearing from the knuckle.