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Re: A/C fan and radiator fan aren't working
There should be a relay controlling them, check the relay comm for power.. You can connect the radiator fan driectly to the battery to prevent over heating. It has two wires, splice them and connect them to the battery via 2 other pieces of wire. In my opinion its very difficult to actually help with this one remotely since we would need to be on spot to test the circuit. I strongly suggest haveing an autoelectrican check this for you. YOu can connect the radiator fan directly to the battery to help you get there..
BTW the radiator contains a thermostat. this turns the fan on and off, of this is faulty you will have the problem you described. check the thermostat in the radiator.
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It's most likely the blower motor resistor or relay. My money is on the resistor. It's a pretty common issue on all makes and models of vehicles. I'm not sure where yours is located. Domestic cars and trucks have them on the top of the blower motor housing which is behind the glove box on the passenger side. A few torx bit screws remove the box liner, and a socket removes the couple of nuts holding the resistor on. Other than that, it's just a pigtail wire harness that plugs into it. Pretty easy job. The resistor for your vehicle (96 Saab 900 SE) is $53.99 locally here in Minnesota.
you may have blown the head gasket.
check the coolant level,is it low?
if it is ok,check the fan switch on the radiator,change the thermostat,and check that the fan is working.
the fan has to work,saab engines run very hot.
there is a after run fan switch as well that measures engine compartment temperature,and can start the fan even with the car off,so be careful.
cooling fan fuse should be third up from bottom on right on cabin fuse block. there may be another in power distribution center under the hood. Not sure if you mean radiator fan. to check, first hot-wire fan to battery. if it runs check fuse and relay. Radiator fan operates like this: coolant sensor sends signal to computer that sends ground signal to fan relay that then completes power circuit to fan. Difference in cabin fan is that the dash control sends signal to relay, then to resistor bloc, to fan motor.All electrical components require power and a good ground to operate properly.
You don't say whether your electric fans both work...
First, check fuses #25 and #6 (both 30 amp)
There is a fan thermoswitch is on the left side of the rad. Turn the ignition on, and after pulling back the boot, short across the two terminals with a screwdriver.
If the fan runs, fan and wiring are both good, but thermoswitch might be faulty.
fan only runs when thermoswitch is shorted like this, switch needs to be
replaced (I strongly recommend that you get the low temp switch to prevent overheating - your temp
gauge will not go over the middle position even on the hottest days;
also get a low temp thermostat,and ALWAYS get a Saab stat, not an after
market one! The SAAB stats are three position, and most after market ones aren't)
if the fan doesn't run when switch is shorted, check for voltage between green wire and ground at the switch.
Voltage indicates faulty fan, if no voltage then check the fan relay J in the main fuse box for the A/C rad fan, and also check relay G - it's for the rad fan.
the air distribution switch controls the air distribution and the fan, distribution switch in the 0 (straight down position) will be off. Car movement forces air into teh body, but with teh fan off there will be no air when the car stops. Does the fan run when the distribution switch is in any other position? it should respond to the speed settings of the fan switch.
There is a vacuum bottle accumulator that assists the distribution switch, sometimes this gets disconnected and the switch settings don't work.
Do you hear any noises if you turn the distribution knob while the car is running? suction noises, or flaps opening?
If not, then you likely have a vacuum problem (check for a white bottle in left front wheel housing, except convertible -> under the spare wheel, tank should have one or two vacuum lines connected to it (one for convertible). A disconnected or leaky line is the most likely cause.
Possible other causes are faulty air distribution switch; burned out fan motor; inoperative vacuum solenoid motors controlling air distribution flaps.
But check the vacuum accumulator first, if under the spare wheel, the lines are easily dislodged.
If the low speed fan doesn't come on, but the system works when cooling air is blown through it, that says that whatever temperature sensor is used is working. It also seems that, if the fuse is OK, then the switch for the fan isn't working. There should be a switch module down there near the fan (you'd see wires from the fan to a harness, and it'll plug into a module). I'd be willing to try replacing that switch and see if it solves the problem.