I'm trying to diagnose a problem with a 1985 Toyota Camry with 200,000+ miles and an automatic tranny. There is no check engine light. The car starts and idles fine. But, when you shift into drive it has extremely sluggish acceleration. If I manually shift into 1, the car accelerates normally. But, at any time, if I shift into Drive or 2, the car has extremely sluggish acceleration.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The problem with answering that question is that not enough CVT's have been on the road long enough to really do a good analysis of their longevity. I know that if taken care of, a conventional automatic transmission can go the distance. My mothers car was a 2004 Nissan CVT which has almost 200K and hasn't faltered one bit. You have to think about which one would be more expensive to repair/replace out of pocket. Which one is cheaper to service/maintain, I do know that CVT fluid is more expensive than conventional auto trans fluid. I personally like feeling the car shift, and the conventional would be my choice at that point based on aesthetics. I hope this info helps!
2005 Camry fuel filter is located in the gas tank and does not require servicing. It is supposed to last the life of the car. I have 200,000 miles on my older Camry(2005) and have only replaced the thermostat and gas cap. The toyota dealer told me to replace the evap can for $600 but I checked out online and only replaced the gas cap to resolve the evap code.
Have you try putting some Fuel System Cleaner addictive? If you have, then you haven't really try the only one that works -- Lucas Oil brand "Upper Cylinder & Fuel Injector Cleaner"
It is the best one and only one that works effectively. 3oz. will treat a 10 gallon gas tank. A small bottle cost $6 or you better buy a big 32oz. bottle for $12. Keep it and do it every other oil change.
If I were you, I will put it into two tank of gas back-to-back so your car's fuel system can get a good cleanup over a couple hundred of miles.
How did you try to obtain the codes? Did you short pins E1 and Te1 in the grey connector under the hood?
When the light comes back on, short the above pins, and get back to us.
Without seeing the codes, I would venbture a guess that you first consider a good tune-up, and use Toyota plugs only. Any other manufacturer will not work very well. I see this every day, new plugs, and the engine runs poor. Toyota plugs fixes it right up. The heat ranges are diffferent in Toyota plugs.