Question about 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

1996 jetta, drive shaft seals

How do you change the driveshaft seals? I can get the wheel and hub off, just wondering if there is a trick to pulling the axel out of the tranny.

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    New Friend:

    An expert that has 1 follower.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 24 Answers

Best way to remove the axle is yo place a prybar between the transmission and axle housing and give it a quick jolt. The axle is held in the transmission slines by a retainer ring so all you have to do is pop it out. But be careful not to tear the cv boot and do not pull on the shaft or you will seperate the cv joint. Good luck.. Hope this helps.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

I have an intermittant grinding on the front of my 2000 Kia when I go over bumps. the wheel bearings were already replaced because of this, but the grinding continues.


It seems as though you have changed everything.

A grinding noise is associated with something turning or rubbing against something. The only other thing that springs to mind are the drive shafts, which have splined ends. The link below will show you generic images of driveshafts
kia drive joints Google Search

Each end of the drive shaft is splined. One end fits into the gearbox and the other end attaches to the road hub of the road wheel.

It's usually the hub (universal joint that allows the wheel to turn)/ wheel end of the drive shaft that wears. It may be that the grinding noise has been more pronounced when turning? And the grinding noise is coming from just one side?

A new drive shaft isn't cheap although second hand ones are readily available. replacing a driveshaft isn't a particularly difficult job.

However, it may be an idea to get somebody to remove the brake calliper/rotor/ driveshaft hub and inspect the hub/splined end of the drivehaft. What you're looking for is worn, broken or chipped splines. If all seems okay try cleaning and repacking with driveshaft grease. It's probably the hub - the bit that allows the wheel to turn - as opposed to the splines -there's bearings inside that hub (also known as a universal joint). There's no real way of examining that hub other than replacing the driveshaft

Mar 02, 2016 | Kia Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove axle from front of 1998 windstar


  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
  4. Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
  5. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
  6. Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
  1. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
  1. Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
  2. Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
  3. Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
  1. Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
  1. Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install:
Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
  1. Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
  1. Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
  2. Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
  3. Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
  1. Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
  1. Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
  2. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
  3. Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
  1. Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
  2. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  3. Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.

Jul 07, 2014 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Transfer case on 2006 F150 will engage but no power to front wheels?


SOUNDS LIKE A BAD HUB TRY THIS TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM

Put the transmission in park, set the parking brake and raise the chassis so one of the front wheels is off the ground while the other is still on the ground. When the transfer case is in two-wheel drive, the hubs should be released allowing the wheels to turn freely when spun by hand. If the axle shaft turns when you spin the wheel, it means the hub has not disengaged.
To check engagement, rotate the axle shaft backwards. This should lock the hub. Try turning the wheel by hand again. The axle shaft should now turn with the wheel if the hub is locked. If the hub fails to lock, the hub will have to be disassembled and inspected or replaced.
To check release, hold the axle shaft steady and rotate the wheel backwards. You should hear a click as the locking mechanism slides back out and disengages the hub. Rotate the wheel forward again and it should turn freely.
Another way to check the hubs is to raise the vehicle on a frame contact lift so all four wheels are off the ground. Then start the engine and place the transfer case in four-wheel drive and the transmission in drive. If the front wheels don't turn, look at the front axle shafts. If both shafts are turning, but one wheel is not, the problem is a bad hub on the wheel that isn't turning. If the front driveshafts are not turning when the transfer case is in four-wheel drive, the problem is inside the differential (broken side gears) or the transfer case (broken chain, shift linkage, etc.). If the driveshaft between the transfer case and differential is turning, the problem is in the differential. If the driveshaft is not turning, the vehicle is going to need repairs to the transfer case.
Hope this helps.

Dec 28, 2010 | 2006 Ford F-150

1 Answer

2002 f250 4wd, 7.3 psd. noticed today while


the wheel bearing is the cause, it has a support bearing that hold the axle in place.

Oct 04, 2009 | 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab

1 Answer

Change a cv boot on a 1996 isuzu trooper


First their are two different front axles in 1996 troopers. Isuzu changed the 4wd system from auto lock hubs to drive control axle.auto lock hube are on the older trooper's with the light and wiper switches on the dash. The same way to change both. Auto hub remove the six hex. screws slide off the hub remove the sirclip from the driveshaft. Newer hub has 6 alan-head screw's again remove them then the hubcap then the sirclip on the shaft and slide off the round spacer. Next 4 bolts from the lower balljoint and the brake's. Pull out the hub until it clear's the shaft remove the inner boot clips slide the inner boot out the shaft. Clean the grease from the end of the axle then with your fingernail feel along any of the 3 tracks in the axle and near the outer end of the track you will find a wirelike split ring slide a screwdriver under the ring and lever it off . Pull out the drive clean off the grease. You will see a sirclip on the end of the joint remove it and slide off the joint. You can replace either boot from that end. The outer joint is held on with a snap ring on the shaft inside the joint and is not easily removed need a hammer and drift to drive off the end and when removed its hard to get the snap ring on the shaft back into its place.You can change both boots from this end as well. Cheers

Sep 28, 2009 | 1994 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Frt. wheel bearings 2003 h-2


2003 Hummer H2 V8-6.0L VIN U
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair
WHEEL HUB, BEARING, AND SEAL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTE: Never place vehicle on the ground with the halfshaft removed or the halfshaft nut torqued improperly. Otherwise, bearing seals may become
dislodged causing premature wear and/or damage to the hub and bearing assembly.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the tire and wheel.
3. Remove the rotor.
4. Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
5. Disconnect the electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel driveshaft nut retaining cover.
7. Remove the wheel driveshaft assembly retaining nut and washer from the wheel driveshaft assembly.
Disengage the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing.
8. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts.
9. Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
10. Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore.
11. Remove the wheel speed sensor from the wheel hub and bearing.
12. Clean and inspect the O-ring seal.
13. Replace the seal it the following conditions exist:
- Nicks
- Cuts
- Dry or brittle
- Compression set
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing assembly.
2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
3. Install the O-ring to the steering knuckle.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the wheel speed sensor to the wheel hub and bearing.
Tighten
Tighten the sensor mounting bolt to 18 N.m (13 lb ft).
5. Install the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield to the vehicle.
6. Install the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel hub to knuckle bolts to 180 N.m (133 lb ft).
7. Install the nut and washer retaining the wheel drive shaft assembly to the wheel hub and bearing.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 210 N.m (155 lb ft).
8. Connect the electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor.
9. Install the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
10. Install the rotor.
11. Install the tire and wheel.
12. Lower the vehicle.
907ae15.jpg


Sep 15, 2009 | 2003 Hummer H2

1 Answer

DRIVESHAFT SEALS REPLACE


Have to remove wheel, have someone push brakes on & undo nut to shaft in center of hub, undo lower ball joint on control arm & pry it out, move lower control arm out from shaft, then remove shaft from transmission, then do seal. Don't forget, going back in shaft should snap in.( little retainer ring on end.)

Apr 12, 2009 | 1985 Chrysler New Yorker

3 Answers

Replace outer cv boot mazda 323 1985


NO - Here are the steps involved....

Raise the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.
  1. Remove the front wheels and splash pan. Raise the tab on the wheel hub locknut, and then have someone apply the brakes as you loosen the nut.
  2. Remove the tow nuts, bushings, and washers, then disconnect the stabilizer bar from the steering knuckle.
  3. Remove the clinch bolts and nuts, then pry the lower control arm downward in order to separate the steering knuckle and lower ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint dust cover.

On the left side:
  1. Insert a lever (for automatic transaxles, you'll have to use a chisel) between the driveshaft and transaxle case (don't go in too for, or you will damage the seal). Tap the end of the pry bar or chisel lightly to pull the shaft out of the case just until it unlocks.
  1. Remove the driveshaft locknut from the center of the brake rotor. Pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the wheel hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, pull the driveshaft straight out of the transaxle, supporting the joint on the transaxle side to prevent damage to the seal. Seal the transaxle opening with a clean rag.

On the right side:
  1. Insert a lever between the joint shaft and driveshaft, then gently tap on the outer end of the lever to separate the two shafts.
  1. Remove the driveshaft locknut, then pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the front hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, disconnect the driveshaft from the cross-shaft completely.
  2. If it is necessary to remove the cross-shaft, remove the cross-shaft mounting bracket bolts, then remove the shaft and bracket as an assembly, being careful not to disturb the position of differential gears. Cover the opening in the differential case with a clean rag.
    1. Installation is the reverse of removal, but note these points:
    1. Check the transaxle oil seal for damage and replace it if necessary.
    2. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft or cross-shaft where they are locked into the differential gears in the transaxle.
    3. Install the shafts into the transaxle carefully to avoid damage to the oil seal. Push the joint in on the differential side. Check the differential gears for alignment before attempting to install the shafts. If they are not aligned, turn them with your finger, as necessary.
    4. After installation, pull the hub forward to make sure the driveshaft remains locked in the transaxle.
    5. Install a new locknut onto the outer end of the driveshaft, adjusting wheel bearings as described in . Crimp the tabs over after they are aligned with the groove in the driveshaft.
    6. Tighten the stabilizer bar link nut until 1 in. (25mm) of thread is exposed.
    7. Torque the lower control arm-to-ball joint nut and bolt to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm).
    8. Torque the control link for the lower arm and stabilizer bar to 9-13 ft. lbs. (12-18 Nm); except for the 1988-89 626s and MX-6s on which it should be 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
    9. Refill the differential with fresh fluid meeting proper specifications.
  • Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

    Apr 10, 2009 | 1986 Mazda 323

    1 Answer

    I have a Disco II and the wheel hub bearing went and i'm tryign to change it but i cant seem to get the hub off, can any one help with a step to step guide or something, thanks.


    RAVE says the following:
    1) Release ABS Sensor harness grommet from inner wing valance and disconnect multi plug.
    2) Raise front of vehicle.
    3) Remove road wheel.
    4) Pull ABS Sensor harness through aperture into wheel arch.
    5) Release harness from brackets on inner wing valance, suspension turret and front hub.
    6) Release stake from drive shaft nut
    7) Remove drive shaft nut with assistance & discard.
    8) Remove front brake disk (Remove calliper, pad holder, screw and tap to remove)
    9) Remove 4 bolts securing wheel hub to steering knuckle.
    10) Release wheel hub from steering knuckle then remove wheel hub and drive shaft assembly from axle. DO NOT REMOVE ABS SENSOR FROM HUB. HUB AND SENSOR ARE SUPPLIED AS AN ASSEMBLY.
    11) Position the wheel hub and drive shaft on a press, place supports beneath the wheel studs and press the drive shaft from the wheel hub.
    12) Remove drive shaft oil seal from axle casing.

    Refit is mostly the reverse, you need to take care to lubricate things in the right places and put loctite on the drive shaft and locate the loom and torque everything right.

    Mar 24, 2009 | 1999 Land Rover Discovery

    1 Answer

    Banging noise in 4 wheel drive under torque. front hub questions.


    Hello scotch1812, those of us that still enjoy the square headlights have to stick together! The front axle in our YJ's are dana 30 with a high pinion! The high pinion make the ring and pinion spin in a reverse rotation from the dana 30 found in CJ and TJ Jeeps. When Chrysler designed the YJ front axle, they removed the manual hubs like those found in CJ models and installed a vacuum disconnect on the passenger side axle shaft. The passenger side axle shaft is 2 piece with a sleeve that is moved into place to connect the 2 pieces of axle shaft when you shift the transfer case into 4 wheel drive. This is done via a vacuum module mounted on the axle housing. If your module diaphram goes bad you have no 4WD! If your vacuum hose comes off of the module or breaks you have no 4WD. Now when your transfer case is in 2WD the front driveshaft does not turn. The vacuum disconnect allows this to happen. As for the hubs, they are simply hubs with sealed bearings and a universal joint to allow your front wheels to turn left and right. If you hear the banging noise in 2WD it could be a bad universal joint in one of your axle shafts.

    Now if you are hearing the banging noise only when you are in 4WD there could be a number of reasons. You could have a broken axle shaft or a bad bearing in your ring and pinion. Your front driveshaft could be bent or at least not straight. I would start with the driveshaft. Just lay under the Jeep (Not running! With emergency brake set!) and spin the front driveshaft. If it spins true and doesn't have an out of round rotation we can rule that out! Also, grab it and push it and pull it to check to see if your universal joints in the drive shaft are gor and tight! They can make a grinding noise or popping noise if they are bad!

    Try these and let me know what you find! We will find your problem!

    map6260

    Mar 13, 2009 | 1992 Jeep Wrangler

    Not finding what you are looking for?
    1996 Volkswagen Jetta Logo

    Related Topics:

    354 people viewed this question

    Ask a Question

    Usually answered in minutes!

    Top Volkswagen Experts

    Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland

    Level 3 Expert

    21949 Answers

    yadayada
    yadayada

    Level 3 Expert

    61249 Answers

    Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte

    Level 3 Expert

    6812 Answers

    Are you a Volkswagen Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

    Answer questions

    Manuals & User Guides

    Loading...