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There maybe a problem with starter motor? Some of the national brand auto stores will test starter for you. Of course, you have to take it off and take it to them.
You could take the starter off, lay it on the ground, Hook up jumper cables properly from starter to battery. The starter should kick-out the drive gear and spin. If starter drive gear kicks out and in, something is wrong. Anymore I replace starter solenoid and starter motor as an assembly.
It wouldn't hurt anything to check flywheel teeth while your at it.
The starter solenoid mounted on top of the starter has two functions, as the key is operated the solenoid slides the starter pinion to engage the flywheel, THEN operates heavy duty contacts to power the motor. The solenoid is not engaging the pinion.
Yes the etc light will stay on and the problem is with 2-3 shift solenoid there is a electrical connector on the side of the transmission near radiator. you can test the circuit with DVOM meter to find the faulty solenoid.
The following assumes that you get a 'click' when trying the starter. You need at test light or meter to troubleshoot--put the test light (meter) on the starter motor terminal, and have someone try the starter. If it turns on the light, the starter motor itself is bad. If no light comes on, then move the test point to the battery cable side of the solenoid and try for start again. If the light came on at first, but went out, check the positive battery cable connection at the battery--it may have corroded the copper wire inside the cable at the terminal or the terminal connection to the battery may need to be cleaned. If the light at the solenoid stayed on, then the starter solenoid is defective--replace it. Hope this helps!
There are 4 solenoids in the transmission, they are all supplied 12V through a common pink wire, and grounded individually by the computer. There are two solenoids for the tcc, one is called the tcc application solenoid, the other is the tcc PWM (pulse width modulation) solenoid. I'm not positive, but I believe the PWM solenoid faciitates the smooth engagement and disengagement of the tcc, but the application solenoid controls the bulk of the hydraulic pressure. If you want to check the resistance of these solenoids, the application solenoid is grounded through the tan/black wire, so you should see aproximately 28 ohms resistance between the pink wire and the tan/blk wire as they go into the transmission. The tcc PWM solenoid should have a resistance of about 12 ohms and you would measure this between the pink wire and the brown wire. The transmission should be electrically disconnected when you do these tests.
2nd click could be fuel pump engaging...what about the fuses under the hood... is there gas getting to the engine?? is there a safety shut off switch that needs resetting? have you checked the ground wire?