Car won't run.Turns over & sputters, but won't stay running.
Yesterday, I noticed thicker exhaust, like burning oil. I drove home about 2 hr drive. Today wouldn't start. Removed the air filter cover & tryed. Now, this aien't suppose to happen, the gas seemed to backfire out the intake. Tried a few more times & a flame shot out instead of just backfireing. I recently replaced the thermostat & water pump for over heating. Just got oil change 2 days ago. Tune up last summer. The car has 181,000 mi.
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Re: Car won't run.Turns over & sputters, but won't stay...
How hot did it get before you chg. thermostat? Could have jumped time, timming chain maybe, cracked head, or head gasget. whatever it is don't sound good. Oil smoke, flame throer, that meny mi. motor junk........ Not what you want to hear i know.
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just about everyone does with either an old car or a new car with high mileage.how excessive? is oil consumption.well first thing is to check for oil leaks either underneath the motor or any oil lines feed into the motor .any major leaks would be pretty noticeable.if none are present then one would assume that your motor is burning the oil through the exhaust system .check to see what color smoke is coming threw the tail pipe.blue or black smoke indicates oil burning white will indicate engine coolant burning.in any case some color smoke is normal just depends on how much.so lets say your exhaust smoke is normal still could be burning oil just not a noticeable amount.on average you shouldnt have to add anymore than 2 quarts a month or every 1000 miles .depending on your driving conditions if you are having to add more than this there would be a leak some where or heavy color smoke.keep up on oil changes and always add lucas oil usually 1 quart its alot thicker than conventional oil so it reduces engine wear and will handle any small leaks in the engine components like the pistons and rings.if problem still present get to a dealer or certified mechanic as soon as possible good luck.
check the plugs again and see if they are oily again, if they are NOT oily check the ignition coil if it is giving current to all four plugs, if not ,change it.it might be shorting out when it is hot.........If the plugs are oily again, and assuming the valve cover has been changed,sorry to say you have an internal eng.piston ring problem. more tests must be done to pin point the problem.
is the coolant level staying full or do you have to add ? the moisture in oil cap is normal for an engine that sets, condensation forms as the engine cools down.the smoke you noticed may have been moisture burning off the exhaust as the engine warms to normal operating temp. you need to drive the truck to see if it starts to overheat or run poorly. letting it set or just starting it up for a while will most likely not help find a problem.
sounds like a fuel pump failure,check the fuel line pressure with a gauge ,on the fuel delivery pipe where the injectors are their is a valve like a tyre valve ,you should read 55lbs here for it to work properly.
If your test drive was short, but your drive home is longer, it could be a coolant leak. Coolant creates a thick white smoke when it burns. If it's coming out of the tailpipe, then it must be coming through the engine at some point, possibly from a failing head gasket.
A fairly inexpensive test for this is to drain and flush the radiator, refilling it with water, running the engine to warm it up, then drain and flush again, refilling it with water. Be sure to drain and flush the overflow reservoir as well if you can. And please be careful working with a hot radiator - steam burns skin very easily. This should remove at least 75% of the ethyl glycol antifreeze that causes the smoke.
Now, when you run the car up to temperature, if it still smokes white, but much, much less, then it is in fact coolant leaking into the engine and being vaporized and pushed out through the exhaust. The most likely point of failure is the head gasket - which means a several hundred dollar fix.