I have a 1988 Ford Bronco 11(manual transmission) which I cannot get the slave cylinder disconnect line off.I'm trying to get the disconnect tool on it,not sure were to put it.I thought it would go somewhere between the line and plastic sleeving but there is no space to even insert the tool.I don't know if the plastic sleeving is jammed up with the metal housing of the disconnect.You can see about 3/16" before the metal housing.Don't Know if I'm going at this all wrong or what,never did one before.Please help ,Jeff
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Re: slave cylinder disconnect
Insert the tool in front off the plastic sleeve they are prone to be stuck. this is very common . as a rule off thumd i replace the master and the slave when iam doing the clutch any way and at times i have had to replace the line because it would not come of . you can disconnect the line at the master by removing the roll pin that holds the line
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Transmission removal will be required for replacement of the slave cylinder as well as a special tool needed to disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder. You can anticipate it being a 6-7 hour job having the correct tools on hand
You have a m5 (mazda 5 spd) transmission. Same thing that is in my 96 f150 4x4.
Ford had a problem with the slave cyclinders on thoes trannys. The slave is mounted inside the bellhousing and wraps aroung the input shaft, eliminating the need for a fork.
I am willing to bet my next paycheck that you have brakefluid inside the bellhousing.
Ford has a revision on that slave cylinder. because there is no dust boot on it, clutch material gets to the seal and tears it up, and because of the heat the seal will fail.
Replace your clutch, Flywheel (will have brake fluid burned into it), Slave cylinder, and possibly the line going to the slave (sometimes the realease locks up).
Make sure you get the slave from FORD, it is around $100.00, about 2x as much as anyone else but well worth it. I have not found anyone but ford make it with the boot and upgraded seal. If you get one from a parts store it will only last about 3 months. I tried, first one went out in 3 months, had it warrentied, then second only lasted 2.5 months. I finnaly brokedown and paid the extra for a FORD and it at 11 months it is still going strong.---------------------------------------------------- Launch X-431 IV Auto Scanner
There is a special tool to push the white collar down to remove the line from the clutch slave cylinder. Most clutch kits come with this tool but it is easily available from most parts stores. If you have the tool, lubricate the sleeve and push the line into the slave cylinder to release the holding fingers, then push on the sleeve with the tool and pull straight out on the line to remove. Sometimes they can be a pain. another solution is remove the whole line up to the master cylinder with it, you just have to route it accordingly. I have done this with some that wont disconnect.
bit of a job but you can do it remove driveshaft
remove cross bar (most models) disconnect the transfer case disconect the slave cylinder and all the lines going to the cooler support the motor take the trany bolts loose and pull the transmission out
remember that they are heavy ( replace the clutch
use the alinment tool reinstall the new clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing assembly
reinstall the trans /transfer case and drives shafts
crossbar and all the little stuff cooling lines etc
slave cylinder etc good luck
the slave cylinder is in the bellhousing you have to remove the trans to get to it ( and be careful you need a quick disconnect tool to remove the lines
if you break one you will be opening a can of worms
it's tuff to fix
your output seal on the tranny or input seal on your transfer case is bad. you have to pull your transfer case to tell. this is a pretty straight forward job. block wheels. put transfer case in neutral. drop front and rear drive lines.diconnect transfer case shift linkage. there is a short commponent connecting the trans to the transfer case. the bolt on either end face each other. remove the bolts to the transmission. the transfer case is heavier than it looks, i suggest getting help. pull back on the transfer case until it will drop down. it will pull out a bit because of the trans output shaft. replace what will probibly turn out to be the tranny output shaft seal and reassemble in reverse order.