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Re: How do you bleed the clutch in a 1991 Jeep Wrangler?
If replacing just the fluid, you should gravity bleed it by opening the valve at the side of the transmission where the line goes in to connect with the slave cylinder. Be sure to stand by and keep the tiny reservoir from going empty during bleeding, or you just make things worse. Assume you replaced parts. Is this right or wrong?
Or are you just trying to restore performance in a poorly operating system? Would help TONS to know these details, and how much you know about bleeding, etc. If you are trying to bleed a new slave cylinder, it can take 600 to 1800 pumps of the clutch pedal sometimes to clear it out manually. If you want instructions on how to bleed in with vacuum assistance, please post request comment to that effect.
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You need to do this with a vacuum bleeder like those made by MITYVAC, they cost about $30 and are available at most better auto parts stores and some retailers like Walmart (not sure on that). The tool comes with full instructions and adapters for most clutch bleeder ports.
Check the clutch fluid level. If it's low, add some (takes brake fluid). There is a bleed valve down on the clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing. Open the bleed valve and have someone push the clutch pedal slowly to floor, and hold. Close the bleed valve, and repeat until fluid comes out in a steady stream when the pedal is depressed. Your pedal should have pressure now, and the clutch should be working. If no fluid is forced out the clutch master cylinder, into the line, and to the slave cylinder when clutch is pressed, then you may have a bad clutch master cylinder. If fluid does come out the bleed valve, but still no pressure on the pedal, it may be a bad slave cylinder. Post back for more. Would like to know what you find out, and what the problem was, OB. Good luck.
This all depends if this is a hydraulic clutch or if its cable operated, you can only bleed hydraulic clutches, to bleed it you would bleed at the ******, you will see the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder that operates the clutch fork.
1. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Raise and support vehicle. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder screw on bleed line of slave cylinder. See Fig. 1 (attached in link) . Place other end of hose in glass container 1/2 full of brake fluid. Loosen bleeder screw while holding bleeder screw fitting.
2. Have an assistant depress clutch pedal to the floor. Tighten bleeder screw and release clutch pedal. Repeat bleeding procedure until fluid entering container is free of bubbles. DO NOT allow reservoir to run out of fluid during bleeding. Refill clutch master cylinder reservoir.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow bleed line to bend or flex when loosening bleeder screw.
U have what is called a hydraulic clutch, one of the hydraulic cylinders hs failed, there is a master and a slave cylinder. The most likely and most common cylinder to fail is the slave cylinder, this requires the transmission to be pulled out to replace it. the art is around $125.00, while the trans is out u might as well replace the clutch, the labor is about the same. Here is a picture of the part, let me know if u can see it.
There is a bleeder on the drivers side of the transmission follow the tube from the clutch master cylinder if you cannot find it. Pump the clutch up and hold it down then open the bleeder repeat till air is gone. May have to bleed again after driving a bit. If you want to bleed the clutch master cylinder run a tube from where the line goes into the cylinder and take the cap off and run the tube into the fluid (make sure its in the fluid) then pump the clutch slowly until no air bubbles. I just replaced my clutch master cylinder this is where the information comes from hope it helps you out!