I have a 2003 ford winstar and I have brake fluid leaking between the Master cyc. and the brake booster. I made sure the two units were tight but to no avail. Can you tell me what is causing this? Thank You
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Re: brake fluid leak
There is Supposed to be a Gasket Between the Booster and Master Cylinder. If this Gasket is Gone it will leak like this. If it is Still There, You may need a New Master Cylinder or Booster Depending on what you find when you get it Opened up. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!
Your master cylinder has a seal where the plunger goes into it. It is leaking fluid into the brake booster. There is no fluid seal between the 2 units so tightening it will not help. You should replace it ASAP. If the fluid sits in the booster too long, it will cause the rubber inside to swell and break. That will cause it to leak vacuum. If that happens, you'll be replacing the master cylinder and the booster.
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Re: brake fluid leak
Your master cylinder rear plunger seal is faulty you must either purchase rebuild kit or have it rebuilt but usually its just better to purchase a new master cylinder or a remanned one is usually cheaper, I would not recommend buying or trying a used one with brakes, ya just dont want to skimp when it comes to brakes ya know? but I can recommend a good place to get a good price.....ebay! if not call these guys no sales tax and will beat out most parts stores Peach street auto 18003652341
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Sounds like you have an air lock in your distribution block or it could be a bad distribution block all together. Sometimes you can tap it lightly and the air lock will bleed out. Also check your vacuum booster. If it is real hard to press the brake petal down, with the motor running, the vacuum booster diaphragm is blown, or there is a vacuum leak in the line to the booster. Pull the vacuum line off the booster with the engine running to see if there is vacuum to the booster, this will likely make the engine stall out if the booster is working properly. A little trick I do when bleeding my brakes is take about 16 inches of clear tubing that fits the bleeder, then get a quart Mason jar stick the tubing that is attached to the bleeder into the jar, then add about and inch of brake fluid to the jar and start pumping the petal. Always keep an eye on the jar and your master cylinder as to not let the master cylinder run out, or the jar to overflow. Hope this helps, good luck. If I think of something else I'll do another post.
This is a standard Vacuum operated brake booster.. If you are having fluid leaking at the rod that attaches the brake pedal to the booster it is a bad Master Cylinder. The Brake fluid will eventually destroy the diaphram in the booster if it hasn't already. . Replace or rebuild the Master Cylinder and wash the brake fluid out of the booster. When the booster goes bad the brake pedal will become very hard to push.. because you will have lost "boost" This is not really a hard job. If fluid id leaking somewhere else.it should be very easy to spot.. Brake fluid looks like oil leaking..
first check on every wheel make sure you see no wet . from brake cyclinders leaking. make sure brake fluid is full. when you replaced master cyc. did you bleed that before you hooked lines to it if not do that. abd bleed all brakes again. if still pedal goes down then it is the brake booster its self. hope this helps.
If there is no visible leaking at the wheels around the braking assembly's, then the fluid will be leaking out he back of the blake master cylinder into the vacuum booster. The master cylinder is where you have been topping up the brake fluid and the booster is the big black thing the master cylinder is bolted to. You need to have this looked at by a mechanic for proper repair (unless you really trust someone),as brakes are something I think are important to a vehicles operation.
Just as a note, there is no need to buy a new master cylinder, as most brake places would have exchange units available.
Not likely that the booster is an issue. The booster would not be able to overcome the brake fluid compression.
First open and inspect all brakes for leaks, adjustment, etc. Check all brake lines.
So if no leaks, did the fluid go low in the MC? If so, pad consumption would eat more than a MC reservoir of fluid, and not require MC replacement, but rebleeding and top up of fluid. If the pads are worn, and you replace them, often this will expel air back through the MC.
If you determine the MC is faulty, bench bleed the new one before install, or you will have lots of problems getting air out....
Sounds to me like a major vacuum leak if when you say the brakes are tight. Do you mean the pedal is real hard. If this is the case, Your power booser for your brakes are done by vacuum. If you know where your master cylinder is (where you put the brake fluid), the master cylinder is bolted to is the brake power booster. If you look at the picture below it will kind of look like that (the one in the picture is from a Nissan but looks the same). You can see in the picture on the top left of the unit is a inlet going in. That is where a major vacuum line goes. Check that line from the booster to where it attaches to the engine. Make sure it is connected and without holes and stuff in it. The reason I feel this may be your problem (and i may be way off) is that you say it accelerates by itself and sounds like it's gonna blow. To me the sound could be the air you hear leaking and the car accelerating by itself could be due to high idle because of a vacuum leak. the booster itself could be leaking as well as it has a diaphram in it that could break and cause a vacuum leak and you would hear it as well. I hope I am on the right path for you and can only go by what I am reading and that is what it sounds like to me. I hope this helped and good luck. Here is the picture:
1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.
Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!