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If you removed the tensioner and didn't lock the cams and crank down then you have to re-time the engine. It sounds like you let the exhaust and intake cams move.
Remove the spark plugs, put a ratchet on the crank pulley, slowly rotate engine until the cams line up. Once the cams are lined up remove, the timing belt and bring the crank around to the timing mark. put belt back on and let the tensioner go. put plugs back in...see if it'll start.
They didn't get the timing correct. One tooth off will pop a code. Causes rough running. In my case the tensioner didn't put enough tension on the belt. I had to take it back apart and pry on the tensioner to get the pressure up, then lock it down.. Got rid of the codes(both sides).
Yeah, it's time for the timing belt. The crank and the cams sensors have to be on the the exact timing marks. When the belt gets old and start to stretch, it will pop the code. If you do it yourself, get a manual for it and follow it to a "T"
There's a dot on the cam and a mark on the head turn the cam over with a ratchet and socket it should pop into place be sure to line up both cams one on each head and the bottom on the crank there's a mark on the pulley for the belt you should buy the timing belt kit it comes with new idler pulleys and you should also change the water pump while your in there it runs off the timing belt the new timing belt I put on had dots on it to help line up the timing marks
line up the lines on the belt with the dots on the sprockets and you cant miss.there is also two small dimples on the cover behind the cam sprockets that you can use to line up dots on face of cam sprockets with.the belt should have marks to indicate which side faces outward toward front of vehicle.turn crankshaft until dot on its sprocket is in roughly the five oclock position.align solid line on belt with this dot(area of belt with words on it will need to be between cam sprockets.i find it helpful to wedge a piece of cardboard between belt and lip on oil pump to hold belt in position on crank sprocket.next align the next solid line with the tooth on the DRIVERS cam sprocket that has the dot on it.....this shoul be roughly two oclock position.lastly align the hashed line on belt withdot on passenger side cam sprocket....this will be in roughly the 11 oclock position.loop remainder of belt behind tensioner pulleyand set tension.as long as themarks on the belt line up with marks on sprockets properly you cant miss.
Lexus Is very particular on thier settings for the timing.It has to be on the mark, with no slack. They will run, But if the belt is not super tight it will throw timing faults. When I do timing jobs I use a pry bar and put as much pressure that I can on the belt tensioner.before I tighten it down. This assures me that the is no slack and actually stretches the belt. very little stretch, but it does. Since I started doing this I haven't had any problems with any timing jobs that I do.
i think you will have to be more specific here as iam not sure exactly what you mean ,if the timing belt has marks on the back for timing then as you turn engine the belt will only align up with these marks once every 500 or so turns ,so long as the marks are correct to start with and none of the gears have moved when appluing the tension to the belt then their is nothing to worry about ,just make sure the bottom pulley nut is tight and you applied some locktight on the thread then no problem ,if you had put white paint on the gears/backplate then you see that when you turn the engine they line up again but the white lines do not
if it's a dual overhead cam then each head has two cams and two pully's, a single overhead cam engine has one cam and one pulley on each head. if the belt has more than 60,000 miles on it you should replace it. you need to find out if the engine is an interference engine or not to determine the level of damage caused if the belt has jumped or slipped. your overhead cam timing marks are usually on the cam faces and the backing plate behind the cam or sometimes there's two marks on the cam that you align with the surface of the head behind them. the first thing you need is a diagram of the belt routing and mark positions because timing marks are very important especially on an interference engine. starting or cranking an interference engine with the timing marks misaligned can bend all your valves or even punch holes in your pistons! so proper alignment is crucial, good luck.
Depending on make and size of engine u need to get the #1 piston at tdc top dead center u do this by taking the spark plug out of the #1 cylinder put yure finger in sparkplug hole and turn cranshaft till u feal yure finger being pushed out by compression now take a straw and put it in the spark plug hole u will need a breaker bar on larger engines to turn the crank with the bolt on the pully small 4 cyl u can turn it by hand once u feal the straw being pushed out of the whole turn the crankshaft back and forth to get the straw exactly where its all the way up just before it goes back down yure at tdc now on the gears there is a dot or a mark on the front side line them up using a straight edge line them up so both marks are on the inside facing one another pull both gears out leave the bigger of the two on the shaft place the belt on the smaller of of the cam shaft now u want to put the belt on the bottom side of larger gear and try and get the teeth so the top and bottom gear marks line up again when u push cam gear on splean of cam shaft if they apear to b lined up a little at a time push crankshaft gear n a bit then cam shaft gear switching between the two till they are all the way seated and there u go