86 Hyundai Exel Idles fast and no power in higher gears
Engine starts great cold but when engine heats up it idles around 1700 rpm and stays there. some of the vacuum hoses coming off the carb are plugged and one is missing completely. First gear is ok for power, second gear ok again, third car runs great as soon as i put it in fourth no acceleration. no jam. unless i drop back to third and get the car up to around 100 kph(Im canadian eh!) I can maintain speed on the flats as soon as i come to a little incline back to third. Really sucks when whole family in the car. Dont have the money for mechanic and no library in town to find where vac hoses go. If anyone can help Id be forever grateful
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Not an uncommon issue for one to idle fast while cold but , 2000 rpms is a little higher than normal. May want to check the engine coolant temperature sensor for proper voltage and the coolant level. Also, check for small vacuum leaks around the throttle body gasket.
Water temperature is low cost oil is certainly the easiest way is with a hard shell to block part of the warming effect of the radiator well as for how much you want to try to stop. Idle temperatures will rise up relatively low. What is the pull speed? Not run fast but continues to run uninterrupted some time. Usually two hours can be. Is to allow the engine to reach full swell purpose. Such a shift is to be based on the vehicle speed and the reference engine speed. Not based on the engine speed. Driving is probably the single 30 towards third gear, fourth gear towards forty, fifty five-speed ahead. Many people on the car ahead of change. As long as the engine sounds smooth, no trailer can be.
This is normally the way it is suppose to work. You need to have the RPM measured for High RPM and duration. What you are describing is how an electronic choke is suppose to work.
The errors would be how high the RPM goes and for how long it lasts. When cold the RPM, fuel mix and timing are changed to give a rich fuel mix. As the O2 sensors warm(Could be defective) they signal the engine to lean up. The water thermostat also has something to do changing the engine to a lean running slow condition.
If obtaining heat from your heater seems to take Forever, the thermostat could be weak. This would coincide with the engine continuing at a high RPM longer because it is not warming up.
Yeah it sounds kinda high. There is no adj except for the idle screw on the throttle, the computer does the rest, if it has one. If not, then you can adjust it some how. If carbureted, check for 2 little screws in the front, and check the choke, If throttle body, then just the idle screw, the idle should be around 1000. Hope this helps.
YOU MUST GET THE COMPUTER CODES FIRST TO SEE WHAT THE AREA TOO LOOK FOR COULD BE SIMPLE LIKE A VACUME HOSE/ INTAKE LEAK/ BAD MASS AIR METER . LOTS OF STUFF GO TO PARTS HOUSE MOST OF THEM OFFER FREE SCANS THEN REPOST YOUR CODES THEN WE CAN HELP
if it is cold where you reside your car will run at a higher rpm then when in warm temperatures so that it can build up engine heat faster. if this is not the case you will have to take it in to the dealer ship to have it put on the computer
This sounds like a normal condition.What happens is the cold start emission reduction component monitor(software program in the computer) is running.
Cold Start Emission Reduction Component Monitor
The Cold Start Emission Reduction Component Monitor was introduced for the 2006 MY on vehicles that meet the
LEV-II emission standards. The monitor works by validating the operation of the components of the system
required to achieve the cold start emission reduction strategy, namely retarded spark timing and elevated idle
When the CSER strategy is enabled, the idle air control system will request a higher idle rpm, elevating engine
airflow. While this CSER elevated airflow is requested, the low airflow test compares the measured idle airflow from
the MAF sensor to the commanded idle airflow from the idle air control strategy.