I have no heat at idle unless you increase the rpms. But when the rpms go down to normal the air gets cool. I replaced thermostat, water pump& pushed water through the heater core to make sure it flows good and everything seems good. But when my car is at idle its about 700 to 800 rpms.
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The engine and the Trans are in timing with each other from the factory...If the RPMs are revving up but the TRANS isn't keeping up with the Engine The problem sounds to be in the trans...Unless your calipers are sticking and holding you back....!?...A Throttle position Sensor can give you problems because It controls the throttle but normally if it is faulty it should run rough at any level....Same goes for the Idle Air Control valve....A fault in either of these components will produce abnormal RPMs and a rough running engine....Early signs of a clogged fuel filter will stall you while going up a hill also.....Of course the engine will get a temperature increase because it is being overworked....It may not be as hot as you think considering the gauge reading you described...You would have to use a handheld thermometer for a positive engine degree reading....However if it is evidently boiling hot and gauge reads normal it sounds like a faulty sensor in which case is a different problem....Make sure coolant is full to be safe......m..
You may be having a problem with your IACV idle air control valve. It is located on your Throttle body(follow the tube from your air cleaner to the throttle body) It will be on the the right below the tube. It is held on by three screws. It runs $430 at the dealer. I got one off of a junkyard throttle body for $30 and recycled the rest of the throttle body.
The wire has been bent. If you work the switch twisting gently you can actually get it to switch over from cool to heat. The only way to fix it is to replace the wires for the coolant switch. Rest assured you are not the only one with this problem. Just don't force it. Gently turn back and forth till it moves over.
If it is above 100PSI, you are over charged. Any thing under, should be normal to low. You probably need to get it checked by a professional to make sure it has the correct charge, and the compressor is getting power when the switch is turned on.
i just fixed mine.. take out your idle air intake valve, clean it all out. mine had the same issue. foreinstance in neutral my rpms were higher then drive. email@example.com
i also have a 2003 lancer black
Just finished fixing my daughters 1999 taurus heat. It would blow warm only when running down the road. At idle it blew cold. I started with replacing thermostat, and water pump because they are the easier fix. Still did not help. Then I replaced the heater core. A daunting job but not that hard to move the dash slighly out of the way to replace. There is a good write up at tarusclub.com. After that, heat was better but at idle, it would still blow cool sometimes. Researched and found answer. Park car on the steepest hill you can find with front of car up. Start car and take off reservoir cap. Let car warm up and keep rpms about 1500. After a while the fluid will come running out of the car and all over the place but it will bring air bubbles with it. Reduce rpm, add more fluid and repeat about 3 times. It will make a mess but after that, the heater works perfectly. We get heat long before the temp gage indicates any and it never blows cold unless you lower the temp.