I have a problem with my 97 ford f 250 diesel 7.3 engine, when its 20 degrees or below it starts and idles perfectley but the engine wont reve up and take fuel until it warms up for about 2 to 3 mintues.i can push the pedal to the floor and it still idles.what can i do to fix this problem???
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Re: wont take fuel when first started
Ford has a technical service bulletin out for this concern number 03-21-23. Here is the information you need. Hope it helps.
The 7.3L Direct Injection Turbo (DIT) engines are built with 0.1016-0.8128mm (0.0040-0.032") clearance between the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor and the trigger wheel. At approximately 1.016mm (0.040") clearance, the sensor will fail to synchronize and result in a no run condition. Improper CMP clearance can be seen in the following six (6) symptoms:
1) Fault codes - incorrect synchronization count
2) Low RPM - fails to achieve rated speed for 2-3 minutes after extended cold soak
3) No start - after extended cold soak
4) Runs poorly cold - engine runs OK warm
5) Stall on deceleration - more pronounced cold
6) Starts, runs cold, dies warm, will not restart until cool
Install a shim between the CMP sensor and the front engine cover. The shim will allow the correct clearance which should reduce the possibility of concerns. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details. SERVICE PROCEDURE
Perform normal DIT Powerstroke diagnostics. If no other problems are found, proceed with this TSB article.
Remove CMP sensor and inspect for signs of contact with the pulse wheel. Make sure the holes on the end are filled with epoxy and inspect the connector mating cavity for signs of oil contamination. If there are any signs of contact, contamination, or the holes are not filled, replace the CMP Sensor (F6TZ-12K073-A).
Repair symptoms 1) - 5) as follows: install a 0.254mm (0.010") shim under the CMP sensor. If symptoms persist, increase the shim thickness to 0.508mm (0.020") Shim (F7TZ-12J072-AA).
SOME ENGINES BETWEEN SERIAL NUMBERS 388840 AND 410010 HAVE BEEN BUILT WITH EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF TRIGGER WHEEL RUNOUT. RUNOUT OF THE TRIGGER WHEEL GREATER THAN 0.508mm (0.020") MIGHT NOT BE RESOLVED WITH A SHIM. THE ADDITIONAL CLEARANCE CAN PUT TOTAL CLEARANCE ABOVE 1.016mm (0.040") AND CAUSE FAILURE TO SYNCHRONIZE.
If symptom 6) occurs and trigger wheel runout is greater than 0.508mm (0.020"), try a 0.254mm (0.010") shim. If the concern is unresolved, replace the Camshaft Assembly (F4TZ-6250-A). Refer to the appropriate model/year Service Manual, Section 03-01C, for camshaft assembly replacement procedure.
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
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Since batteries lose almost half their cranking power at freezing, and since diesels require much higher fuel temps to start than gasoline engines, many recommend using a block heater whenever the temperature is under 35-40 degrees if starting becomes a problem.
According to my Haynes Diesel Engine Repair manual this is a list of possible causes.
1.Slow idle incorrectly adjusted
2.Fast idle is inoperative
3.Restricted fuel return system
4.Glow plugs turn off too soon
5.Insufficient fuel suuply to injector pump
6.Injector pump malfunction
7.Incorrect, contaminated or poor quality fuel
8.Air in fuel.
The manual is part number 10330 anywhere they sell Haynes manuals ($20). It has a very good section on the 7.3 especially if you don't want to spend money at a diesel shop every time it needs work. Hope this helps.
You may have to bleed the fuel system. There may be a very small air leak in the fuel supply line and after a long time idle, the fuel seeps bac into the tank, leaving an air lock in the pipe. When you go to start, this air makes its way into your injection pump & needs to be bled out before the engine will start. Begin from your fuel filter bleed valve, next the injection pump using the primer pump to transfer the fuel. Next loosen off the injector pipes and crank the engine over until fuel sprays form all the joints. Tighten injector pipes and start. It may run a bit rough for to begin with, but will soon even out. If it doesn't start, repeat bleeding of injectors.
Gasoline engines work with a spark plug, where an electrode ignites the fuel mixture. Diesel engines operate on the principle of heat and pressure. Compression ratios are very high in diesel engines and when the air is compressed into a very confined space it heats rapidly, then the fuel is injected and combusts.
Most diesel engines have a "wait to start" light when you first turn the ignition to on. If the temp is below normal, I might would allow for a few extra seconds for the glow plugs to heat up. The block heater will help though, b/c it raises the temp on the engine and allows for it to build the heat neccesary for combustion.
ruff guess from the sounds of it your fuel line going to either filter, fuel rail(if multi point) or carby will have a small crack or hole you should see moisture round it when it is running but if carbyed the needle and seat may not be closed properly as ive had the same probs in me old xf 250 cross flow