Question about 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Heater core housing

I took the 6 screws out of housing and still cannot get it off

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  • sister_bearr Feb 04, 2009

    I CANNOT GET TO THE HEATER CORE

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1 Answer

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  • Master
  • 11,896 Answers

There should be 6-8 screws, two clamps on the front, and the two hose clamps on the engine side.

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 05, 2009





    Heater Housing



    • The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.


    • Procedures
      for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of
      car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals
      for the proper procedure for replacement.

    Heater Core



    • Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.


    • Remove the heater coolant hoses.


    • Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).


    • Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.


    • Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.


    • To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.
    Heater Core



    • Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.


    • Remove the heater coolant hoses.


    • Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).


    • Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.


    • Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.


    • To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 05, 2009

    Assembly


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3 Suggested Answers

  • 120 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 S10 HEATER CORE

did you take all screws out of the housin on the out side double check they are hard to see

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

Ironfist109
  • 3018 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy I have to replace the

You have to chisel them stacks off. Then unscrew the six screws holding the housing together. When closing the housing up you first need to take a drill and drill a 7/16 hole where the stacks were and put new heater core screws in there.

Posted on Mar 23, 2011

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

Replacing heater core in 2006 sazuki forenza



Heater Core Removal and Installation

Removal
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the instrument panel.
3. Recover the refrigerant.
4. Remove the heater/air distributor case assembly.
5. Remove the wiring harness and electrical connectors from the heater/air distributor case assembly.


6. Remove the screws that connect the heater core housing and the evaporator housing.


7. Separate the sponge from heater/air distributor case assembly.
8. Remove the heater core cover screws from the heater core housing.


9. Remove the heater core.

Installation
1. Install the heater core into the case.
2. Install the screws on the heater core housing.

Tighten: Tighten the heater core cover screws to 1.2 Nm (11 in. lbs.).

Jan 10, 2017 | 2006 Suzuki Forenza

1 Answer

Driver side mirror replacement


Instructions1.
    • 1
Remove thedoor panel. Refer to your Honda Accord repair manual for theinstructions in removing the door panel. Unhook the rods and connectors on theinside of the door panel and set it on the floor.
    • 2
Remove thefilm covering the access to the side mirror. It's difficult to avoid damaging thefilm while removing it so you will need to purchase a new piece of filmcovering when you buy a new side view mirror.
    • 3
Reachthrough the service hole into the mirror housing with a screwdriver. Loosen thescrew that holds the mirror. Twist the screw out with your hand.
    • 4
Reacharound the door and support the mirror with your other hand. Continue to twistthe screw out, then catch the mirror as it drops out when you remove the screwcompletely. Put the screw in a safe place so you don't lose it.
    • 5
Installthe new side view mirror by positioning it where the old mirror was. Insert thescrew you took out in Step 4 and twist it in with your hand. Insert ascrewdriver into the service hole to tighten the screw.
    • 6
Replacethe film covering that was damaged when you took out the old mirror. Push itinto place in the indentation on the door.
    • 7
Sit in thecar seat and adjust the mirror so you can use it properly.

Jul 06, 2012 | 2005 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How to install ignition switch


follow these instructions:

Removing the Old Ignition Switch
1.

Remove the steering wheel housing. This will be held on by two screws. One will be in the front and the other will be in the back of the housing. The screws are usually Phillips heads or star-shaped heads.
2.

Locate the switch behind behind the key tumbler. It will be held by a screw.
3.

Remove the screw holding in the switch. The switch will work its way loose.
4.

Unattach the pigtail attached to the back of the ignition switch. They should lock in with a tab that needs to be folded up so the pigtail can be slid out.
5.

Remove the old switch. It will slide right out.

Installing the Ignition Switch
1.

Install the new switch. Inspect to make sure it looks like the old one.
2.

Plug the wiring into the back of the switch. The wiring pigtail will lock into place.
3.

Screw the switch back into position where the old one was removed. The new switch should sit in the same as the old one.
4.

Place the steering column housing back around the steering wheel. Install it as you took it off. The housing is set to fit around the column and fits one way.
5.

Tighten the screws on the housing. The housing should be snug.

Feb 06, 2011 | 2005 Chevrolet Uplander

1 Answer

Heater and fan stopped working


Are you sure it is the Blower? If you have not done it already, you could disconnect the blower plug and verify power is there when it should be on.

Also, I think that one has a cabin filter that can cause a blower motor to work harder if the filter is plugged. Maybe blew a fuse.

I quote this guide from other T&C owners...

After several hours I have finally gotten the blower motor out. As far as the hard to get to screw in the back it is indeed a major fuss. I ended up having to pull the carpet back along with the padding just to reach the bolt. I had to dig and grind and work several angles before I was able to get a socket on the puppy. It took me forever. I was finally able to reach it with a small socket, and I actually used a small extension on a small ratchet to get at it. I used an 8 socket, or a 5/32 I believe. I don't see any other way to get at this thing without tearing up some of your padding. Once I got that removed I then had to try and get the 3 screws out that hold up the blower motor inside the housing. That wasn't fun either. The lower housing is always in the way. The lower housing does flex quite a bit. You just have to keep working it and flexing it and finding the best angle to get at the three screws. You will need some decent lighting. I used extensions for a couple of screws. One screw remained, after taking out two screws. In retrospect I think I should have just loosened all three of them, because when I took two screws fully out it put some torque on the third screw and I couldn't get it out. I finally was able to put a small wrench on it. There is also this recirculation door inside the housing that moves around quite a bit. You can move it around to get to the screws. I've never done this before, so it was my quest to get it out. I'm not any professional mechanic either. Just want to save some money. Here are some other notes that may help you.

1. Don't use too hot of light under the dash. I used a very hot light and it started to melt my molding on the center console. I caught it just in time, and no major damage.

2. This lower housing cage thing was constanly in my way. From what I read in other forums it seemed like you left this part in and slipped the blower out through the flexing of the lower housing. But once I got the lower housing loose and the blower screws out I was able to slip the lower housing completely off. All I had to do was lift up the blower, out of the nozzle type thing it was seated in. Instead I struggled with the lower housing being in my way the whole time. I don't see why you can just loosen the lower housing, then the blower, lift up on the blower and slip off the cage. Maybe that is how it was supposed to work I don't know. You do have to slip the wire harness through the hole before doing this. Hope that makes sense.

3. As far as pinching that wire harness goes that was quite simple. I just squeezed it with a pair of flat ended needle nose.

4. I have no idea if I want to reinstall this thing. I probably will give it a shot, but with where all the screws were located I have no idea how well it will go back. Especially, that one screw in the back.

5. I will have to try and put my padding back as well as possible.

6. I had a quote for an hour of labor to install a resistor and blower motor. Perhaps I should have done that. It took me hours to get it out. But hey, it was my first time and success was mine. Just don't look forward to the hours it may take to put it back in. It may be well worth it for you to have it installed-especially if a shop is only quoting an hour at $55 for doing so.

Well, like I say, I'm no pro and I couldn't find anywhere on the net that discussed this in any length. There were plenty of people with questions on the blower motor and everybody wanted to tell them, "Are you sure it is your blower?" It may just be your resistor, and then no detail on the blower motor. My T&C has already blown two resistors, and my blower was making a loud roaring noise. The mechanic said I would have to replace the blower or I would keep blowing the resistor. Hope this all works out for me-and you!
END.

Good luck, and hope this helps.

Dec 22, 2010 | 2001 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

How to replace headlight assembly on a 2007 gmc sierra 1500 sle


try t
  1. Remove the radiator grille. Refer to Radiator Grille Replacement.
  2. Loosen only, do not remove, the lower outside hidden headlamp bolt (2).
  3. Pull the lamp assembly slightly forward to access the electrical connection.
  4. Disconnect the forward lamp harness main electrical connector from the headlamp harness.
1
Headlamp Screws (Qty: 2)
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in)
2
Headlamp Screw (Hidden)
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in)
3
Headlamp Housing Support
Tip
Depress the housing support tab with a flat-bladed tool downward in order to release the headlamp assembly from the support.
  1. Remove the radiator grille. Refer to Radiator Grille Replacement.
  2. Loosen only, do not remove, the lower outside hidden headlamp bolt (2).
  3. Pull the lamp assembly slightly forward to access the electrical connection.
  4. Disconnect the forward lamp harness main electrical connector from the headlamp harness.
1
Headlamp Screws (Qty: 2)
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in)
2
Headlamp Screw (Hidden)
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in)
3
Headlamp Housing Support
Tip
Depress the housing support tab with a flat-bladed tool downward in order to release the headlamp assembly from the support.
his.

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1 Answer

How to change air filter on a 2002 jetta tdi


Air filter changement for 2002 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI:
1. Unplug MAF Connector.
2. Unscrew two Air Filter Housing screws - Phillips driver.
3. Screws do not come out fully. They remain loose in the Housing.
4. Remove Air Filter Housing. Lift up/towards. Rest on battery cover.
5. Remove old Air Filter.
6. Clean Filter Housing. Damp cloth.
7. Check upper half of cover too.
8. Insert new Air Filter. Ensure the edges are seated.
9. Reposition Filter Housing. Clips on leading edge down/in first.
10. Two screws (don't overtighten).
11. Reconnect MAF plug.


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Aug 30, 2010 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

2 Answers

1999 silverado 4X4 took the underdash panel off


probably held in with 6 screws. I have never seen one that just turned a quarter turn to come out.

Mar 11, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

How to change driver side front turn signal bulb


You have to get the headlight off, you have to unscrew the top screw which is in the corner closest to the fender, and then there's another screw between the headlight & the front blinker even though there's absolutely no room. You could find no way to get a screwdriver or any other took to fit in there.Do not end up breaking the brackets for the bottom screws on both headlights, but you can keep the headlight staying in with just the top screw. After getting the headlight housing off, you have access to the screws for the blinker housing. It's a lot easier to take off the housing to change the bulb rather than to just pull the wire out & expect to put it back in easily!

Nov 03, 2009 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

How do you remove the head lamp assembly on a 1993


1. Make sure headlamp is off and open hood.
2. Taurus model years 1990-1999: you must remove the whole headlamp to replace the bulb. Not a horrible task. Just annoying.
3. Facing the driver's side headlamp, and looking at the headlamp itself, at clock positions 8, 11 and 1 are the headlight housing screws. They all look the same. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove these 3 screws and set them aside.
4. Just to the right of the "11 o'clock" housing screw is a bolt (same hexagonal 10mm sized top as the housing screws). This just needs a few turns to loosen it.
5. Gently pull the whole headlight forward. Now you can get at the bulb.
6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. Now the headlamp is free to work with. Remove the bulb, replace with a new bulb, make sure the bulb housing cylinder is in place and reconnect the electical.
7. Place headlamp back into position. Line up screw holes. Tighten the bolt. Replace housing screws and tighten.
8. Passenger side headlamp is mirror image of driver's side. Screws at 11, 1 and 4 o'clock positions. Bolt should be to the left of the "1 o'clock" housing screw.

Oct 12, 2009 | 1993 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

Where is the engine coolant sensor in a v70 99 volvo


Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Removal

c32b253.jpg


Engine temperature sensor, 5-cylinder
Jack up the car.
Remove protection cover from under engine.
Drain the coolant.
Lower the car.
Release coolant hose from thermostat housing using pliers.
Remove thermostat housing.
Remove sensor.


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Engine temperature sensor, 6-cylinder
Jack up the car.
Remove protection cover from under engine.
Drain the coolant.
Lower the car.
Loosen oil reservoir for servo pump.
Remove coolant reservoir and put it to one side.
Remove screws and outer/upper timing-gear casing.
Remove screws and wire channel.
Disconnect connector.
Remove 4 screws and thermostat housing.
Remove sensor and wires.
Installation
Engine temperature sensor, 6-cylinder
Install thermostat housing sensor.
Position wires in slot on thermostat housing.
Note! The white marks should be positioned in lower opening of slot, from underneath.
Position gasket on thermostat housing correctly and install thermostat housing using two of the screws.
Position thermostat housing correctly and tighten the four screws.
Position wire channel correctly and position wire in channel.
Tighten screw on wire channel.
Connect the connector.
Install outer/upper timing-gear casing.
Install coolant reservoir.
Install oil reservoir for servo pump.
Follow-on work, 6-cylinder
Fill up coolant.
Warm the engine until the thermostat opens.
Switch engine oft and check the level. Re-fill if necessary.
Check for leaks.
Check in VADIS vehicle communication (read-out of parameter values), for current engine system, that the engine temperature shown appears
correct.
Engine temperature sensor, 5-cylinder
Install in reverse order.
Follow-on work, 5-cylinder
Fill up coolant.
Warm the engine until the thermostat opens.
Switch engine off and check the level. Re-fill if necessary.
Check for leaks.
Check in VADIS vehicle communication (read-out of parameter values), for current engine system, that the engine temperature shown appears
correct.

Sep 19, 2009 | 1999 Volvo V70

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