Question about 2005 Cadillac SRX
The SRX will not change out of Park and at the same time the heated seats will not activate. This has happened three times now and we have had to have it towed and then wouldn't you know it, it will work great for a week or two and then happen again. The GM mechanics seem as confused as we are and say that they can't fix it unless they actually witness it taking place.
Any assistance will be greatly appreciated!!
the idiots must have towed the the car by the wrong end , this will burn out the transmission in short order. Any car needs to be towed with the drive wheels off the ground, if that is not poss then the drive-shaft has to be removed.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
the vehicle speed sensor is located on the top of the transaxle on the passengers side. look for wires on top of trans axle on passengers side.if more problems finding it let me know.
Posted on May 15, 2009
SOURCE: HEATER REPAIR
check your cooling fans. relays power and ground the wuickest easiest way is to turn on your ac if your ac system works the fans should kick on when the ac compressor comes on. also check your coolant there is a tool that you can pick up at the parts store for a few bucks. your coolant helps heat and cool your engine if the mixture isn't right the engine could overheat or possible freeze if the temps dip. also check the waterpump look for small amouts of coolant dripping or a sweet smellwhen inside the car.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
First you have to take out the one and only screw in the rear hatch door - it's where the hand pull down is you use to close the hatch.
Then you have to pop all the plastic clips all the way around the plastic door panel, trying not to pull them out from the frame . If you do pull out the white plastic plugs from the frame you better make certain you take them off the plastic housing and insert them back into their frame holes - or you will never get the housing back on.
Once you have the housing loose disconnect the inside tail gate light wire to remove the whole thing. Then you have to remove 7 to 8 nuts from the back of entire License plate, back up bulb housing using a deep socket to get in there. Work it loose from the rear of the car and it will come out just enough to work on the lights.
This is tricky since the screw mounts don't give you much room to work with.
Once you have the license plate and back up bulb frame loose you will see the two housings for the license plate bulbs on top.
Slide out the license plate bulb lens and twist the bulb connection to remove the bulbs.
Replace both of them - you don't want to do this again in a month when the other one blows.
Once you take out the bulbs you might see that the housing is melted where the bulb wanted to burn through. Drill two small holes one is each end of the housing before I put everything back together to release some of the heat.
Reverse the whole process to put everything back together. It's not easy.
Make sure you insert the cables through the opening for the hatch handle or it will kink and not work properly.
The bulbs come in a two pack of cost $4.95 .
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
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