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Re: Dash lights and taillights out fuses all ok
In battery junction box or the under hood fuse panel check fuse no 11(15amp),it will be at the center of the fuse box where there is 4 fuse slots but looks like only 3 fuses, if this fuse in good then you will see a relay that is shaped kinda like a cross.This is the parklamp relay which also powers the dash lights.
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Have you checked applicable fuses for everything except head lamps? The headlamps themselves don't use a fuse. Check the battery junction block under the hood, one of your positive battery cables should go to junction block. If several fusible links check them. My info shows red wire carries battery voltage to head lamp switch for headlamps. The headlamp switch has two voltage circuits, mainly, one for the head lamps, for the other lamps that the switch controls, those smaller lamps are fuse protected.
GOOD ADVISE--I ALSO LEARNED THAT THERE MAY BE FUSES IN UNDER THE HOOD ALSO. FOUND OUT TODAY THAT IF THE DOME LIGHT DON'T WORK THEN IT'S FUSE COULD BE BLOWN AND HINDER THE CIRCUIT TOO. I'M NOT GOOD ON VOLTAGE READING , BUT DO HAVE A TEST LIGHT. IF NO FIRE AT THE COMMON TAIL LIGT-DASH LIGHT FUSE , THEN THAT MIGHT NARROW IT DOWN. I HAD THE SAME TROUBLE IN MY 1990 FORD XLT LARIAT AND WAS BLOWING THE TAILLIGHT FUSE. IT WAS A SHORT IN THE EXTERNAL TRAILER KIT HARNESS WHICH CAUSED FUSES TO BLOW REGUARLY. WHERE IS RELAY FOR TAILIGHTS AND OTHER FUSES UNDER THE HOOD??
When you say "all fuses good" Does that mean the fuse panel on the passenger side end of dash...
and both power distribution boxes under the hood? They are attached to the fenders and you will have to remove the metal straps running over the covers to open them. Check power wire going to each box for tightness and 12 volts. If all the fuse's, relay's, and circuit breakers are good, you may have an issue with the "Body Control Module". You will find it under passenger side dash, behind the glove box. Might even be an issue with the ignition switch.
My 97 Rodeo had the same problem. No Tail lights, no. Dash lights. There is also an annoying buzzer that goes with the set telling you the lights are on, there is no key in the ignition and your door is open. (you don't notice it when it's gone but you sure notice it when it's back) The Fuse (taillight Illum) was good, The Light relay under the hood was good and all bulbs were good. What fixed this problem was replacing the tail light relay which is located in a panel just to the left of the brake pedal also called the kick panel.Inside there are 3 relays. I replaced the one in the middle and got everything to work. If you need to identify the relay you can put your hand over it and then turn the lights on and off. The correct relay should click. Mine was the middle one. Hope this helps someone because it stumped me for months.
The same thing happened to my BMW. All my fuses were fine too, what the problem was, was that the fuse that belonged to the dash lights and the brake lights, taillights etc. was wrong. If the fuse is not the correct amperage not everything on that circuit will work. So even though that the fuse is not burnt, the fuse could still be incorrect. Thats your best bet to check.
Your second solution can be the ground on that circuit. Check the grounds that come from the taillights, and find where it connects to the body or the frame with a small screw of small bolt. If the ground is dirty or rusty, it wont make a good connection and you will have loss of lights.
Hope this helps!
check in the fuse box on the drivers side under the hood. Check for "display lights" or "Dash" maybe even under "ACC".
For the signals check for "turn signals" or "Lights"
Should be 15 and 20 amp fuses.
Replace those and everything should work.
If you cannot find the signals and other things in the fuse box when checking the diagram, then look at all the 15 and 20amp fuses by pulling them out with needle nose plyers. Whichever fuses look cracked, snapped or burnt should be replaced. You could pick up a pack of fuses at a gas station or autoparts store for about $2.99