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Get a new clutch kit AND flywheel. Don't turn a flywheel more than once, just like with brake rotors. Any car can use an aftermarket clutch replacement (as long as they fit, of course). If you get a lightened flywheel, you'll enjoy better acceleration and mileage (city driving) as well.
If no codes are showing up, but you're fuel mileage has decreased, make note as to where you are getting your fuel. Differently fuel doesn't make a huge difference, but when I worked at a gas station, I had employees from the gas station next to us telling me that our fuel gave them better performance and mileage than theirs did - also, make sure that you're air filter, filter for turbo (if equipped) are new, and you may wanna check your spark plugs, to ensure they are gapped correctly. Another thing to consider is the catalytic converter being plugged, or the muffler even. Let me know if you have further questions, carsandcomps
REPLACE AIR FILTER.CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS,CHECK TIRE PRESSURE.LOW TIRE PRESSURE WILL CAUSE LOT OF FUEL CONSUMPTION.CITY DRIVING WILL BURN LOT MORE GAS,STOPPING VECHICLE THEN GOING WILL CAUSE MORE GAS BURNING, YOU NEED POWER AND FUEL TO GET VECHICLE IN MOTION,BY IT BEING HOT WEATHER, USING AIR CONDITIONING TO KEEP COOL INSIDE WILL CAUSE MORE FUEL CONSUMPTION.
if there are no major problems present all it needs is a tune up(spark plugs,fule filter,oil change, air filter, fule injector cleaner). for a upgrade in fuel economy add a short ram intake, parts are fairly easy to install.
if your still making payments on the car and its a dealer schedule servicing make sure you have them replace it.your warranty goes out the window when you dont follow there service plans.if not making payments you can wait.your under milage and you have a newer car i wouldnt worry
I think your (and my) Outback uses gas-filled shocks so the tell-tale signs of leakng fluid will not be visible.
Oddly, Haynes doesn't mention which is standard.
Try the 'bounce test,' it isn't conclusive but it may give you a clue as to whether you have a blown shock or not.
Push down firmly on each fender individually and let it rise suddenly.
Note how each corner responds, if a corner rises a little above static level, then falls back and stops, the shock is probably still functional.
If one or the other seems to bounce a little more than described, the shock is probably toast.
They should always be replaced in pairs.
120 K is a good run for any shocks; they mostly start to lose their function at half that mileage.