- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
your vehile is fitted with hydraulic valve lifters. if the kilometers is quite high on the engine i would suggest replacing the lifters and make sure you use a proper engine oil cause that is the most common reason why chains and lifters fail
My 97 Suburban had a similar problem. Would not crank on a regular basis. Replaced spark plug wires, plugs and rotor cap. Vehicle cranked and ran just fine, plugs were in poor shape. Checked fuel pressure, above 55psi with engine running or just the switch turned on. Immediately after switching engine off the pressure would bleed off to "0" PSI. Otherwise everything OK. Problem solved, so I thought. A couple days latter I had to make a road trip from Mobile, Al to Fort Meyers, Fl when cranking problem re-occurred after approx. 100 miles into trip. I stopped at parts houses on the way to ask questions and to obtain their best ideas, at times it would take 30 minutes before engine would again crank after making a stop. I replaced almost all of the sensors. Finally made it to Fort Meyers that night. Next morning vehicle was dead would not crank no matter what I tried. Fuel pressure OK. Only thing left to replace, Fuel Injector spider system. Problem solved.
check the timing and compression as this is a typical chevy senario, runs good it seems and shut off and now fights and locks up. Pull #1 plug, put into wire again and rest on exhaust manifold so electrode is very near metal, this will cause a spark. now put finger in the plug hole and crank motor, does the plug spark at the same time finger gets pushed off plug hole (compression) ? Also you can bring #1 cylinder to top ,(compression ) and remove dist cap, where the tab on rotor aims is it aiming to the plug wire in the cap that goes to the #1 spark plug. If any of this is not in line then the timing is off and you have to check. 1) timing chain and gear, 2) distributer gear on the bottom of dist which messhes with cam gear, (you can check this with cap off and try to spin or turn by hand.) And the most severe case is the cam broke, after all other checks you can pull off a valve cover and turn motor over and check all lifters for open close movement. I hope i didn't scare you . AND i also wish the easiest fix for you as well.
This is most likely a noisy lifter (or valve tappet). In cold weather, the clearances in the valve train open up because metal contracts due to the cold. Once the oil pressure comes up after start the noise goes away because the larger clearance fills with oil and the lifter becomes "cushioned" with the oil. The proper fix is to have the valves adjusted. I believe in your model, that is done by putting shims on the lifters. This will quiet the noisy lifters. In the short term, you can try using a lighter weight oil for cold weather. This will get the oil to the lifters faster after start up and quiet the tapping more quickly. Once the weather warms again, shift back to the normal weight.
Clicking is caused by lack of oil in the hydraulic lifters. If the car has had regular oil changes, the problem is probably the oil pump. If not, the engine may be shot with this much mileage. The part is $150 at autozone, but a shop may charge more. The labor for this job is about a day, so the total can easily be $600-900. If you have more questions, please let me know.
Often, if the car sometimes cranks and sometimes doesn't, the problem you're describing can be caused by loose battery connections. Check that the battery terminal connectors are clean and connected securely.