1996 Plymouth Voyager Logo
Anonymous Posted on Feb 06, 2013

Once the timing belt break,and replaced,still no starting,,,mechanical guy say its the computer,its the second one.

On road stop the engine,because i dontnow tryn to restart discharg batery,,anyway the electric guy sendme to bay the computer,no start,somebody else find the problem ...broken belt,replaced butno strt,then themotor mostbe fixed,its don..but keep no starting,,and this guy say its the computer again,,,i dont believe that,,,help me,,,

1 Answer

Stephen

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  • Plymouth Master 21,873 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 06, 2013
 Stephen
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I think I got most of what you said.
If you can not troubleshoot the problem yourself, you'll have to have it towed to a different shop.
You would need to know if you have spark to the plugs, fuel to the injectors, and normal compression now that the timing belt has been replaced.

  • Anonymous Feb 07, 2013

    thanks men ...no spark for all,just tha haf..no power to injectors,,this guy has been used a computer to read diagnostic,now the motro is fine i send to fix it.

  • Anonymous Feb 07, 2013

    please cut you tell me some thing else..

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 104 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 09, 2009

SOURCE: 1991 3.3L Plymouth Voyager, Transmission temp sticks in first.

John, this sounds like a valve hanging up in the valve body. The car shifts when the govenor pressure overcomes throttle valve pressure in this valve body.

What is the condition of the fluid? Is it at all dark or grey, does it smell burnt? It should be a nice light pink. If not, have the fluild and filter for the trans changed. This may take care of the problem.

If the oil is really burnt, you are at the end of the life of the clutches and you are looking at a complete trans rebuild. If the oil is ok, a trans shop should be able to take just the valve body down, clean it and eliminate the problem without overhauling the entire transmission

good luck

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Anonymous

  • 79 Answers
  • Posted on May 20, 2009

SOURCE: 1997 Neon dies, starts after electric fuel pump relay swapped

Hello, I would assume this is your fuel pump inside your tank. I would first however do some basics like a general tuneup. For starters I would replace your spark plugs and wires, rotary cap and button and check your fuses. Run some injector cleaner through your system. You know quick simple cheap things before you get to the fuel pump inside the gas tank which can be kinda expensive. The warm up then dies can be caused by, "blownout or fouled," spark plugs. I hope this gives you a general direction in which to go. A sidenote is that coil packs do not normally run an igntion code and I for one do not like them becuase they are expensive.

Anonymous

  • 14 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 17, 2009

SOURCE: 1998 plymouth engine fuse burns

first place i would start looking is the wiring to the O2 Sensors for shorts to ground or
in case the O2 Sensor itself is shorted, try disconnecting the sensors to see if the fuse stops blowing.
this is just a place to start, there are other problems that will blow that fuse. good luck.

Anonymous

  • 1776 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 23, 2009

SOURCE: Check engine light comes on, gauges light comes on

What sensors did you replace? It sounds like a problem that could be caused by something in the evaporative emission system, like a faulty purge solenoid or evap cannister problem. Does the tank take fuel slowly when filling up? You could also have a faulty gas cap. That is the first thing I would look at. It is an integral part of the evap system. Hope this helps and best wishes.

Anonymous

  • 3600 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 14, 2009

SOURCE: 88 reliant computer keeps shorting out. I've had 3

Well Take it back tothe shop who fixed it and make them pay the tow if they can't get it right. a computer is an expensive fuse. And you have a bad ground somewhere, on the motor or frame to the motor or computer to frame and it needs to be tested, if it shows more than.2 on the ohm meter you have a problem, that year could even have a bad ac compressor. If it has a quad driver in the computer that could be your problem and the ground on the ac is bad, in 87 the computers could not take 1 amp draw and if the ground is bad it could cause the computer to draw more than it can handle, I would think the mechanics would have checked this but just in case ask them. Also a bad ground cable from the engine to frame can do the same thing. If I am not mistaken it used a GM computer back then, just like a lot of other parts that came from other manufactures.

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