Question about 1998 Dodge Dakota

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Click, click and ?..

Some times It does start but not always, I have new battery, I have new ignition wires, new spark plugs, rotor cap, and rotor, but still. 170.000 miles something related with the timing belt????? this is a 3.9 engine.

Thank's

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  • nitausa Feb 03, 2009

    Thanks, it is exactly so far what is happening,

    I am so glad is nothing with the timing, one more time thank's

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  • 1,118 Answers

When you turn the key to start it just clicks? and you have to do this 2 or 3 times or more than it will start? If thats what it doing the starter is bad, and a new starter is in order. (Unless i'am misunderstanding you.) if it runs its not timming.

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

  • ccn7 Feb 03, 2009

    now that i'am sure i read you right, new starter will cure your starting problem.

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Cranks wont start no rpms shifter stuck in park


You need to join a honda user forum and post the question there. Sounds like the ignition is not being turned on. First, click on the key is accessory then "run" where the fuel pump spins up and the ignition is powered up so the spark plugs get spark. The old relay might be good and the ignition wiring bad. Test the old part if you have it by touch a wire to the + and - and listen for a click.

Feb 10, 2015 | 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol

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What to do when you car wont start


First, let's look at the obvious: the battery. When the battery is run down, but the headlights seem to shine at full strength, usually the starter makes click-click-click noises. That usually means you need a jump start. Of course, if the headlights are dim or off entirely, the battery is the most likely candidate.

A clicking noise from the starter indicates (usually) a dead or dying battery, and (sometimes) a dead starter. This may be a common problem on 3.3 family engines as they grow older. A single click from under the hood on an attempted start could mean a bad starter relay. Jump starts do not always work; poor quality cables can prevent enough power from being made.
If the battery's in fine fettle, there are a few other problems that could cause your car to refuse to start. First, check the gas.
One contributor noted (this relates to older cars, as newer ones do not have distributors or rotors):
A perfectly running, recently tuned car died and would not restart. It turned out to be the ignition rotor. The bad rotor was only a couple weeks old and looked perfect. There was spark at the spark plugs so that test alone is no indication. There were no codes set in the computer and I tested everything in the ignition and fuel system. I discovered it was the defective rotor, partly by luck.
It is impractical to carry all kinds of spare parts in your car, but carry at least a rotor ($8) and probably a cap ($10) as those are cheap and very easy to replace, under 5 minutes. Your rotor, no matter how new or perfect looking, can fail any time and leave you stranded, as it did to me. It is your $8 insurance against at least one reason why you might need a tow.
If you car is not starting or stalling and you are about to pull your hair out, try a new rotor and a new cap, even if the ones in the car are very recent. It just might do it, and it is a cheap fix.
This also emphasizes the need to really dig into the basics of ignition before proceeding with more exotic tests. In my case, cap, rotor and wires were brand new, but don't discount the possibility that some of those may be defective, even if they look perfect. Some tests can be unreliable and insufficient, as I learned from the spark plug test that looked okay despite the bad rotor. Next time you do your tune up, keep your old cap, rotor and wires, that you know are working, to try in case something is wrong and quickly eliminate many possibilities.
If the engine was wet, dry it, separate the wires, and try again, Use silicone spray or "wire drier" and, if that works, replace your wires with really good ones ($25-$60 mail order). Dan Stern recommended Whitaker's Multi-Mag, which look like the original wires, but uses the spiral-wound construction of modern, high performance wires: lower resistance, but no irritating radio noise. They have a lifetime guarantee and don't cost more than regular carbon-string type wires. The Slant-6 wire set (32605 for pre-1975) has the correct one-piece moulded plug boots. They are also sold under the Borg Warner/BWD KoolWire name.
Many have found that automatic-equipped cars would not start in Park, but will start in Neutral. Bill Watson suggested that the shifter linkage might be out of adjustment, very slightly.
The linkage from your steering column attaches to an "arm" that sticks out from the ****** on the driver's side (console shifters are similar). Get under the car while someone moves the gearshift linkage. This way you will be able to determine which way it goes when you put it into park.
What you do is place the car in park, loosen the bolts to the "arm", push the arm all the way in the direction park is engaged. Then push your gear level all the over the left - as far into "P" as it will go. Then tighten everything up.
The problem could also be the neutral safety switch, if it will not start at all:
To find the neutral safety switch, look for a small wire attached to your starter solenoid that leads down under the floor toward the transmission. You will find the neutral safety switch at the other end of it. [This switch may simply be dirty]. ... John Smith had starting problems, mostly when cold, on his 250,000 mile Dodge Spirit. He found oil in the neutral switch next to the transmission dipstick. Cleaning the connection seemed to fix it.

on Sep 09, 2011 | 1998 Pontiac Sunfire

3 Answers

Ignition mystery! 1994 GMC Suburban 2500 5.7 mtr. No spark to spark plugs. Have spark from coil to distributor. Have changed coil wire, cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil. have 12.5 volts going to...


I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.

Sep 21, 2013 | Chevrolet Suburban 2500 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

No spark


First does the rotor turn when cranking engine?? possible timing chain is out or stripped gear..are you sure it has no spark??did you verify this with a high output spark tester ? did you spray starting fluid in the tbi unit ?

Mar 23, 2012 | 2000 Chevrolet Astro

3 Answers

I have a 1993 chev pick-up v6 4.3, i just installed new spark plugs,new plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button.All plug wires are back in the right position,and i used the firing order 1-6-5-4-3-2...


This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).



archaeology_96.jpg

Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

Sep 14, 2011 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Changed the plugs wires and cap and rotor...think I might have screwed the firing order up....no misfire just wont turn over.


the wires to the plugs should not keep the motor from cranking over. If the battery is fully charged the ignition switch should engage the starter. If you think the firing order is wrong you need to determine 1 where is top dead center (the position the motor is in when #1 cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke). 2 what direction does the rotor turn 3 what is the firing order One way to make it easy to rotate the motor is to remove the spark plugs. no compression means no resistance to the starter so the motor should turn over with the key in the start position. If it won't crank over with the plugs out then something is wrong with the starter, battery, starter relay, or ignition switch. I always start with the basics. the battery should have at least 12.5 volts. if it does check the battery terminals. even if the starter is weak you should hear a click when the key is turned to the start position. Once you get the starter to turn over the motor you can tell when the number one cylinder is at top dead center by putting a finger over the spark hole as you crank over. You will feel the compression as the cylinder comes up on the compression stroke. I have used a large socket to slowly turn the motor over and when you are near top dead center you should be able to see the degrees of advance on the timing mark. Set the motor at top dead center then see where the rotor lines up with the wires on the distributor cap. that is where number one cylinder should fire. You then follow around in the direction that the rotor turns and the wires will corispond with the firing order. I always make a mark on the number one spot on the cap with a felt pen. That way you have a fixed reference point. Take care to verify that all the wires are to the proper plugs before trying to start. Take extra care at this point and make sure your firing order and rotor rotation are correct. I would triple check this. The firing order and rotor direction are usually somewhere on the autozone repair web site

Apr 19, 2011 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Will not start


Did you install the correct plugs, and did you check the gap? Also check all wires again to make sure nothing was pulled off, or loosened by accident.

Feb 07, 2010 | 1993 Lexus Ls 400

1 Answer

Car spudered and die know it won't start


1 Inspect Battery Damaged or faulty battery and/or connections. 2 Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter 4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. 5 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. 6 Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). 7 Inspect Control Module-Ignition Faulty ignition control module or circuit. 8 Inspect Solenoid Switch Damaged or faulty solenoid switch or solenoid switch circuit. 9 Inspect Starter Damaged, worn, defective, or faulty starter or starter related circuit. 10 Inspect Neutral Safety Switch Damaged or faulty neutral safety swittch or circuit. 11 Inspect Fuse Corroded, burned, or shorted fuse may be interupting power source. 12 Inspect Fusible Link Corroded, burned, or shorted fusible link may be interupting power source. 13 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. 14 Inspect Spark Plug Wire Loom - Performance Improperly adjusted or worn/malfunctioning carburetor. 15 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap 16 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. 17 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system. 18 Inspect Fuel Injector Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector. 19 Inspect Ignition Switch Worn, damaged or faulty ignition switch or circuit. 20 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). 21 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s). 22 Inspect Timing Belt Slipped or broken timing belt. 23 Inspect Timing Set Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s). 24 Inspect Fuel Tank Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank. 25 Inspect Ignition Timing Incorrectly adjusted engine timing.

Dec 08, 2008 | 1995 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

My 97 chevy cavalier want start with key


sounds like a bad alternator try this list too 1 Inspect Battery Damaged or faulty battery and/or connections. grey_line.gif 2 Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. grey_line.gif 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter grey_line.gif 4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. grey_line.gif 5 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. grey_line.gif 6 Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). grey_line.gif 7 Inspect Control Module-Ignition Faulty ignition control module or circuit. grey_line.gif 8 Inspect Solenoid Switch Damaged or faulty solenoid switch or solenoid switch circuit. grey_line.gif 9 Inspect Starter Damaged, worn, defective, or faulty starter or starter related circuit. grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Neutral Safety Switch Damaged or faulty neutral safety swittch or circuit. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Fuse Corroded, burned, or shorted fuse may be interupting power source. grey_line.gif 12 Inspect Fusible Link Corroded, burned, or shorted fusible link may be interupting power source. grey_line.gif 13 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. grey_line.gif 14 Inspect Spark Plug Wire Loom - Performance Improperly adjusted or worn/malfunctioning carburetor. grey_line.gif 15 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap grey_line.gif 16 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. grey_line.gif 17 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system. grey_line.gif 18 Inspect Fuel Injector Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector. grey_line.gif 19 Inspect Ignition Switch Worn, damaged or faulty ignition switch or circuit. grey_line.gif 20 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). grey_line.gif 21 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s). grey_line.gif 22 Inspect Timing Belt Slipped or broken timing belt. grey_line.gif 23 Inspect Timing Set Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s). grey_line.gif 24 Inspect Fuel Tank Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank. grey_line.gif 25 Inspect Ignition Timing Incorrectly adjusted engine timing.

Dec 02, 2008 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

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