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Re: engine block does not heat up
Check the radiator fan relay. If it fails and leaves your fan running all the time, then you may never get hot.
Mine failed in my '03 Jeep Cherokee, but it failed open. Didn't make for a fun drive home. Was located behind the right headlight, and in order to access, had to drill a hole in the splash shield behind the headlight. Then plugged back up with a hole plug from the hardware store.
Oh, and the heater never really get's hot. I don't know what temp it get's to, but hot, like in my '01 Tahoe, it's not.
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your heater switch is not working.take it to shop and they will show u were it is. unless your thermastat is stuck, does your engine heat up? if so change your thermostat. other check you switch..mudman1966
either you have a bad thermostat or you have a air lock in your heater hoses remember your heater is fed by the hose by the upper rad hose return is the hose going to the water pump, to bleed the air out fill rad leave the rad cap off start engine run for 5 min. the check the coolant level,fill to top of neck replace rad cap tight, K-D tools make a special funnel to solve this air lock problem
If your heater core hoses are frozen you should immediately drain the coolant out of your radiator and engine and refill it with the proper mixture. Your lucky if your heater core lines are the only thing that froze, it could have popped a freeze plug or two out of the block. You could use a hair dryer or heat gun if you need to unfreeze it quickly.
could be waterpump?
i was going to say rad fan,but if so heater would be hot.
lack of coolant will make heater core to blow cold,if engine heats up with full coolant,usually means poor or no circulation.
run engine with full coolant,at operating temp.with rad cap off and look in rad cap hole and see if there is movement of water inside rad.
[rad fan will not come on if water is not circulating through rad water pump?]
Remove and raise upper hose at thermostat end and remove lower rad hose. Fill rad with a hose and watch for flow from bottom rad hose and/ or bottom rad hose connecton.......water should fall though rad easily. Honda rads are cheap.....any restriction....replace rad.
Remove thermostat....fill thermostat housing with hose and watch for water flow at bottom rad hose. Flush good.
Remove heater hoses.......flush back and forth until a good flow is present "With heater control set to hot" if no or poor flow....replace heater core.
Stop leak can plug everything.
Also.......not likely causing over heating....but ....at your mileage,if you do not know if the timing belt has been changed.....CHANGE IT NOW! Water pump is optional at this mileage.
I'm betting your heater core is getting plugged up. With vehicle cooled off, drain rad, and remove heater hoses going into firewall at back of engine area. Cut & connect a garden hose of proper size to one of the copper tubes coming out of the firewall. Run water through it for a while to clear it out, now connect it to other tube & do the same. Re-attach hoses, fill rad with proper coolant mix and start engine with heater (not defrost) on while you do it. Keep topping up rad as coolant goes down. Let it run for a while, and rev the engine a little every once in a while and hold it there for 20-30 seconds just to speed up the air bleed and circulation process. Leave the cap off until it reaches normal operating temperature & wait for rad fan to come on, then off 2 to 3 times to make sure all air is out of the system. Put rad cap back on & top up coolant return bottle to proper level, and check that bottle for a couple of days just in case level goes down a bit after. If you have the time when heater hoses are off, I recommend plugging one of the tubes, (bottom one) and using the hose for flushing attached to other tube, and a funnel, and filling the core with "CLR" and letting it sit in there overnight to clean out calcium build up better inside the heater core. Then drain it, flush it & re-connect next day, but that's up to you. Good Luck, let us know how it goes.
Pretty common on those. I used CLR and disconnected my heater hoses & with a small pump, I ran CLR only, through the heater core, and let it sit in there overnight, flushed it through again next day, back flush as well. re-connect hoses, run engine with heater on, and rad cap off until the rad fan comes on 2 or 3 times, then put cap back on, to bleed air out of system. Cleaned it out enough to get the heat flowing again. If you changed thermostat and didn't let it run with heat on, and rad cap off for a while as described above, then do that first, just to make sure you haven't just got an air lock in the system.
all mazda 929 have this problem when the coolant level is dropped the heater core has no fluid in it since it ts off of the engine block . hence it cannot recive any coolant to heat the car. the best way to fix this is bleed the system of air . when filling coolant squezze the return hose with the cap on the rad it will force fluid bact to the core and push the air out once you do this a few times you will see the rad fluid droped fill it up and run the car . this should solve this problem