- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You can try tapping on the starter motor with a blunt object while some one holds the key in the crank position. If it turns over during this procedure, starter replacement will be required. If nothing happens during this procedure, you will need to check the small "start" wire attached to the starter for power while the key is held in the crank position. If there is power and the starter motor is inoperative, the starter is defective. If no power, possible relay/wiring to starter motor
i would think this is an ignition switch problem if starter spins when ign key removed, the ign switch isn't cutting power to the starter circuit ,remove the steering column cowling panels and check for loose wires etc , with a voltmeter find the cranking wire , only comes live when key turned to starting position and should give no power when key returned to normal position , i suspect it is internal to the switch , you could try spraying wd40 into the switch barrel in case there is a sticking part otherwise a new ign switch will be required good luck ,keep me posted if you wish
The small starter wire should only have power on it when the key is held in the cranking position. Is that how you tested it? If no power then, trace the signal from the ignition switch to the starter. The starter relay and the neutral safety switch should be in that path.
You need to test the trigger wire on the starter to see if it is still getting power when the key is off, and the starter is cranking. The trigger wire is the small terminal on the starter that gets power with the key in the crank position. If the trigger wire has power with the key off the problem is in the electrical system, probably the ignition switch. If the trigger wire doesn't have power and the starter continues to crank, with the key off, the problem will be inside the starter.
its one of two faults a starter fault or a switch fault,,
test the switch by hooking a wire to the small terminil on the starter and hooking a 12 volt light bulb up to it,,,now turn the key,,this bulb will light up,,,only for the time the key is held in the start up poshion if it stayes light up when you have let go the key the key switch if faulty
Possibly a bad starter, need to check for power at the starter to verify. The big wire is from the battery, the small wire is from the ignition. If you have power on both wires with the key in the crank position, you have a bad starter. If you dont have power on the samll wire when cranking, then you need to test your ignition and neutral safty switches.
soundss like a bad starter, use a test light on small wire going to starter, have somone hold key in the crank position if you get power to the small wire at starter then its a bad starter, hope this helps.
check your fuses first for a blown fuse.
check the very thick cable that runs from the battery positive to the starter motor to make sure it isnt heavily corroded either at the batter or starter end. corrosion will have to be quite bad and therefore obvious if sufficient to cause a problem. also check the fixings are tight on either end. perform the same checks for the thick cbale from the negative battery terminal . this will either run directly to the engine/gearbox housing or to to the chassis/vehicle from which it will connect to the engine via another cable. all of this needs to be tight and corrosion free.
if so, then you will find a much thinner cable that runs to the starter motor solenoid (which is part of the starter motor assembly). this small cable will be very close to the thick one. check that this cable has a live feed while an assistant tries to engage the starter motor with the key. you will need a test lamp or voltmeter to do this.
if there is a live feed from this thin cable, and you are definately happy that the battery and the heavy cables are good, then the fault has too lie with the starter motor.
if there is not live feed at the small wire then this will be down to either a faulty ignition switch, a blown fuse, if fitted, a relay or a wiring fault.
does the clicking noise you hear ONLY occour while the key is turned to engage the starter motor? if so this could be the problem, otherwise I would think it is irrelevant to the problem.
You can test the ignition switch by removing the cowling around the ignition barrel. There is usualy 4 wires. one will be a pernament live feed into the switch. one will become live when the key is turned to the first stage ( for things like the radio). the next will only become live with the ignition on. The most important one here will be the one that becomes live while engaging the starter. if there is no live going out, but there is a live into the switch then it will obviously be the switch thats faulty.
failing that, it comes down to tracing the point where the live feed breaks down.
I'm not sure if there is a relay in this circuit, I would not have thought so, may worth trying to find out, perhaps by trying to get hold of a wiring diagram (manufacturers website?).
Next step is to get under the car and check the connections at the starter.. Do you have a 12 volt test light. If so probe the solenoid wire while someone hold the key in cranking position. If you have voltage there the starter died and needs to be replaced.
Always use jack stands while working under a jacked up car!!!