Oil is pouring from two pierced copper pipes around the engine.
During a camping trip, I drove in the grass and got stack onto a piece of concrete. 4 other people had to help to get out. I believe I damaged the sump. But the sump is OK. I can't understand how these two pipes around the engine, above the sump have been pierced. What are these pipe (obviously containing engine oil)? How much pressue is in these pipes? Can I wrap some sticky tape around these pipes to stop it leaking?
1996 Ford Falcon Classic EFII 4D sedan 4.ol 6 Multi Point F/inj 4 SP automatic Thanks.
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Re: Oil is pouring from two pierced copper pipes around...
Tape will not Hold on these Lines, They will need to Be Replaced. I do Believe that these Go to either the Oil Pump. There should be one for enter and one for Exit of oil after Circulation. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!
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First stepwould typically be to replace the PCV valve. It's located behind the valve cover at the bottom of the rubber tube that connects to the back of the valve cover and branches off to the air filter housing.
If the head gasket has been replaced, it's likely one of the oil returns is blocked (replacement head gaskets, for whatever reason, don't usually align with the head correctly). The solution is to open the secondary oil return. I used a one foot piece of 4 gauge bare copper wire (more of a 1/4" copper rod). Remove the valve cover. Taper the end of the copper wire to a blunt point and drive it about 6 inches down the oil return on the backside of the head near the rear of the head (directly behind where the oil filler cap was).
Check the opening around the oil filter outlet and make sure that there is no gasket still on the housing. Fram filters are famous for its gasket coming off and sticking to the surface of the inlet. When you tighten the new filter it crimps the new gasket and leaks all the oil out. I have had this happen to me twice. No more Fram filters for me. Buy PUROLATER. Hope this helps
in the oil pan(sump) there is an oil pick up pipe and a filter on the end of it. The pan being damaged the oil pick up was probably bent and hitting on the big ends or the balance of the crank shaft. have the pan pulled and check for damage on the oil pipe and pick up filter. Replace the pipe and filter as they will be cracked or fractured and in future will break and the pump will run out of oil.==engine failure.
either you havent flushed the cooling system out properly ,or the oil cooler has packed up ,their is a oil cooler radiator of sorts that the oil filter screws onto ,these often leak ,just remove the water pipes and join them together with a small piece of copper pipe ,then if you see oil coming out of the water pipes fit a new cooler
Look under the car to see if there is a loose heat shield around the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter area. Look right between the front seats (under the car). The front portion normally rusts away from the bolts holding it in place. This is like a ****-shell part - the top half or bottom half vibrate against the catalytic converter (sounds like knocking). Dealer can fix for about $100. You can fix for about $5.
Get a small piece of fiber glass fabric (auto store) and fold nicely and fit betwen the loose parts. Then get 3 pieces of 10 gauge copper about 18 inches long and wrap around the entire heat shield and twist tight. This will stop the vibration and last a long time in harsh environmental conditions. Do not just drive without the heat shield. You can melt your carpeting and start fires if you ever drive on grass.
if it's not going onto the ground, and it's not being burned, check the positive crankcase ventilation and the exhaust gas recirculation valves for oil seepage...also check your air filter, if its got oil on it replace the pcv valve.
Exhaust hanger at the catalytic converter and lower the pipe.
Flywheel/torque converter housing access cover.
Oil level sensor (if equipped).
Place a pole jack under vibration dampener with a piece of wood between dampener and jack.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Engine mount through bolts and raise engine for clearance to remove pan.
Transmission cooler lines (if equipped).
Oxygen sensor harness from oil pan mounting studs.
Oil pan bolts and studs.
Oil pan and gasket.
Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
Apply Mopar® Silicone Adhesive Sealant or equivalent onto the cylinder block in four location as shown.
Attach the pan gasket to the oil pan with Hi-tack or equivalent (2003-2005 vheicles).
Use 1 ½ x ¼ inch bolts to fabricate alignment dowels. Cut off the head of the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowels (2006 vehicles).
Install two dowels into the timing case cover (2006 vehicles).
Install two dowels into the cylinder block (2006 vehicles).
Place the gasket over the dowels and onto the cylinder block and timing case cover (2006 vehicles).
Position the oil pan.
Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten to 84 in-lb (9.5 Nm).
Install the 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten to 132 in-lb (15 Nm).
Remove the dowels.
Install the remaining 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten to 84 in-lb (9.5 Nm) (2006 vehicles).
Lower the engine onto the engine mounts.
Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
Remove jack stand and remove the piece of wood.
Install the flywheel and torque converter access cover.
Install starter motor.
Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to exhaust manifold.
Install the transmission oil cooling lines (if equipped).
Install the oxygen sensor wiring supports to the oil pan mounting studs.
Install the drain plug into the oil pan. Tighten to 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Connect negative battery cable.
Fill the oil pan with oil.
WARNING Use extreme caution when the engine is operating. Do not stand in a direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear loose clothing.