I had this same issue on my 97 Honda Accord SE, but when I changed the
Brake Light Safety Switch, the problem was not solved! Turns out the
small blue plastic "pin" that presses on the brake light safety switch
when the pedal is not being pressed, was broken off and could not put
pressure on the brake light safety switch.. I had to rig it up so that
it would work until I could go get myself a new brake pedal and have it
put on. ( new pedal needed because that pin and its housing are one
peice with the whole brake pedal.)
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Have you tried spraying the door switches with wd40 type spray or changing the door switch , Either the switch sticks or the wiring may fray after a bit of time.causing the wire to splay out and touch the inner bodywork causing a constant live feed . If not you could simply remove the interior light fuse , so it is not a constant live feed draining your battery until you can get an auto electrical place to look at it . It could also be whaer getting into the system somewhere causing a constant feed. Check the Fuse box.
look at the brake pedal there is a switch connected to it with a plunger to turn on the brake lights the stopper for the switch probably has fallen out you will need to stick a new one in.It is a very cheep easy fix.
In Canada it's mandatory to have DRL(Daytime Running Lights). Your Corolla probably has this feature built in. it is a safety thing however I can understand you wanting them off if it's not the law where you live.
In our 1998 Corolla, I use the parking brake all the time - every time I park - and I've noticed the lights do not come on until I release the parking brake after starting the motor. When I park the car, until I shut off the engine, the lights stay on regardless of the parking brake status however, if I shut off the engine and restart with the parking brake on, the lights do not come on.
If you "adjust' the parking brake switch(i.e.: make e-brake light in your dash it stay on all the time) your lights will not go on until you turn them on via the multifunction lever(left side of wheel). This of course negates the benefits of the e-brake light working correctly (warning you that your e-brake is on or that your brake fluid level is low) which in itself is not so safe!
There is a fuse/relay (I think) in the big fusebox under the hood that has a DRL "spot", you might want to check if you can remove it and still turn the lights on manually when you want them on. Alternately, there is a fuse in the interior fuse box(in Canadian models anyway) labelled DRL. When that fuse is out, it seems the lights only turn ob when I turn them on manually.
Hope this helps and God bless,
You might try removing the brake light bulbs from each light including the third brake light and see if the fuse still blows. If it does not then replace the bulbs one at a time until it does. You will then have an area to look for the short that is causing your problem. If the fuse still blew with the lights out it will be a good time to get out the ohmmeter and check continuity for the power feed to the light sockets to ground. Not easy but a start!
I'm going to asume it is the new style switch which is removed by turning it counterclockwise 45degrees and removed. Proir to installing the new switch you must pull the plunger out fully, put a dab of light lube on the plunger, hold the brake pedal in the up position ( against the stop ), insert the switch into the hole, seat it by pressing it against the pedal and then turn clockwise 45degrees. The switch must be rotated until it is fully locked and the electrical connector is in the horizontal position.
Remove the negative terminal on the battery using a wrench. Look up under the dash and follow the brake pedal arm up to the switch. Pinch the tabs and pull the electrical plug out of the brake light switch.
Remove the nut closest to the brake pedal arm using a socket. This allows the switch to be removed from the bracket.
Install the new switch by adjusting the rear nut, closest to the electrical plug, back toward the plug until it is a few threads away from the plug. Remove the front nut closest to the button. Push the switch into the bracket with the button facing the brake pedal arm. Install the nut on the button side of the switch.
Push the switch in until it contacts the arm and depresses the button. At this point, use your fingers to turn the front nut back until it contacts the bracket, keeping the switch from pushing back out of the bracket. Adjust the nut as necessary to assure the button is depressed against the brake pedal arm without moving the arm. Run the rear nut up to the bracket to lock the switch in place. Tighten the rear nut with a wrench.
Install the electrical plug on the brake light switch. Install the negative terminal on the battery, and tighten with a wrench
The turn signal switch overrides your brake lights when activated, that's why when it fails, cuts power to both circuits.
For your type of vehicle, it is relatively easy to replace, remove steering wheel, unscrew turn signal lever, unplug electrical connector from underneath instrument panel by steering column, remove the 3 or 4 .screws fastening the switch and pull it out until connector is free. It is about 1/2 hr. job.
I suggest to get new switch first so you can get familiar with it.
The brake light switch is sticking look under the dash follow the brake pedal arm up and look for the switch you may be able to get away with spraying some electrical contact cleaner on the switch working the pedal down and up as you spray if this fails to work the switch should be replaced. Remove the plug and wire connection and the screws and adjustment nut that hold the switch in and make note of where the switch was located in relation to the brake pedal contact point, you must have the switch location adjusted in the right point of contact with the pedal for the new one to work right, when installing the new one keep adjusting its location until the desired effect is attained.