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did you remember to put the new o ring in, then is it seated right, next make sure none of the hoses came loose, my experiance is that one or more of the hoses fell off. make sure all hoses are routed to the proper hose connection
CODE PO442 - EVAP SYSTEM SMALL LEAK DETECTED CONDITIONS, CODE PO455 - EVAP SYSTEM LARGE LEAK DETECTED CONDITIONS, CHECK GAS CAP MAKE SURE ITS IN PLACE NOT LOOSE OR MISSING, FUEL TANK FUEL FIILER NECK OR FUEL SENDING UNIT O - RING IS LEAKING, FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR IS DAMAGED DISCONNECTED OR FAILED, FUEL TANK VAPOR LINES CLOGGED DAMAGED, PURGE VAPOR LINE IS CLOGGED , DAMAGED, PURGE SOLENOID IS NOT OPENING MAY BE DAMAGED OR STICKING, VENT SOLENOID IS NOT CLOSING MAY BE DAMAGED OR STICKING, THE PCM HAS FAILED.
First thing to do is to locate the fuel filter, most likely down near the tank.
Second thing to do if it is a fuel injected engine is to open the bonnet and find the main fuse box. Remove the Fuel pump relay, or fuse. This will prevent the fuel pump from working. Now start your engine and run it until it stalls out. Shut off the engine, go to the fuel filter and remove the clamps or spring clips attaching it to the fuel line.
Now take the filter off and replace it with a new one, make sure you snug up all the connections. Now go back to the front and replace that relay or fuse. Turn the key until the and wait until all the dash lights have gone out or stopped flashing. Wind over the engine until it catches and runs. Put the hand brake on and with the vehicle in neutral if a manual or in park if auto.
Check the filter for leaks if leaking turn it off and tighten the clamps, try not to refit old clamps or spring clips always try to fit new ones and new fuel hose if possible. Make sure if you fit new fuel hose you fit Fuel injection hose, not standard fuel hose. As the standard fuel hose will split due to the pressure.
Would have to be the high pressure line from the pump. It may just be the short hose that connects the pump to the main fuel line. Take the access cover off and turn the key on briefly to see where it is leaking. A hose is easy to replace. Let me know if you get stuck.
When you have an engine that is hard to start or the engine takes longer than normal to start, with a fuel injected engine it will normally be caused by a fuel problem. Another problem would be slow cranking of the engine because of a low battery, I would check all of the fuel related problems if the engine seems to crank normally. There are a few things to check. First pull the fuel filter off and wipe it off so you don't get gas in your mouth and try to blow through one of the fuel connections on the filter. If you can't blow through it the filter is pluged and needs to be replaced. A plugged fuel filter can cause hard starting and can also damage your fuel pump. The next thing to do when everything is put back on the car is to check the fuel system for bleed down. You need to locate the fuel pressure test connection on the engine. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the connection and start the engine, then turn the ignition off. With the engine off the pressure should read and stay between 30psi and 40psi, to be sure of the pressure you will have get the spec's on the engine you have. The main thing you will be looking for is to make sure the pressure doesn't start bleeding down in to direction of zero after a few minutes or maybe even immediately. If you see the pressure start to bleed down you have a problem. There are two problems that normally cause the pressure to bleed down. One is a bad check valve in the fuel pump, the other is a bad fuel pressure regulator. The main thing that happens with a fuel pressure regulator is the diaphram inside starts leaking. When that happens sometimes it will leak fuel into the intake manifold through the vaccuum hose connection to the intake manifold. To check for a fuel leak through the vacuum hose connection, locate the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator and pull the hose from either the manifold connection or from the connection at the fuel reguator. If you see any gas at all the fuel regulator is leaking and must be replaced. If it is a slow leak from the regulator you might have to start the engine with the vacuum hose disconnected and look for a leak from the hose. If you don't find anything wrong with the regulator the next problem area would be fuel pressure bleeding back into the gas tank because of a bad check valve in the fuel pump. If this is the problem the fuel pump would have to be replaced. My first guess as to what is causing your problem would be the fuel pressure regualtor although I would definately want to make sure the fuel filter is not plugged. (Please Note) The fuel pressure regulator is located in the intake manifold area of the engine. The fuel pump is located in the gas tank. The fuel filter is located usually somewhere under the car.
Hi If your car runs rough or stops running while at a stop the main thing would be a vacuum hose leak. What is happening is that the fuel/air mixture is off. At idle or lower speed there is more air than fuel being mixed because of the vacuum leak causing the engine to stall out. That is why it runs fine as it warms up because the fuel mixture is richer, as the car warms up the fuel mixture decreases. As you drive the car at normal speeds such as on the freeway, the fuel mixture increases bringing balance to the fuel/air mixture. The vacuum leak in the hose is causing too much air to be added into the fuel/air mixture causing your engine to run lean while at an idle. To locate the leak get a can of carb cleaner. Have someone help you keep the car running while you squirt the car cleaner around the different vacuum hoses. When you spray a section of hose and hear the engine smooth out or the RPMs increase, that area is your problem. Keep squirting the area until you are able to locate the hose with the leak.Remove the faulty hose .However if you take to a shop and they place it on the computer and tell you that the Oxygen sensor is faulty, tell them to check for a vacuum hose leak. The computer will of course report a faulty Oxygen sensor because the vacuum leak is causing the fuel/air mixture to be off. Have you checked the EGR valve? It may be leaking, touch it with a wet finger at idle, if it is leaking it will be very hot, the cause is either carbon or back pressure transducer problem, another issue may be fuel pressure so check the pressure . Let us know if you want to know something more else please accept the suggestion. Thanks for contacting fixya.com
the main vacuum hose is at the main intake frame at the top of the engin
but the vacuum lines for the vacuum systeme are more than one which one you main. any way use this methode to check for leaking hoses. A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the
"hissin'g" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.
(It's quite common for vacuum hoses,especially those in the emissions system, tobe color coded or identified by colored stripes molded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thickness, collapse resistance and temperature resistance.
When replacing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material.
Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle.
If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation.
When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks and thehose where it fits over each fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. . Warning: When probing with the vacuu hose stethoscope, be careful not to
come into contact with moving engine components such as drivebelts, the cooling fan, etc.
If it's a 4.0 engine, the filter thing is the fuel pressure regulator (does it have a vacuum hose going to a fitting on the intake manifold?) Depending upon how much material (clean tubing) you have to work with the temporary"fix" is just about the same as the real repair. Cut the line, removing the failed part, and install a new piece of steel tubing, using crimp type unions (they have brass ferrules on both ends that seal permanently to tubing once they are tightened. Sometimes you need to remove a decent length to get to a straight clean area (unions are not recommended to be used on curved sections of tubing. Or, if you can't do this, cut the tubing right over the leak, slip a piece of high pressure fuel line (rubber) over both ends and fasten with two clamps (made for fuel lines, not for water hose applications) Make sure that rubber hose extends at least one inch past the leaking area.That will get you to a shop! Check the regulator. it's doubtful that both the line and reg are leaking. Good luck
This is a maddening problem if you don't know what's going on. If it's like my 92 isuzu pickup with 2.3 litre engine, it's a vent line coming out of the fuel pump which will spit oil out. I had a very hard time figuring out why but finally read that there is a galley in the block where oil runs back to the oil pan. If it gets clogged, oil will come out the vent line of the fuel pump. I even took my head off and tried blowing compressed air and sticking various wires through the block holes near where the fuel pump mounts. Nothing did any good and I was sick of the leaking oil and having to add oil so I bought several feet of oil resistant hose at autozone and routed it from the vent line, back over the engine, and into the dipstick tube. This worked like a champ. No more leaking oil. No more adding oil. Make sure you trim the outside of the hose where it goes into the dipstick with a razor knife or similar, so it will fit tightly. Make real sure you use oil resistant hose or it will break down and get into your oil. Not good. Then use a tie wrap to secure the hose to something else like the brake vacuum hose to keep it in place. I keep my dipstick behind the seat and make sure it's cleaned before and after checking my oil. This truck doesn't use any oil to speak of now and I wish I'd thought of this sooner. Short of removing the engine and having the block flushed and cleaned I don't know what else would have fixed this problem.
Someone else said to replace the fuel pump to fix this problem. I tried that. It did not work. It still spat oil out the vent tube to the tune of about one quart every 150 miles.
I also replaced all the engine seals and gaskets. Front and rear main seals too which were also leaking. So now my oil leaks are a thing of the past. Good luck!
Did you check the fuel filter and make sure the hoses are on properly
and the hoses aren't cracked? Check the ends of all fuel line hoses;
they may be cracked at the ends. Make sure any clamps on the fuel lines
haven't pinched the fuel hose; it may crack it and cause a leak and you
won't see it because it may only leak when the engine is running. Check
the fuel line after you have turned on the engine and make sure you
have a fire extinguisher on hand and within arms reach.