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remove transmission, remove flywheel, pry old seal out with seal remove or a screwdriver careful not to damage the block or crank. Clean surface with carberater cleaner or brake cleaner. Tap ne seal in with flat end of ball ping hammer. Put transmission back in.
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, the oil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.
clean off the area where you suspect the leak is then run and check. The only way to change rear main seal (and have it actually work) is by removing crankshaft. I have seen this attempted at least a hundred times and never seen one yet that didn't leak. Some of the new oils for "older engines" have a seal softener in them tha usually will help but don't expect results for months...it took years for seals to harden & wear.
try aviation gasket maker / messy but stops leaks .make sure you have all surfaces clean no debris stuck on them and the right thermostat that fits and the proper gaskets or o ring and a little avaition gasket glue should cure the problem . leaks require patience :) gl