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It is a pretty involving process to remove and replace the transmission on a Honda Odyssey and not recommended for the home DIY mechanic. Without a vehicle hoist or lift, it is a daunting task to undertake. This will be a brief description of what may need to be removed. The engine and transmission sits on a sub frame cradle. The engine will need to be held and supported by an engine support bar. The sub frame is then unbolted from the bottom. All things necessary must be removed before the sub frame can come out. For example, the rack and pinion bolts, sway bar, lower front ball joints, front and rear engine mounts, and any and all brackets and hard lines. After the sub frame is completely out, the flywheel bolts will have to be removed from the transmission. The cv-axles will have to be removed along with the transmission fluids being drained. Then the harness/connectors disconnected from the transmission, and then the bolts to the engine and bolts for the transmission mount. With a floorjack, the transmission can then be dropped out from underneath. Installation is the reversal.
by sub frame I`m guessing you mean the frame under the engine & transmission. if so you have to support the engine/trans with an engine brace and disconnect every thing that is attached to the sub frame then unbolt the frame bolts and lower the sub frame. note this is heavy weight so make sure you have help and something to support the frame when doing this.
Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se
To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.
Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
Bleed the power steering system.
Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.
call dealer with VIN number to see if your car is involved. ALso, please explain which bushing.
Safety Recall 98S36 - Certain 1986 - 1995 Taurus and Sable and 1988 - 1994 Continental Vehicles - Sub-Frame Rear Plate Nut Replacement
Certain 1986-1995 Taurus and Sable and 1988-1994 Continental vehicles that were originally sold or are currently registered in the following U.S. states and Canadian Provinces:
Connecticut Delaware District of Columbia Illinois Indiana
Iowa Kansas Kentucky Maine Maryland
Massachusetts Michigan Minnesota Missouri Nebraska
New Hampshire New Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania
Rhode Island Vermont Virginia West Virginia Wisconsin
Manitoba New Brunswick Newfoundland Nova Scotia
Ontario Prince Edward Island Quebec
REASONS FOR RECALL
The body mounts on the rear corners of the sub-frame that support the engine and transmission may separate. This can occur if the lower retainer plate of the mount or the retaining plate nut becomes severely corroded from long term exposure to road salts and retention of moisture in the mounts. This corrosion can weaken the retainer plate of the mount or the retaining plate nut severely enough to allow the bolt head to pull through the washer or out of the nut. Should both rear mounts separate, the rear of the sub-frame will drop and steering may suddenly become difficult. This could result in an accident.
To correct this condition, dealers will replace the attaching bolts, plate nuts and the reinforcement plates on the bottom of the sub-frame rear body mounts, on all affected vehicles.