Basically i just bought a 2000 model puma, starting off with the biting point on the clutch is very very high, and once managed to set off when i get to about 2000 revs, and you put your foot down a little to go the car revs round but is not moving in correspondance at all. Also the heaters on the car dont blow warm, and then the temperature gauge goes to hot!!! and when opening the bonnet (where the hoses come through to the dash) there is a bubbling noise and steaming (smoldering in a way). Is this common.... HELP!!!!!! (we now have no transport)
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Re: overheating and seems like clutch slipping!
Is there any water in the floor board? Does a oily film cover your windshield? If so your problem is your heater core. If not, then start with your coolant resivoir. Are you replacing coolant? You need to check the resivoir for leaks also the air tube from the radiator to the resivoir. If its clogged and not letting air flow then this will cause most of your problems. You also need to replace your thermostat. this is typical behavior of the thermostat going bad. check all your hoses including the ones coming from your heater core. Are they kinked in any way. Also, is there any blockage from the heater core. If its just clogged and letting water flow once its really hot. This can be tested after changing your thermostat. if the problem persists bipass the heater core and see if the problem still egsists. If it goes away change the heater core. Also how is the water pump. if you change the water pump, make them change the timing belt. other wise you will be paying for them to go back and change the timeing belt in a couple of months.
its apparent you have some other problems too, but lets deal with one at a time. See if this helps and get back with me. Then I can help with the others.
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Renew the clutch cable its a auto adjust mechanism and the cable comes with a plastic tie around the middle bit so fit the cable and then and only then remove the tie ,this is a difficult job and not easy for a weekend mechanic so be warned
The reason for the high biting point is simple. The clutch is made of 3 main components.
The pressure plate friction plate and the release bearing.
The more times clutch is depressed the concentric spring fingers wear in 2 ways . Firstly by good old metal to metal rubbing and secondly the concentric spring fingers don't return as far as a new one causing the release bearing or csc to adjust .
When the pressure plate concentric spring gingers wear they don't sit proud and require more pedal effort to depress. .
When they loose there spring like feature they require a greater distance from the release bearing. Or it has to travel further to depress them to lift The pressure plate and fee the friction plate from the lay shaft on which it is splined onto to give you drive once released.
The further back the bearing has to travel to allow the fingers to clamp the pressure plate to the friction plate . The more the clutch has become worn and unserviceable.
Self adjustment on hydraulic clutches are a hard one to gauge as you have no idea how far the piston has moved out to compensate for this wear . With a cable you can physically see the wear and adjust .
High biting points on any car are useless. You want a biting point to be 2 to 3 inches from the top and not nearly level with the brake pedal.
Anyway it seems apparent that Peugeot and Citroen both have high to almost no point at which they bite .
I myself would modify this as an engineer.
But it seems to be normal on these cats to have absolutely no biting point worth talking about.
My sisters 2012 206 1.4 is a very high biting point and I myself would not be happy with it . It gives u no indication of a worn clutch if its self adjusting.
Alll hydraulic clutches are self adjusting. So why are Peugeot and Citroens sooo high. Its ridiculous.
A very idiotic idea and I'm taking it back with her and I'm complaining. Hopefully I should get somewhere and ill update you all
if its a cable clutch,could be its stretched and you can adjust it.if its a hydraulic type it warns you when it starts to slip to replace it asap.would you believe ford do use both,depends on the factory where it was built.
check clutch master cylinder rod adjustment and pedal height should be just higher than brake pedal. could try and bleed system also.
most hydraulic clutch systems have high take up points, adjust master cylinder rod, check for free play at top after adjusting if all that is O.K. then clutch plate may be nearly worn out but not slipping at this stage.