Question about 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

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Passenger side fan stays on

The fan on the passenger side of my car stays on full blast even when the car is off. I am forced to pull the fuse everytime I am done driving. Is there any way to fix it or is there a fuse I can leave out all the time that won't disable my headlights?

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If the heater blower motor resistor failed then the heater will stay on full blast to keep your window clear, for safety. If the key is turned off and the fan still blows then I suspect you have an ignition switch problem. Main power comes from the key switch to feed the heater system. The plug at the ignition switch could be melted and making contact or an internal switch problem. The switch is located on the steering column under the plastic cover.Unplubbing the switch should help diagnos the problem.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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I have a 93 Saab and my vents aren't blowing heat. When I hit a bump in the road it may kick my heat on full blast for a couple of minutes, but as soon as I hit another bump, the heat kicks off. Also, the...


You don't say whether the fan starts and shuts off with the bumps, or the heat goes cold but the fan stays on. If it's the fan shutting off and coming back, you most likely have an intermittent connection to the blower motor somewhere at the fuse box, the fan speed control switch or the fan motor, or a loose ground connection at the fan motor. The fan motor is visible under the right side speaker grille on the dash. Make sure you re-connect the short black corrugated hose to the grill vent or you won't have defrosting on that side!

The air distribution rotary switch controls where the air goes. The fan speed switch controls exactly that: fan speed. the temp rotary switch controls the coolant temp into the heater core. You need to clarify what you mean by "Also, the dash controls for the vents won't allow me to turn up the power"

You might also have one or more of the following issues:
  1. is you vacuum tank properly connected and are there no leaks in the vacuum piping? The tank is in the driver side rear wheel well below the trunk deck on a convertible, and in the passenger side front fender area on the other cars. It's a white bottle with one or two hoses connected to it. If not properly on, your vacuum operated heater flaps won't move. Does the air distribution knob make sucking or hissing noises when you set it to different positions? If not, check the tank connections, look for vacuum line leaks, then suspect the vacuum valve behind the distribution knob.
  2. if the air distribution rotary switch makes noises when you change its setting, but nothing happens, then suspect the vacuum solenoids that open and close the heater flaps - could be a loose vacuum line or a defective vacuum solenoid
  3. the shaft connecting the temp control knob to the heater valve behind it may not be properly in place. This can be inspected, and adjusted if necessary, from the left side speaker/vent cutout on top of the dash. Make sure you re-connect the black flex hose to the air vent tube, or you'll get no defrosting afterwards!
  4. remember, the centre vents always blow cold air; a brilliant idea from Saab so the driver (and passenger) can get fresh air in the face and stay awake while the rest of the driver, passenger and car is toasty!

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If you've got the hydraulic fan, check to see that the solenoid at the power steering pump is plugged in. My 1993 3.0 had this happpen, and that's what was wrong. You have to pull the front passenger side wheel off to access the pump. Just stick your hand up in there and feel around. You'll find it. One way to check is to let the car idle and turn the a/c on full blast. You should hear the fan start to roar after a few seconds. If it doesn't, then check the solenoid wire. Worked for me!

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