I just got my car out of the shop, it had to be towed due to a broken tension pulley. Now it doesn't steer the same, it is very loose. When I took it back they said it was my rack, and nothing they did could have caused it. Could it have been the tow? How can I prove it. I do not trust the garage anymore...for various other reasons.
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Re: 2001 Hyundai xg300 Rack and Pinion
If improperly towed, rack can be damaged. Have another more reputable shop check it out. If they find damage that is not consistent with normal use, photograph everything and file a claim to get your money back. Bear in mind though that it is a machine and sometimes stuff happens by itself at inappropriate times. If you are not confident that the shop you are using is honest, go somewhere else where you are!!! good luck!
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It could be or the steering rack . The power steering system uses a CII type power steering pump (3A674) and a power rack and pinion steering gear.
If you never replaced either of these parts before suggest you take to a ASE certified repair shop .
Pump Flow and Pressure Tests
Before performing pump flow and pressure test, complete the following checks for conditions which could cause loss of power assist. Take corrective action if necessary.
Check power steering oil reservoir (3A697) for proper fluid level.
Check tires for correct air pressure.
Check drive belt (8620) for proper tension.
Check power steering pump (3A674) for correct model and vehicle application.
Check for correct size power steering pump pulleys (3A733) on power steering pump and engine.
Check entire system for damage. Replace parts, if necessary.
If the above items are correct, or have been corrected, and the loss of assist still exists, test power steering pump flow and pressure to determine whether the trouble is in the power steering pump , power rack and pinion steering gear or hoses.
Either your POWER STEERING pump has NO FLUID or your "Rack and Pinion" parts of your steering assembly is broken. Either way you might be best served by getting the car towed to a Auto Repair Shop that services your Make/Brand of automobile.....
Hello, I looked up some defects listed with the NHTSA for your car. There are a number of different defects listed, but the closest is a problem with the front strut spring rubbing on the strut cover. A problem like this should leave a shiny spot on the 2 parts that are rubbing.
I would look under the car to verify the rub marks as the problem. The other possibilities are a slipping Serpetine belt, or a rack and pinion unit that has a bent extension shaft, or a balljoint allowing a tire to pitch out too far in a turn.
The Serpetine belt will make a noise if the belt has stretched, the tension pulley is weak, or the steering pump is straining to operate the Rack and Pinion. A bent shaft on the Rack and Pinion can cause the steering pump to strain. You normally replace belts around 40,000 miles. Since this car is new to you, you can get both the belt and the Tensioner pulley at Autozone, Advance, or Oreillys, as well as other small parts stores.
Having those 2 new parts should be normal maintenance at 90,000 miles. If the noise persists, check for slop in the ball-joint and strut tower. The Rack and Pinion unit can be partially tested with hydraulic gauges by a technician.
The Focus is a fairly common car and many Independent shops have experience working on them. You can shop around for a diagnosis to compare their ideas to ours. Wear and tear items like any of the Parts I mentioned, can give you problems after 90,000 Miles.
I hope I have been very helpful in giving you some things to look at.
The rack is incorrectly installed in the chassis of the truck and its position isn't fixed - it shifts around the securing bolts. The vibration is caused by the pressure of the servo pump and the movement of the pinion: when the rack moves even by a little fraction by itself but the steering wheel doesn't follow it accordingly then the pinion is forced to rotate a tiny bit more than it should and that is enough to open the valves of the servo and the oil pressure presses on the rack moving it all the way to one side with force. When the movement stops because the rack has nowhere to go no more the pinion stops and the valve close, the oil pressure drops, the force on the rack drops and it tends to go back to its original position. That opens the valves again, but in the opposite direction so the rack is slammed on the opposite side. The process continues as long as the steering wheel is turned , generating that vibration.
This is a very dangerous situation, the car is not safe to be driven on any distance, at any speed. Tow it to a repair shop and have the steering mechanism in its entirety inspected, most likely it will be necessary to replace it completely.
Take the vehicle to an alignment shop take employees ASE Technicians. They will remove the stripped bolt and get you safely going again. Its hard to give you a price so I'm gonna go for the worse case scenario and you take it from there. New rack about $350,Labor including wheel alignment and balancing about $400. Total about $750. Now if your tires are bad they probably will not do alignment so figure about $100 for each new tire. Add that to $750. Remember this is the worse case.
If it doesn't have an automatic belt tensioner there will be an adjustment screw on either the alternator or power steering pump (possibly both if there are two belts). Loosen the two mounting bolts securing the accessory (ie: alt or p/s pump) and tighten the screw. Once adequate tension is on the belt tighten the mounting bolts.
Sometimes the adjustment is on a seperate pulley and not one of the accessories. If this is the case, loosen the center bolt on the pulley and tighten the adjustment screw. Once tight, tighten the center bolt.
If you have an automatic tensioner there are no adjustments to make the belt tighter.