On 2004 Mazda 6, How do you remove the lower caliper bolt?
I popped the cover off the top bolt and had the right size mm hex to remove but there did not appear to be an access to the head on the bottom bolt. I saw the rubber boot where it goes through but how do you back it out?
Re: On 2004 Mazda 6, How do you remove the lower caliper...
I wish i knew..still have all the brand new front and back rotors and pads inside the car. Couldn't get the caliper bracket lose. By the way, can anyone tell me the best way to remove those brackets? top and bottom bolts felt like they were welded on.
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If Theyre Lucas brakes there is located on the back side of the caliper two hex bolts I think 10 or 12 mm.
You have to remove these screws and pull the bolts out.
Should be one on top and one on bottom.
They might have a rubber plug that covers the hex indention in the screw. Theyre located by the accordion looking rubber boots behind the calipers
Park the Mazda6 on a flat paved surface. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires and open the hood. **** out half the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster and discard. Replace the master cylinder cap securely.
Break the lug nuts loose on the front tire, using the breaking bar and a 21-mm socket. Raise the left quarter panel first with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the left front frame rail. You can lift the right side too or just do one side at a time. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel when elevated.
Pry the two plastic caliper slide bolt covers off with the flathead screwdriver and remove the caliper slide bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off the pads and rotor with the screwdriver and support it to the coil spring with the bungee cord so it does not dangle by the brake hose. Compress the piston of the caliper inward using the C-clamp until the piston bottoms out in the caliper casing.
Remove the pads from the caliper anchor by prying them out gently with the screwdriver. Be sure to memorize how they were positioned in the anchor so you can replace them the same way in the event you're not replacing the pads as well. Remove the caliper anchor bolts using the ratchet and a socket. They're going to be extremely tight, so be prepared. Remove the caliper anchor.
Locate the retaining screw on the hub face of the rotor. Use the impact screwdriver in the reverse position with a Phillips head bit and strike the end of the screwdriver with the hammer. Remove the screw. Remove the rotor. If it is stubbornly stuck to the hub, strike it a few times with force on the plated fins of the rotor.
Spray the new rotor with brake clean and be generous to clean off the oil coating that new rotors have on them so they will not rust from condensation in the air while they were in storage. Clean both sides and wipe dry with a shop rag. Place the new rotor on the hub and make sure to line up the retaining screw hole in the rotor to the hub. Replace and tighten the retaining screw.
Replace the caliper anchor and bolts and tighten tightly. Replace the pads into the caliper anchor in the same manner you removed them. Replace the caliper over the pads and rotor and replace and tighten the caliper slide bolts. Replace the plastic covers.
Replace the wheel and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts so they are flush. Lower the Mazda6 and torque the lug nuts alternately with the torque wrench, set at 80 foot-pounds and the 21-mm socket. If you raised both sides of the front axle, wait until you've replaced the right side rotor, otherwise repeat Step 2 through Step 8 for the right side.
Pump the foot brake pedal until it feels normal to restore the hydraulic pressure back to the compressed caliper pistons. Release the parking brake.
Check and add new DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder and replace the cap securely. Close the hood. Remove the wheel chock and test drive
You'll need a T-55 torx bit to remove the rear caliper pins/bolts. You can try using an insert style bit...one that removes from the socket or perhaps purchase a replacement bit (one that would be used in a cordless drill/driver.) The one I used had a 5/16" hex shank. Like you said, there is very little clearance between the head and the leaf springs, which won't allow room for a breaker bar and torx bit. So using a 5/16" wrench, ( I'd recommend a 6 point box wrench to prevent slipping or rounding off.) I was able to loosen the bolt. Or plan B is to remove the caliper mounting bracket which is held on by two 21 or 22 mm hex head bolts. Which would have to be removed to remove the brake rotor.
you need to remove the caliper by removing the brackets, not hard just remove 3 bolts. 1-remove the lower caliper bolt, 2- flip the caliper up and out of the upper bolt and then move it aside. and then remove two 17 or 19 mm bolt for bracket.
To remove the front caliper, you must pop pop off the anti rattle spring, pay close attention as to how it attaches so you can reinstall it, then pop off the hex bolt covers on the rear of the caliper, then using a 7mm hex driver, loosen the two hex bolts that fasten the caliper to the caliper bracket, and pry the caliper away from the rotor from the bottom first then slide it off.