Question about 1989 Chevrolet K1500

6 Answers

No power to the heater/ac control of our 89 chevy silverado

The heater quit blowing warm air for a couple of days and then lost all power to the heat/ac control panelI have the same problem....92 k1500 with 350. No lights on to the unit in the dash. Checked with circuit tester, and have power to 3 or 4 wires, but no lights. Got a used one from a u pull, but it didnt have a recirc button like mine. Harness matched up, but no joy on the power with it too. Dont know if it was toast as well, or if just not compatable.

Is there a way to test the unit before i try to get another one, or any info on what needs to have power on the harness or even which conectors to bridge just to get an on/off switch for a fan setting, any fan setting, and the defroster? I can deal with the cold, but having to pull over and scrape the inside of the windshield due to breathing in the cab sucks!

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  • LDESTRUKTO Feb 03, 2009

    I clicked this specific problem, cause i had the same problem, though not in the same year...I have a 1992, and unfortunately there is not rod or spindle for me to reattach behind the glove box. I posted the wrong year for the premiem service....sorry....first time user.....so....same problem, just that it is a 1992 model 1500 w 350 and the AC/Heat control does have a recirc button.

  • LDESTRUKTO Feb 03, 2009

    i have checked all the fuses, under the dash, and checked the harness with circuit tester, NOT a volt/ohm meter, and i do have power in a few places to the harness. A replacement controler is either a gamble getting a used one, or expensive as hell from dealer, and even expensive on ebay....wanting to get a lil advise before i make another leap, espeicailly since i did get a used one from a junkyard already, that also does not power up.....could be a bad used box as well, but just want a few ideas before trying again, or a way to test the control unit itself

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6 Answers

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Your Heter control is probably not defective - since the second one you swapped in had the same result.

Please check your fuse panel layout for a heater relay.

This may be your culprit - as the power is AT the controller, however the relay is not kicking in to tell it to come on.

Since the lights are out as well - that is indicative of a fuse or relay.

If the blower motor is not defective - you can install a temporary (or in your case may be permanent) toggle switch. Connect a length of wire from the battery or switched power (fuse it appropriately) to the switch, then out to the motor (+)... and the (-) to a chassis ground - and you can turn the fan on any time you like :D.

DC motors will not be harmed wiring backwards if you cannot determine the polarity of the wires. It will spin, however if there is no air from the vents - simply reverse the wires.

Thanks for usinf FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated!

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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its necessary to replace the unit.but check out this on your old unit before replacing.hope this helps....Some heater/defrost controls are mechanically controled and some are vacuum actuated. Look under the passenger side dash and see if you can locate the means by which the flapper is controlled. Normally the flapper just redirects the heated air from the rotating fan to eith go out the vents or up to the vents in the defrost. Most mechanic units (attached by cables from the dash control unit) do not break or wear out. The vacuum operated ones sometimes the small vacuum hoses that attach to a solenoid come off or get brittle and loose their seal against the plastic tips. If you can work the dash controls while you look under the dash and try to see how and why the flapper is not moving, then maybe you can ascertain how the flapper is actuated. Last resort os to try to remove the in dash control unit. It will either have the mechanical cables attached or vacuum lines attached to it so be careful when removing. Once you control the flapper in the air box, then you norally can redirect the air to where it needs to be. Look for a cracked vacuum line by the master cylinder. There are several that interconnect which feed through the firewall and into the dash that supply all of the dash vacuum. 

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, the nest approach would be with the use of a voltmeter and/or a 12 test light, the purpose of which is to check for the presence/absence of B+12. You may want to start again with the fuse box and proceed to the connectors. Of particular interest would be the resistor and the wires/connectors leading to it. It would normally be installed in the engine bay/firewall and its function is to supply varying voltage depending on the speed of the blower set to.

Pls postback updates. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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Hi! Check for any loose wire or ground wire disconnected.See also if any fuse blown.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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Check the fuse first.


If it is not a blown fuse, then you will need to gain access to heater core to check wirings.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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The problem is behind the glove box. Remove all the things from the glove box and then you will see two rubber tabs holdin the glove box in place. Push the glove box a little forward and then you can bend the rubber tabs forward allowing the glove box to fall forward. Now with a flash light look almost straight back and you will see a white spindle with a metal top. Also you will see a long thin rod with a loop on the end. What has happend is this rod has come off the spindle. The fix is to place it back on the spindle. First you follow the rod back to where it screws into a plastic piece. Carefully pull the rod out of this piece(it comes straight up with out unscrewing it) Make sure you note where the rod was when you pulled it out of the plastic piece. Now you can loop the rods loop around the spindle piece past the little notch on the spindle piece. Once this is done reconnect the rod to the plastic screw piece you removed it from and this fixes your problem. If you just put the loop back over the spindle with out having it go over the little notch on the spindle, you will have to perform this procedure every couple of weeks.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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CHOPSHOP317
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Heater/AC control with no power

YOU NEED TO CHECK YOUR FUSES! EVEN IF IT DOESN'T LOOK BURNT RE-PLACE IT ANYWAY!
IF THAT DOESNT SOLVE IT YOUR GOING TO NEED TO CHECK THE BLOWER MOTOR UNDER THE HOOD TO THE PASS SIDE OF THE FIREWALL- MAKE SURE IT IS PROPERLY GROUNDED & pluged IN.. IF ALL ELSE FAIL'S= RE-PLACE BLOWER MOTOR...

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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2000 Toyota Avalon: No heat on Passenger Side?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2000-toyota-avalon-no-heat-on-passenger.html


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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/02/heater-blows-cold.html

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http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/hot-air-on-drivers-side-vents-only.html

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/temperature-gauge-does-not-move-and-no.html

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1992 Toyota Camry: A/C Control light Flashing and A/C not Blowing Cold?

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No lights/power To heater/ac control w Recirculation button 92 Chevy 1500 The heater quit blowing warm air for a couple of days and then lost all power to the heat/ac control panel have the same...


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