Question about 1992 Saab 900

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Clutch fluid leak

No clutch and dont know where resivoir bottle is, open bleeder nipple and no fluid came out when pumped clutch pedal

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  • vibugdog Feb 18, 2009

    car sit for a couple of days then no clutch,when i put in fluid its ok for a couple of days . 1988 saab 900


  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith May 11, 2010

    i would think that it would be located to the right of the brake fluid resevoir... basically on the inside of the engine compartment on the firewall outside of where your clutch pedal would come out



    Robert

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  • 51 Answers

The 900 uses the same reservoir for both brake and clutch; it's in front of the firewall on the side of the pedals, immediately visible when you open the hood. Milky plastic, with a screw top; max and min levels marked by lines.

clutch leaks can be at the slave cylinder in the clutch, which will likely cause slipping clutch; at the master cylinder, which may show as fluid inside the car; or in line between them (runs from master cylinder at firewall to front of engine, where the clutch is located).

Look for leaks on ground and relate to location above leak in engine bay

Saabreur

Posted on May 30, 2009

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HOW TO BLEED A CLUTCH ON A RENAULD MEGAN SPORT 2007


Locate the clutch slave cylinder. It will be on the joint of the gearbox and the engine. On it wull be a bleeder nipple with a rubber dust cover on it. Remove the cover, slip a ring spanner of the correct size over the nipple and fit the bleeder hose. Fill the clutch reservoir and have an assistant depress the clutch pedal fully. Open the bleeder nipple slowly and watch for fluid and bubbles to come out. Close the bleeder nipple and let the assistant release the clutch pedal, depress the pedal again and open the nipple. Do this about four times or until no more bubbles are observed coming out of the pipe. Secure the bleeder nipple, remove the pipe and spanner and replace the dust cover. Fill the reservoir and test the clutch. If it does not work properly more work on the system is required.

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Bleeding the clutch after slave removal on Golf 4 1.6


Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



Complements of this site

Mar 11, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

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How do i go about bleeding the clutch on a1994 chevrolet 3500.


Its bascily the same princable as bleeding brakes However you need to look for leaks in differant stops . With the clutch you the resivior that you fill with fluid then the master cylinder witch is attached to the brake pedal with a rod to push it in when you apply the brakes and then the slave cylinder that is located near the clutch disc and pressure plate and flywheel on the bell houseing . The slave cylinder it where the bleeder is located and has a fitting much like a calipar or wheel cylinder that needs to be opened and closed during the bleeding process to let the air out open pedal depressed and closed when the pedal is released so the air can't get back in the system . Air is compresable fluid is not . Look for fluid leaks inside the cab of the vehicle near the master cylinder because if fluid can get out then air is getting in the system and you will never be able to bleed it completly You will need a clear peice of plastic tubeing that fits over the bleeder put the other end in a bottle with some fluid in it already have some one push down on the clutch pedal while you have a wrench on the bleeder to open and close it as required when the air bubbles stop comeing out the end of the tubeing that is in the bottle with the fluid you are done bleeding the system Good luck its not that hard you just need two people to do it and make sure the bleeder is closed when the pedal is travaling up or you will **** air back into the system

Mar 05, 2011 | Chevrolet 3500 Cars & Trucks

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I replaced the slave cylinder and there still isnt no pressure


Did you bench bleed the cylinder prior to installation?

Feb 27, 2011 | 1996 Saturn SL

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HOW DO YOU BLEED BRAKES FOR A 1999 BUICK LESABRE


Same as a clutch. Get a couple bottles of dot3 fluid, a small crescent wrench and someone else's leg. Take off cap to reservoir and fill if needed. Have other person pump the brake pedal and then hold to the floor. You open the bleeder nipple (on brake assembly) until it stops dripping/squirting. Close bleeder. Fill reservoir if needed. Repeat 3 times. Do other side same way. Put cap back on reservoir. Drive and test.

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I cant bleed the clutch on my renault laguna 2 52 plate it has a plastic bleeding system I have tried everything but with no success Les


You need to connect the pressure bleeder to the brake master cylinder resrvoir,then bleed the clutch through from the nipple on the slave cylinder.If the nipple is not of the unscrewable type,you need to release the pipe from it's clip where the nipple is and then this will allow the air to escape and you end up with fluid with no air bubbles in it coming out of the nipple.If the nipple is of the more normal type,you need to follow the same procedure,you just undo the nipple half a turn and this will have the same effect.

It's best to connect a piece of small pipe with a container to collect the fluid in on to the nipple as you could contaminate the clutch plate with the waste fluid,and if your using a pressure bleeder it will save you getting squirted with brake fluid when you release the nipple!.

If you have someone else that can help you,don't use the pressure bleeder and just get the person to sit in the car and work the clutch pedal up and down whilst you open and close the bleed nipple.You follow the procedure,clutch pushed down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up,clutch pedal down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up and so on a so forth until no more air comes out and you have a steady stream of fluid.

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Manual shifter wont go into gear after start up possibly broken


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I just installed a new clutch master cylinder and was not able to bleed the system however; I continued to pump the clutch many, many, many times. Simply moving fluid and eventually I bagan to get a little pedal back. I then figured that if I parked the car on a downward slope the resivoir would be the tallest component and residual air may rise up ward. This is only a theory and I haven't proven its effectiveness yet. So far, only a little pedal.

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im a little confused re clutch replacement normally in order to start a manual transmission car the clutch pedal needs to be pressed down all the way before the car will turnover . as you say it will start but you need to push down clutch am i right? but when you try to put it into gear grinding ?wont go in to gear yes is this whats hapinin?ok the way that these clutches work nowadays is that there is a system similar to brake system there is a resivoir for the oil and a slave cylinder that pushes the clutch throwout leaver so that the gears can be changed did you see a small cylinder that pushes against the clutch lever? does it have a hose coming from it ? this system needs to be bleed just like the brakes on your car . find the resivoir small resivoir open lid and fill with brake fluid now go under car and find slave cylinder it will be somewhere near the transmission and bellhousing there will be a hose attached there will also be a bleed nipple attached you need to open this a few turns and let it drip dont press clutch pedal when bleed screw is open it will bring air into system , you want to remove all the air in the system so get a friend to go into car and pump clutch pedal then hold it to the floor while its being held down you open bleed screw until clutch pedal hits the floor tighten bleed screw then tell friend to pump up again do this 5 or 6 times making shure clutch fluid level doesnt drop down too far keep topping it up with the fluid that squirts out while bleeding this way you dont waste fluid as well as keeping fluid from hitting the ground .anyhow after trying this slave cylinder bleeding proceedure .try to see if car will go into gear . also see that there is no adjustment on slave cylinder . also i hope that you put the clutch facing the correct direction flywheel side towards flywheel . let me know how you do with this project

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