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Re: clutch fluid leak
The 900 uses the same reservoir for both brake and clutch; it's in front of the firewall on the side of the pedals, immediately visible when you open the hood. Milky plastic, with a screw top; max and min levels marked by lines.
clutch leaks can be at the slave cylinder in the clutch, which will likely cause slipping clutch; at the master cylinder, which may show as fluid inside the car; or in line between them (runs from master cylinder at firewall to front of engine, where the clutch is located).
Look for leaks on ground and relate to location above leak in engine bay
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Yes all 92-95 civics have a hydraulic clutch system. it starts at the pedal. Pedal pulls a plunger in the clutch master cylinder which is found bolted through the firewall under the hood on the drivers side. The master cylinders resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower and connected to the master cylinder with a rubber hose. A line from the master cylinder runs along the firewall tirades the passenger side wheel then turns to the front of the car and is connected with a fitting to a rubber hose. The rubber hose runs to your clutch slave cylinder. The slave pushes the clutch arm.
Your clutch pedal is staying on the floor because there is no back pressure to push it back up. You have air in your clutch system. First find out why (find leak or just top up clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if no leaks) then bleed your clutch. If your clutch line is rusted there is a coupler mid way in the line on the firewall. Will save you from removing the whole line maby. And there is no need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder.
My guess is your slave cylinder is leaking. It right on the front of the transmission. Pull back the rubber boot over the end of the slave cyl. and check for fluid leaks. The bleed screw is on top of the slave cyl. Find/fix leak, fill resivoir, pump clutch 10 times then HOLD. Open bleeder screw, watch for fluid and air sputtering out or just air. CLOSE valve, release clutch. REPEAT until clutch works keeping resivoir topped up. You may also open bleeder screw and pump clutch to get fluid into the system before you do the bleed process. Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint and is not very nice on your skin or in your eyes so be carefull with it.
There may also be an off chance your pedal sticks because the clutch itself is badly broken but it's not really very likely.
Locate the clutch slave cylinder. It will be on the joint of the gearbox and the engine. On it wull be a bleeder nipple with a rubber dust cover on it. Remove the cover, slip a ring spanner of the correct size over the nipple and fit the bleeder hose. Fill the clutch reservoir and have an assistant depress the clutch pedal fully. Open the bleeder nipple slowly and watch for fluid and bubbles to come out. Close the bleeder nipple and let the assistant release the clutch pedal, depress the pedal again and open the nipple. Do this about four times or until no more bubbles are observed coming out of the pipe. Secure the bleeder nipple, remove the pipe and spanner and replace the dust cover. Fill the reservoir and test the clutch. If it does not work properly more work on the system is required.
First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.
Firstly you will need:
7mm spanner - front bleed nipple 11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple 9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women 2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure
Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.
Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.
Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.
Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.
With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.
Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.
Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.
Its bascily the same princable as bleeding brakes However you need to look for leaks in differant stops . With the clutch you the resivior that you fill with fluid then the master cylinder witch is attached to the brake pedal with a rod to push it in when you apply the brakes and then the slave cylinder that is located near the clutch disc and pressure plate and flywheel on the bell houseing . The slave cylinder it where the bleeder is located and has a fitting much like a calipar or wheel cylinder that needs to be opened and closed during the bleeding process to let the air out open pedal depressed and closed when the pedal is released so the air can't get back in the system . Air is compresable fluid is not . Look for fluid leaks inside the cab of the vehicle near the master cylinder because if fluid can get out then air is getting in the system and you will never be able to bleed it completly You will need a clear peice of plastic tubeing that fits over the bleeder put the other end in a bottle with some fluid in it already have some one push down on the clutch pedal while you have a wrench on the bleeder to open and close it as required when the air bubbles stop comeing out the end of the tubeing that is in the bottle with the fluid you are done bleeding the system Good luck its not that hard you just need two people to do it and make sure the bleeder is closed when the pedal is travaling up or you will **** air back into the system
Thn the problem is the clutch master cylinder, it should build up pressure, ok try out this, remove the pipe which is going to the slave cylinder either from the clutch master cylinder or at the clutch slave cylinder and get someone to pump the pedal while you block the pipe and see if there is fluid thrown out with pressure.If there is pressure there thn fit back the pipe and refill the reserviour wth brake fluid and open the bleeding nipple at the slave cylinder let some fluid pour out and tighten it and thn pump the pedal and retry bleeding.
If there is no pressure at the pipe thn its the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps!
I just installed a new clutch master cylinder and was not able to bleed the system however; I continued to pump the clutch many, many, many times. Simply moving fluid and eventually I bagan to get a little pedal back. I then figured that if I parked the car on a downward slope the resivoir would be the tallest component and residual air may rise up ward. This is only a theory and I haven't proven its effectiveness yet. So far, only a little pedal.