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Sticky clutch pedal

Clutch pedal is sometimes sticky and slow engaging and disengaging 93% of the time, especially slowing down to stop.....

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SOURCE: Clutch pedal won't disengage clutch

make sure fluid is full... then pump the pedal with it NOT RUNNING as many times really fast as you can.. try it after that, if it works then you need either a clutch MASTER cyliner and/or a SLAVE cylinder.. MOST likely being the slave cylinder. if the pumping action doesnt cause it to disengage then you have a burnt out clutch. The system is hydralic and takes regular DOT3 brake fluid in the small resevoir under the hood next to the brake master cylinder...
The slave cylinder being bad would mean you have to removed the transmission and install a new slave cylinder... thats the most common issue with those around that mileage...

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 566 Answers

SOURCE: GEARBOX WONT GO INTO GEAR

hi from uk could you please give a little more info ? what make/model car ? has this problem occured suddenly? has car been layed up off road some time prior to this unable to select gears ? this problem sounds very much like the clutch drive plate is either stuck to flywheel hence question above ? or it is sticking on primary/spigot shaft for some reason and failing to disengage drive to g/box? how does clutch pedal feel ? you might try selecting 2nd gear with clutch fully pressed and h/brake on then try starting engine if engine starts ?runs then put slight revs on and slip clutch a few times this may work if plate is sticking? if you come back with update may be able to advise further

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 saab 93. Slow acceleration out of gears, especially first.

Car picks up speed if you accelerate slowly, but the engine races, with minimal speed increase of the vehicle, when the throttle pedal is pushed harder? I'm not aware of the typical layout of the Saab, so while these things below are what I would suggest you look at... Not all will apply. Note that if the clutch plate is worn or otherwise slipping, the more you race the engine, the sooner will you burn off any remaining clutch life. Take things easy 'till you have a solution..... On any vehicle, this is a classic sign of a worn, damaged, or out of adjustment clutch. Or Possibly oil contamination from a leaking crankshaft rear oil seal. It causes a glaze on the linings of the driven plate and loses friction. Or The clutch pedal is not returning to it's normal rest position when released. Check for objects trapped between the pedal and the vehicle surfaces. Or The cable (if used)may be binding, thus the clutch doesn't fully return. It may be out of adjustment. Check for adjusting points at the cable ends. If no slack exists in the cable, it appears as though the clutch is worn. The clutch may be self adjusting. It's possible for self adjusters to seize. Or The hydraulic system (if used),has sticking cylinders. You may be able to clean and reuse the cylinders....

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: BRAKE PEDAL JUDDER ON SLOWING DOWN

Most likely you have one or both front disks warped. To reduce weight, disks have gotten thinner and warp fairly easily from heat buildup.
If the disk(s) are not too badly worn or too thin, it may be possible to resurface them to improve the flatness but in most cases, it makes better sense to replace them.
I would check Brembo to see if they make replacement disks for your car; I have had good service from them, better than OEM disks.

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

  • 369 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal judder on 1996 audi a4 when slowing

Have the rotors turned or the discs cut means the same thing either way but yes your disc.

Posted on Dec 02, 2009

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1 Answer

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