Good evening guys, just wondering if you can help?
I have a F reg 89' Suzuki Santana SJ410.
It has mud tyres but I think this is it.
If I select 4wd, either 4WDH or 4WDL, it only seems to drive the rear wheels!(I have tried this on a steep grass verge) I have locked the manual front hub locks by turning them to the 'lock' position and have shifted the small transfer lever to 4wd (either 4wdH or 4wdL) and as above only the rear wheels drive.
Could this be a problem with the transfer box or the manual hub locks???
Is there a comman problem that relates to any of the above??
Any help will be very much appreciated, many thanks Max
Your sami sounds as if the either the lockers, the axles or the transfer box are not doing too good...
An open locker or a broken axle will steal all the power going to the front of the car.
A transfer problem is also a good reason for this kind of thing, but this usualy happens with some noise, so you'd probably know if the transfer was bad. The front axle hub a.k.a. the diff can also be bad.
I'd take off both lockers - 12 screws on each and a circlip (make sure they are in the free position ). You can now see the axles themselves and try to rotate them manually. While engaged in 4wd - they should not move more than a 1/4 turn. If both move free your diff or transfer box are bad, depending whether you see the front driveshaft moving or not. If drvshft is moving - transfer is bad. If not - the diff is gone.
If only one is free - your axle is broken.
Not a biggie to diagnose but one hell of a pita to fix... I'd advise you to head to the shop and and have a pro fix it.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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check the road surface you are on when you select the 4wd button. If you are on any surface that will not allow tyre slip ( hard surface ) then you will experience a torque wind up in the drive train that will cause your problems. 4wd should only be used on slippery surfaces - mud ,snow, ice, gravel-- and should be engaged at rest if on hard surface
check for 4wd actuator problem Check for power activation and check for vacuum line connection. Lastly check that the hubs are correctly selected as if one side has not properly engaged it will feel like there is no 4WD
I'm not sure if you are suffering 'wind-up'.Does your car seem to suffer a huge loss of power? If so, then try jacking up one wheel off the road. Does the wheel spin around once it leaves the road surface? If so, then you just suffered 'wind-up'. That vehicle is not meant to stay in 4 wheel drive if not on mud or slippery surfaces. This will eventually cause catastrophic failure of the transmission, usually resulting in a smashed transfer box chain. Once any 'wind-up' has been dealt with having released it from jacking one wheel off the ground, then select 2wd and road-test the vehicle. It should now be fine.
If the vehicle still won't deselect from 4wd, then you will need to check the transfer box for fault. The transfer box and gearbox oil should regularly be checked for any signs of oil cross-contamination. There is an oil seal between these two boxes, and which keeps their respective oil from leaking through to each other's boxes. If your transfer box oil is reddish in colour, or shows a large excess of oil when removing the oil top up bung, then you likely have an oil seal issue.
Typical issues on that particular model are:
Transfer box chain failure. Transfer box [internal] oil seal leakage.
Other things to keep an eye on with that particular model are: Power steering pump oil seal. Front wheel bearings. (increased failure when fitting wide profile tyres). Steering track rods and track rod ends.(increased failure rate when fitting wide profile tyres)
BE AWARE! Easy entry/break-in method: Remove right, rear light cluster with philips screwdriver. Using bobby pin or short wire, randomly short circuit visible wires within connector block until central locking automatically opens door locks.
Disconnecting the 4x4 will lead to a small improvement but not as dramatic as has been suggested. All that is achieved using the idea mentioned is to prevent the driver from selecting 4WD.
It won't make any greater difference than by just leaving the vehicle in 2WD via the usual transmission controls: you'll still have the additional mechanical weight to lug around, the additional frictional and aerodynamic drag of the unused mechanism and on some surfaces the inability to engage 4WD will actually increase fuel consumption.
Total removal of the additional components to permanently convert to 2WD plus smaller wheels and tyres, a smaller capacity engine and a lowered suspension will make a real difference but will be far more expensive than simply buying a proper 2WD vehicle with a smaller engine. You'd also ruin the resale value of your Blazer. Don't forget that if you drop all the gas guzzling extras, you won't need a larger engine to haul it everywhere to start with, so your best bet is to just trade in for a road going vehicle with the interior room that you need.
You'll also make a large saving in fuel by driving appropriately, maintaining correct tyre type (road tyres for road use, mud and snow tyres for the mucky stuff) and correct tyre pressures and not permanently carrying around heavy loads, roof racks or roof boxes unless absolutely necessary. Regular vehicle servicing can also make a large difference to mpg.