Access to torque converter to drive plate bolts is kicking my but
1993 Nissan pathfinder v6, 4wd. automatic tranny. Trying to gain access to rear main seal. Can't figure out how to access torque converter/drive plate bolts. Manual says to remove access cover but engine oil pan covers front of tranny. Please don't tell me I need to drop oil pan!
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Re: Access to torque converter to drive plate bolts is...
Your only option is to pull the tranny and replace the seal - also check the condition of the end of the crankshaft where the seal rides for excessive gouging or the new seal my not seal without first repairing or replacing the crank, this is rare however and a new seal should do the trick.
I recomend shopping around as the seal only costs about $25 and the major cost is removing the engine or transmission to replace it (wich ever is easier sometimes the motor is, but anyway maybe you can find a local friend or family member who could R&R the transmission or motor for you at a good price id say around 500-800 would be more than fair.
Look around you would be suprised when a shop is slow what kind of deals they will give out just to get some work.
It's not bad job, just time consuming. Need a way to hold tranny up while pulling parts. Have a chilton or haynes manual.
Basically though, you need to remove transmission or be able to move it back far enough... remove flywheel from crankshaft end... unbolt and remove rear main seal retainer... replace seal and gasket... reverse procedure.
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Where is the torque converter? Transmission installed in car?
If so there is often an access plate on the bottom of the bell housing to get the bolts off with an open end or box wrench. If the access plate is on the top you often have to pull the engine/transmission, release the TC bolts, then split the trans from the engine to replace the torque converter.
If you've broken the bolts and there are stubs in the TC you can try to drill them out and use an EZ-out bolt remover. OR just replace the TC.
REmove the inspection plate at the front of the tranny and inspect the flex drive plate . IT will have the teeth for the starter motor , 3 or 4 bolts for the torque converter and 6 bolts that attatch it to the crank. ou will probably find cracks in the plate. If so you will have to remove tranny and replace plate.
The torque converter is attached to the flywheel or in this case possibly a starter ring gear plate attached to the rear of the crankshaft. There should be between 4 and 6 bolts to remove it. It is separate from the transmission. Please rate this answer, thanks.
You will need to remove the transmission and (transfer case )if equipped to gain access to the flywheel. Once the tranny is out of the way you will be looking at the flywheel. If it is an automatic you will need to remove the torque converter bolts from the flywheel before tranny removal. Also if it is an automatic be sure to get the torque converter to engage the front pump in the tranny when you reinstall.
It is hard to get to them, some people make wrenches out of old wrenches that fit in tiny places, etc, but if you have a book, and you should, if you got this far, there is a spot to access these bolts from, one at a time, either up on the right or by removing the starter. Don't strip them, and don't let the torque converter fall out when you pull the tranny. (if it is auto) You will have oil all over the place. You might have to pull a few spark plugs to take the compression off the engine so it will spin easier.
hi, if you have a manual gearbox then you dont have a torque converter a torque converter is what changes the gears in an automatic gearbox as your is manual all you will have inside your gearbox is a pressure plate a clutch plate and a thrust bearing witch operates the clutch when you press the pedal down. The only thing you need to line up on a manual box is when you have fitted the new clutch you need to have a tool that holds the clutch plate central so that when you tighten the bolts up on the pressure plate the clutch stays central if you dont do this you wont be able to get the gearbox back onto the engine as the spline from the gearbox wont be able to go through the center of the clutch into the engine.
You can make or use you own tool to hold the clitch dead center as long as its a good fit and about the same size as the spline, so once you have the new clutch in and the pressure plate loosely bolted on you can still move the clutch around behind the pressure plate now right in the center their is a hole in the pressure plate and the clutch plate this is where the tool needs to be put so that the clutch plate remains dead center whilst you tighten the pressure plate up this will then make sure that the spline on the gearbox lines up properly not doing this will make it impossible to get the gearbox on properly.
Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok
there is an inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing you must remove to get to the torque converter bolts. you must rotate the fly wheel to access all the bolts. they make a tools for this, but a flat head screw driver works just as good, it just takes a little longer.
this is an older rear wheel drive car you don't need to remove motor, i would along with these instructions get a repair manual (Haynes) for reference purposes, jack up the front of the car , support on frame with jack stands, remove battery cables, remove starter, all electrical plugs on tranny, then remove access panel for torque converter bolts located at lower front of bell housing, after access plate removal rotate torque converter to the point where you can not only unscrew converter bolts but also remove drain plug to drain converter. To stop converter from turning during removal of nuts you must lodge a large screwdriver between the flywheel gear teeth and the engine block at an appropriate location ( at starter location usually) after removing all torque convert.nuts jack up slightly or support trans with trolley jack and 1 ft length of wood under pan, proceed to remove all bell housing bolts except for the top one, remove that one last after removing the drive shaft of course, also make sure you remove the transmission crossmember after jacking up trans slightly. the idea is to allow the tranny to only be attached at the end of removal by the one top bell housing bolt and supported by the trolly jack and two bye four or better 3/4 in thick 1 ft X 1ft plywood board after unscrewing the last bolt the trans. can be pulled back away from the motor and lowered down. the installation is reversal but aligning the torque converter to engine can be problematic sometimes (patience and strength) you can do it!